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Diesel Runaway problems

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    lousypirate started this thread.
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    Diesel Runaway problems

    The past week I've been experiencing infrequent runaway problems.

    Truck will stick at a given RPM, then I shift into neutral and the RPMs soar, or bump up a little, then break free and return to idle. I also have been having problems on cold start at idle

    Cleared enough room in the garage to pull in tonight. I hope I don't end up walking to work tomorrow morning.

    Gonna tear into the pump and hope for the best.



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    Patriot76's Avatar
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    I wish I could help, but have not had the problem with my diesel. I do not know what type of diesel you have, but if you do a search on that type of forum, many times you will find a thread by a mechanic that will lead you in the right direction. You can also take it to an auto parts store and most of the time they will hook up their computer to read the codes for free. Good luck.

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  4. #3
    lousypirate started this thread.
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    12 valve.

    I'm going to be tearing into the p7100 tonight. It sounds like I have a sticking rack or governor spring problem. I did turn the springs up 3 clicks (4 months ago). I'm going to turn them back down.

    checked the turbo for leaking oil. not the problem. Intake tube bone dry.


    I have a thread going on cumminsforum and on my off road forum. I'll get it figure out one way or another. That or I'll auction the truck and buy another subaru lol

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    Diesel Runaway problems

    throttle position sensor if it has one
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    lousypirate started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattInTheHat View Post
    throttle position sensor if it has one
    TPS only controls the point at which the trans shifts into OD and torque converter lockup.

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    jord0690's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lousypirate View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by MattInTheHat View Post
    throttle position sensor if it has one
    TPS only controls the point at which the trans shifts into OD and torque converter lockup.
    On my 24v it controls throttle from idle to WOT. It kept giving me dead pedal. Would get into an intersection, start my turn then just no power. Dead pedal. Was fun times.
    If I didn't have bad luck, I'd have no luck at all...

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    lousypirate started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jord0690 View Post
    On my 24v it controls throttle from idle to WOT. It kept giving me dead pedal. Would get into an intersection, start my turn then just no power. Dead pedal. Was fun times.
    I'm really not enjoying having issues driving 40 mph at 1700rpm and then it freezes in gear, can't throttle, can't brake. put it in neutral and have it running at 2800rpm for 10 seconds or so, then returning to idle.

    Or actually being able to cut the engine, then have to crank a bunch to get it to start again.

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    I'm not trying to be funny, but it's winter time, it's possible frozen moisture in your throttle cable and it's staying in the same position for a moment after removing your foot from the throttle. I'd try some wd-40 before I tore into that pump

    Edit:
    Also make sure that tension spring isn't broken
    Last edited by corycouch; 02-05-2014 at 08:05 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by corycouch View Post
    I'm not trying to be funny, but it's winter time, it's possible frozen moisture in your throttle cable and it's staying in the same position for a moment after removing your foot from the throttle. I'd try some wd-40 before I tore into that pump

    Edit:
    Also make sure that tension spring isn't broken
    I'd give what he said a try!

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  14. #10
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    For the sake of it, and I tell EVERYONE with a diesel this, you need to carry a CO2 fire extinguisher so if it does run away you can snuff it out before it wrecks anything VERY expensive. If it is running away to the limiter, it's not the governor springs. Check the travel of your throttle, does it bind, etc. Also, the return spring could be broken. The P7100 is not known for sticking...generally it is the cable.

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    lousypirate started this thread.
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    Diesel Runaway problems

    I tore into a bunch of stuff and the only thing I noticed was that my oil was kind of low. like a gallon. I feel like a retard.

    now that I think of it, I don't remember the last time I checked and topped off fluids.


    anyways, I changed all filters, fresh oil.


    and it was running up to the governor. everything seemed fine today. we'll try her again tomorrow.

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    armygreywolf's Avatar
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    It might be worth pulling a boot off to see just how oily it is inside the intake tract. I don't know if the 12V had a allen head threaded plug on the bottom of the intercooler or not, but if it does, pull it out and see if oil comes out, a "little bit" is alright but not ALOT. If you do find a significant amount of oil then the center cartridge on your turbo needs to be rebuilt. Just because it doesn't look oily from the air intake side means nothing.

    Alternatively, an injector with a stuck poppet can cause your engine to run up, but it'll do it CHUGGING sounding like an old two cylinder john deere and not a smooth run up at all. If it is the rack sticking, there's a few things you can do. One is because we run ULSD now (thank you government...) that the diesel additives from the pump just arent enough for older diesels. Try a quart of regular old dexron atf with your next fill up right in the fuel tank, do it for several fill ups in a row. After the second fill up your sticking problems should be gone. Still want to run it for one more tank afte that. Caveat, the truck might have a "slight" haze to the exhaust but I doubt it'll be noticeable to you.

    I fix these things for a living, and those are your low buck cheap tricks to try before I suggest you take things apart and I show you diagrams of what to look for that might be broken.

    Also, if you determine it is the pump, you can stuff it in a box and ship it to me, I rebuild them for 300 without new delivery valves and 550 with new valves, rack plug, pressure spring and a fuel plate of your choice.
    Last edited by armygreywolf; 02-07-2014 at 01:56 AM.

  17. #13
    ilovejunk's Avatar
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    also make absolutely sure you have no air in any fuel lines, air trapped in the injection lines or pump can make for very erratic rpm spikes and stumbles (i.e. you press the throttle and nothing happens....nothing happens....you release throttle think WTf is goin on?....still nothing happens, -- then wham! your running at 3000 rpm and it wont idle down til the air pocket is pushed through the system, scary as h@** when your driving through through town and this happens)

    air in the system is also one of the most common causes for hard starts / restarts.
    Last edited by ilovejunk; 02-08-2014 at 02:42 AM.

  18. #14
    Mechanic688's Avatar
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    air in the system is also one of the most common causes for hard restarts.
    That was a quick learning experience for me with a Chevy diesel I had bought not too much earlier. The injector pump started leaking around the throttle shaft. Leaking a little fuel and sucking a lot of air. To get it to start easier I would crack open an injector line at the motor and crank the motor till it started. Finally cost me a rebuild pump and another starter from cranking too long at a time. I loved to hate that lil 6.2.
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    Im not to hip on the newer diesel stuff but I do a pre-trip inspection on my trucks before I even start them. As far as sticking cables and linkages, I like to clean them with Berrymans carb and choke spray until it comes out nice and clean on the other end. After that I like to follow up with food grade silicone spray. I spray until it comes out the other end. I simply love that stuff for it dries decent, doesn't attract dust and get gummed up nearly as quick (usually re-apply about every 5 years). works for cables, ratchet straps, ect. with no mess and easy operation for a good long time.


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