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Need advice on a bad vehicle purchase

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  1. #1
    jiffy117 started this thread.
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    Need advice on a bad vehicle purchase

    I was all excited to buy a used truck to help with my scrap hauling and collecting. Found a 98 F150 4x4 for $2k; private deal. Well long story short I got screwed... My fault for rushing the deal. The bed was rotted, which I knew going in, and exhaust was bad, planned on fixing that as well.. However, when I got to looking over the floorboards and seats the whole thing was rotten and loose. Beyond repair, with my skill set at least. I am willing to move on and loose money on it, just trying to limit how much. Local u-pull-it yard quoted my $500 and they will come get it. Is it worth posting on CL for $750 and see what happens. I thought of parting it out as it runs and drives, but I'm selling my house in a few months. This option is off the table. Thoughts? Any chance someone that parts out vehicles privately would pay more than the local big name place?



  2. #2
    MattyNoNeck's Avatar
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    Wow this sounds eerily similar to what happened to me. First off, I really feel for ya. I rushed in and got boned.

    Now, you won’t get your 2K back unless you part it out and you already said that wasn’t an option.

    Put it up whole as a parts truck would be my suggestion. I got $900 for my 99 Silverado when the frame went bad and the shackle rusted through, and the guy just wanted the engine. If you’re lucky, you might get half of your investment back.

    Good luck, man, you’ll be back up and running soon
    "Don't try to be a great man, just be a man. Let history make its own judgments"

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    sledge's Avatar
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    Put a CL ad up and be honest with its flaws. Put say $1000 bucks on it.
    Someone may want it for a mud-toy, donor vehicle or farm truck.

    You may just nab back some of your cash.

    If full sale fails.. set it on there for Part-out. Line up someone with a truck and trailer or you'll probably get flooded with guys on your initial ad on CL offering to buy it lowball (off the $1K) SAVE THEIR PHONE NUMBERS.. if and when you need them.. call them back- starting with the highest offer and work down the chain.
    I'm so into scrapping.. When my Steel Toe Boots Wear out, I cut the Steel out of them and recycle the Toe!

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    jiffy- I got a 91 F150, there is no such thing as floor boards on the drivers side, i screwed 2 floor mats down to frame and door jam and thats my floor, its a junk hauler NOT a sunday driver!

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    Mechanic688's Avatar
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    Or look at the yard while your there unloading for a piece of sheet tin to pop rivet down and make your "new" floorboard. I had a vehicle once that was done like that and had been tarred or undercoated on the bottom real heavy so it wouldn't rust right back out.
    Had a car the owner had filled a big rust hole with spray foam insulation and when it dried, he smoothed it out and overcoated it with a layer of bondo, then repainted. Lasted for years, went thru a couple of owners.
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    99problems's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwefel1995 View Post
    jiffy- its a junk hauler NOT a sunday driver!
    thats what i was thinking lol

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    Curbside shopper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sledge View Post
    Put a CL ad up and be honest with its flaws. Put say $1000 bucks on it.
    Someone may want it for a mud-toy, donor vehicle or farm truck.

    You may just nab back some of your cash.

    If full sale fails.. set it on there for Part-out. Line up someone with a truck and trailer or you'll probably get flooded with guys on your initial ad on CL offering to buy it lowball (off the $1K) SAVE THEIR PHONE NUMBERS.. if and when you need them.. call them back- starting with the highest offer and work down the chain.
    Seconded. It's a 4x4, winter is just around the corner, it should sell. Or start getting creative with the pop rivets, tiger hair, bondo and Teflon tape.

    As long as the frame is solid in NY if I remember right it'll pass inspection, Pa is a bit tougher, some will fail you for any obvious hole...but I've seen miracles performed with wadded up newspaper and a gallon of bondo around here.

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    Need advice on a bad vehicle purchase

    I always figure any truck with 4x4 and runs is worth at least 1k. That being said I don't know about any inspections or DEQ stuff you guys have to go through, but any decent backyard welder should be able to fix up the floor and exhaust fairly quick and easy. Or like others have said rivet on some tin and call it good. If your only concern is not accidentally pulling a Fred Flintstone you could even use wood or plastic.
    "And if your train's on time, You can get to work by nine, and start your slaving job to get your pay. If you ever get annoyed, Look at me I'm self-employed
    I love to work at nothing all day" -BTO

  14. #9
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    Jiffy I hope you can either fix it so its workable for scrapping or sell it at not such a huge loss. Money isn't something fun to lose especially when its so hard earned and can't afford to lose it.

    Maybe you could tighten the bed up with some welded pieces of metal and the floor boards too if you know anyone who welds?
    Scrapper, Scrap Yard Worker, Horse farm worker, Cooler Puller and just plain ''tired''

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    I know I'm the new guy here, but I'll share my input nonetheless.

    #1) No jerry rigging. Trust me. It's 1 thing to rig something together, and "Make it work" on the farm, but something on the highway that might get you or someone else potentially harmed or killed just isn't worth it.

    #2) Did you actually look this truck over prior to buying it? I mean...Wow. Anyways, it's your baby now. So just make the best of it and move on.

    #3) As for the floor pans; Some old road signs (Won't rust) installed would be ok, but just having someone weld in a set of floor pans would be a better option. 2-3 hours with a MIG welder and it's DONE.

    As for the bed rottened out issue: Why not flat bed it?

    You could build a cheap wooden or metal/wooden hybrid and make even money per load, because of not being "Restricted" to a 4'x 6' or 8' bed floor.

    Either way, I'd personally just fix it to a point it isn't a rolling accident waiting to happen, make a few scrap runs to recoup some cash, and then sell it. At least that way, you wouldn't be hurt too bad, and take this as a lesson for future vehicle buys.

    Best of luck!
    Wesley

    1992 F-150 w/ I6, 5 speed & 14' single axle trailer
    "You trash it; I scrap it."

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  17. #11
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    If it runs well , consider its just a work truck . I would sure up all that you can with some exterior ply wood on floor board areas
    screws - construction adhesive - great stuff foam , Undercoat . are some of the products to jimmy rig fix .
    Then just go make money with truck till it's dead . You will get more time out of truck then you realize
    and that truck can pay for itself

    ------------------
    Should add this , I've seen with any vehicle I used for scrap and most of all the consistent look of scrapper autos .
    6 months in to real work , come on now .
    It's the loading thing first you try to be dainty about it like my gosh I don't want to ruin it . Well that passes fast when your alone and by any means possible that fridge is going in . Or that 14 foot long pipe , oops gotta use the roof ahh crap a dent ahh frig it wheres the money hand it over .
    All in All a beat up truck that works is the way to go .
    Last edited by Copper Head; 08-03-2014 at 10:46 PM.

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  19. #12
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    This is unfortunately a very common problem on the 97-2003 generation Ford trucks. The floor pans are the easy part- Cab mounts, cross members and frame rail rust are what sends most of these trucks to the junkyard. I don't know what it is about the Fords that they rust in the worst places. A Dodge or Chevy/GMC will rust as well, but at least they're usually fixable.

    If you can't sell it for a good enough price, the part-out option would probably do OK for you. These trucks are very common, so there's always a good demand for parts. Every F-150 I've ever parted out has gotten picked clean and made me good money. Plus, these trucks have about $200 worth of converters on them- It's a 4-cat setup, usually with two high-grade pre cats and two standard domestics. So, just chopping the cats and scrapping the rest would get you more than the $500 the yard offered.

    Good luck. Making a bad buy sucks, but we've all done it at one time or another. Many owners of these trucks are shocked to find out how bad the rust damage can be, so it's entirely possible the seller didn't realize how bad it was.
    Sparrow Metals- Automotive core and converter buyer in Central PA since 2012.

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    jiffy117 started this thread.
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    Thanks for the input guys. As I said, I'm moving soon. I have to fix up family apartment we are moving into and fix up things around my house and empty my garage full of computers... Feeling a little overwhelmed with all I have to do before end of fall. So at this point if I can sell for 8-900 I'd call it a learning lesson and move fwd. I listed it for 900 on Saturday on CL and got three hits in three hours. Of course they all fizzled, but made me think that was the right price. Will try again and see what happens.

    Its a safety issue, which is why I did not just patch the floor up. Some of the seat mounting bolts were loose as they were attached to rotted metal. I could rock the seat with one hand... The seat belt on the passenger side was loose as well, it attached to the floor. Thing is a death trap until fixed or scrapped.

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    It's probably all for the best. The older trucks need a lot of maintenance & upkeep. I know i've got at least a hundred hours of labor into my 94 F-150 this year alone.

    Once the rust gets ahead of you there's almost no saving the truck.

    If the floorboards are rusted out it's likely that it's to a point where stress cracks are developing down on the frame. You know ... you load the truck, hit a hard bump, and it's not very long before the frame breaks.

    The Fords aren't all that bad. They hold up all right as long as you take care of em'. It's just that people don't crawl down under the truck to keep an eye on the rust situation often enough.

    For whatever it's worth, i know of two Chevys that had the cross members rot out within the first three years of being on the road. I also know of two Toyota trucks where the manufacturer made good on a frame replacement because they failed after three years on the road.

    These new box frames and tubular cross members are bad JuJu.

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    Fill it with crap, and drive it onto the scale at the yard and walk away with the ticket to the window. When they tell you that you are not allowed to park there, pull a Blues Brothers, and tell them, "I'm not parking it, I am abandoning it!"


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