- Fire Extinguisher 101
While looking at the other threads on fire extinguishers on this forum, I thought I would start a new one, to offer up to date information (2016) and to answer questions that previous threads have asked.
I collect, process and sell scrap metal as a side job. I have also sold and recharged fire extinguishers. I have around thirty years of fire service experience. That is my "credentials" on this subject.
Fire extinguishers are a highly regulated item, as most types of them are pressurized vessels (CO2, nitrogen as propellant, etc.). National Fire Protection Standard 10 (NFPA 10), is the code adopted by most, if not all states and other jurisdictions, for the installation and servicing of fire extinguishers.
There are several parts of NFPA 10, that are somewhat pertaining to scrap. The first is, that all extinguishers manufactured from 1984 and before are no longer usable. If you have any extinguishers that you come into your operation, they are most likely 1984 and before. They are scrap. They cannot be resold. Fire extinguisher servicing businesses will not service or recharge 1984 and before. Also, any extinguisher that has had its manufacturer go out of business. That means many extinguishers are now condemned. The largest fire extinguisher company GENERAL, formerly located in Illinois, went out of business around 1991. Their certification rating has been now revoked, as they no longer have a parts source for servicing these extinguishers. You will most likely see a lot of General brand fire extinguishers deemed scrap.
Older extinguishers are usually valuable to collectors and scrap dealers. The older ones, usually 1969 and before were brass, copper, stainless steel, etc. material (cylinder/handles). Some collectors will collect certain types (brands, etc.). You can list them on fleabay, etc. to find buyers. Certain brands (American LaFrance, etc.) are worth more, as they are regarded collectible in fire buff organizations. Look at fleabay and you can get a good look at their collectible value. In 1969, Soda acid, cartridge type and other types of fire extinguishers were deemed prohibited. Most of those types of extinguishers were scrapped over the years, but those not scrapped yet, were placed in safekeeping in basements, garages, etc. for their collectible value.
Safety! Consider all extinguishers pressurized, until known otherwise! Having recharged extinguishers, I can attest to faulty pressure gauges. You want to de-pressurize the cylinder before tackling it and taking it apart. Also, dry (chemical) powder types are messy. A dust mask (N95 or better) should be the minimum, when dumping the powder. To find out the powder in a cylinder, read the instruction decal/plate on the cylinder.
There are several types of powder in dry chemical types:
1) Sodium Bicarbonate, which is found in BC rated extinguishers is essentially baking soda. It has a anti-caking additive added, so it is not edible. You can "recycle" this powder, by using it around your garage or shop for battery acid spills, etc. If you have large amounts to dispose of, you can put it in sealed bags, label it and give out to friends for their garage or shop. As long as it stays dry, it is usable for battery acid spill neutralizing.
2) Other powders (Monoammonium Phospate, etc.). You will have to identify these types and look online for their MSDS sheets for proper disposal. Most of these powders are dangerous to water supplies, so disposing of these in or near water sources are prohibited. Some are considered fertilizer and can be dumped on fields for fertilizer. As in any case, do not dump large concentrations in the same area, you will get "fertilizer burn" from having too much concentration in the soil. If the MSDS recommends it, spread it thinly over a large field area. Some types of powder will have to go to the dump.
Word to the wise: Fire extinguisher servicing businesses will NOT take your used powder. They are prohibited, due to the contaminants and moisture that outside sources of powder may bring. Cross mixing of dry powder types can result in corrosion of the (pressurized) cylinder. Therefore, you will have to find a way to dispose of the powder, through recycling or to the landfill. You can offer your local fire department and/or fire recruit training academy, the opportunity to discharge these extinguishers at their training/open house sessions. Once they are done discharging these cylinders, you can retrieve them to scrap them. Check with them to see if they are interested.
Other extinguisher agents:
1) CO2: The CO2 gas can be expelled outdoors. Do NOT discharge at a metal surface (dumpster, etc.) as you will have shock/arc from the static. A lot of older cylinder heads were brass, so they have scrap value.
2) Halon: Halon agent has been discouraged for use, but is still used in some applications (military). A huge tax was placed on the agent to "discourage" its use. If you come across cylinders with Halon, you can possibly find a buyer, that will recycle the agent.
3) Water: Water extinguishers mostly have water in them. If you find one with anti-freeze or foam agent in them, find a suitable place to dispose of it. Find out if it is permitted to be put in the sewer system. Obviously, if you have a septic tank, you do not want to dump it in the drain, as it could contaminate the ground water. Otherwise, find a suitable place to dispose of it.
4) Carbon Tetrachloride: This chemical was used in extinguishers until around the 1950's. The extinguisher containers were glass bulbs, cylinders and cans. This is a dangerous chemical! If in contact to heat (fire etc.), it turns to phosgene (nerve agent) gas. If you come across these extinguishers, keep in a well ventilated area and consult your local environmental office to determine how the chemical can be properly disposed of.
Other fire extinguisher components that may have value:
1) Brackets. Most brackets are made of steel and/or aluminum. Unless the bracket is bent, mangled, etc., you can usually reuse them. Whether wall mounting or vehicle types, you may be able to resell them or even use them yourself.
2) Cabinets. If you have cabinets that were removed from buildings, there are two types:
a) Wall mounted, where they were mounted on a wall. These can be resold to mount on another wall.
b) Recessed mounted, where they were partially mounted in the wall. Usually not sought after, as they would require cutting into the wall to mount.
If a cabinet is not mangled, rusted or have broken glass, it may be resalable.
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Originally Posted by HipoGear
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