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| A Day in the Life of a Scrapper
  1. #41
    SuperDave's Avatar
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    Nice setup!


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  3. #42
    sledge started this thread.
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    Dave-
    Thanks my man. I replaced my busted clevis hook.. umm it was a VERY Expensive replacement. ProLink costs $142 and the Crosby Anchor Shackle was $27 bucks.. don't tell the wife!
    I'm so into scrapping.. When my Steel Toe Boots Wear out, I cut the Steel out of them and recycle the Toe!

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  5. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by sledge View Post
    So this is my sense of humor. Whenever I get a vehicle- I go through it with a fine tooth comb. As luck would have it- this Jimmy had the original car lot window sticker in the glovebox. Being the smart-arse I am- I taped it to the drivers side window. When new in 1993 it cost over $24,000... I snagged it for $300...21 years later. Not quite "showroom quality" but I like the price MUCH better! HA!

    Thats funny! Someone passing by might wonder if you just bought that off a lot lol.
    Scrapper, Scrap Yard Worker, Horse farm worker, Cooler Puller and just plain ''tired''

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  7. #44
    sledge started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by newattitude View Post
    Thats funny! Someone passing by might wonder if you just bought that off a lot lol.
    Yep.. They had to Fork it up there for me.. cause I couldn't afford the upgrade of rims and tires! HA!

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  9. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by sledge View Post
    Adding some new Bling to the Trailer. My hook that couples the winch cable to the J-Hooks has one of those flimsy crap latches on it. Instead of keep buying them over and over and expecting a different result. Decided to fork out some cash and get a Factor55 ProLink.. I also ordered a Crosby 3/4" Screw Pin Anchor that will connect my Winch cable and Recovery J-Hooks. I'll snap pics of it once all arrives.. but here are a few pics to tide you over.. This is gonna be badarse!

    Rated Load on the ProLink is 16,000 lbs with an Ultimate Fail Load Rating of 39,000lbs
    The Crosby 3/4" Screw Pin Anchor Shackle has a rating of 9,500 Lbs
    What it Replaces: a G70 Hook with a Max Rating of 5,400 lbs. On a 10,000 lb winch.. it appears to be less than adequate!


    I just bought one looks pretty cool not cheap as you said close to $150.-

  10. #46
    sledge started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidarlen View Post
    I just bought one looks pretty cool not cheap as you said close to $150.-
    I saw one on the net and thought.. Cool.. Went to Ebay.. Almost pooped! I mean they are machined out of solid aluminum.. but MAN.. we all recycled a lot of Aluminum for them to make that ingot! Don't think I've recycled that many aluminum cans to pay for it!

  11. #47
    sledge started this thread.
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    Wanted to post a pic of the entire set-up with the J Hooks also. Had a bunch of stuff on the trailer and couldn't stretch them out initially. Got it cleaned off and snapped a pic.
    Last edited by sledge; 11-12-2014 at 12:29 PM.

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  13. #48
    sledge started this thread.
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    Ok Folks: Have a Question. Scored (9) 55 gallon steel drums.. but they are sealed drums. Anyone have advice on how to cut them open to use 1 or 2 as burn barrels without having a razor sharp top edge?


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  15. #49
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    Torch?

    Cut inside the lip on the top and hammer the edge to the side?

    That's all I got for ya right now

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  17. #50
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    Maybe try using an angle grinder to cut the top off and then use it to file down the sharp edge. We have die grinders (I call em guy grinders cause I always catch my fingers on then cleaning brake anchors LOL) and put abrasive pads on them to smooth out sharp edges.

    Or a sawsall and then grind/sand down the edges.

    OR a giant can opener! Sorry couldnt resist
    If I didn't have bad luck, I'd have no luck at all...

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  19. #51
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    I would use a torch. I've sliced fingers open with one that was cut with a grinder!

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  21. #52
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    Maybe a jig saw (ride the lip to get a close cut) then clean up the edges with a grinder. Often times the bottoms are softer due to sitting on the ground so they are easier to cut.
    Recyclable Material Merchant Wholesaler
    Certified Zip-Tie Mechanic
    "Give them enough so they can do something with it, but not too much that they won't do nothing."

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  23. #53
    sledge started this thread.
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    Thanks gents. I have kiddos that would definitely be around it when we have some family fire time.. so I want to try and make it so that we don't have any ER trips to spoil the fun!

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  25. #54
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    If you're making a burn barrel or something of that nature I'd suggest you take the top out of the drum and leave the top rim intact.
    Easy way to do this is with a good size cold chisel and a heavy hammer. Takes about five minutes. Just go close to the rim and cut your way around. I've cut a lot of them this way to make open top barrels for fires.

    I'd surly not use a torch if there is some oil left in the drum, almost guaranteed to not work out well.

    Cutting the top rim off by laying the drum down and going around with a cutoff wheel will leave a sharp top edge.
    Yep, cold chisel and hammer is the only way I have ever removed the top of a drum. But the hammer and chisel is quick easy and relatively safe. Most of the ones that I have cut once held transformer oil.

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  27. #55
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    They make basicly what is a giant can opener for these drums. They work slick. We have had one at the farm for years. Careful with torching. What was in them. Seen bottom blow out of them before.

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  29. #56
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  31. #57
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    If you're going with the deheader then you can get it for $30 less on ebay
    Wesco 272018 Drum Deheader Steel Ergonomic Handle | eBay

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  33. #58
    sledge started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDave View Post
    If you're making a burn barrel or something of that nature I'd suggest you take the top out of the drum and leave the top rim intact.
    Easy way to do this is with a good size cold chisel and a heavy hammer. Takes about five minutes. Just go close to the rim and cut your way around. I've cut a lot of them this way to make open top barrels for fires.

    I'd surly not use a torch if there is some oil left in the drum, almost guaranteed to not work out well.

    Cutting the top rim off by laying the drum down and going around with a cutoff wheel will leave a sharp top edge.
    Yep, cold chisel and hammer is the only way I have ever removed the top of a drum. But the hammer and chisel is quick easy and relatively safe. Most of the ones that I have cut once held transformer oil.
    AWESOME! Yes I think this is the best way to go about this. These barrels contain residue of:
    1. Used Motor Oil
    2. Others have used HIGHLY Flammable Auto Parts Cleaner in them

    So INDEED I am looking for a "NO SPARK" solution. Probably should have specified that in my initial post!
    Thanks man!

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  35. #59
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    I use dryer drums as burn barrels they work great smooth edged and a nice height. Do not have to lift the drum and dump it just lift the open dryer drum, and spread the ashes. I bet it would word good for burning a small stump? Also good for cooking too depending on what you are burning, I generally burn brush and weeds, David

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  37. #60
    sledge started this thread.
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    SuperDave: Used a Cold Chisel and hammer.. and BOOM. Perfect.. Gave me something to putter on while I am listening to the Indy 500 on the radio (blackout because we are local). Thanks for the tip!! Worked perfectly and no spark potential! Whoop!

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