Originally Posted by
bullion
I have decided to open a used appliance store.
My friend has an empty store in a strip mall and we both know a journeyman appliance tech with a gas ticket that is looking for work.
I usually get around 40-60 appliances a month mostly working because folks are upgrading to new ones.
More details to follow as soon as more details are worked out.
After refurbishing a machine would give a 6 month unconditional warranty, fortunately I never had to replace any of my machines. Yes the warranty was by replacement not money back but you may have to check with local laws on that one.
I did once sell a dryer that the buyer called me up on, the dryer did not work when they got it home so when I went to their house first thing I checked was the circuit breaker often a 220 volt breaker will only trip one side of the breaker which is difficult to notice because the breaker is siamesedso I reset the breaker then tested for power at the outlet. The dryer still not working, told the owner of the house that I would like to check inside the breaker panel.
What I discovered was the house had been wired with aluminium, one side had burnt away from the breaker terminal.Informed the owner that aluminum wiring was dangerous and that it should be replaced with copper as his insurance company would probably wriggle out if a claim were submitted from a resulting fire.
His wife was really angry with her husband as her dryer lay out on the sun deck in pieces where he had dissembled it looking for the problem.,
On dryers and washing machines the bearings used on the motors are made from an oilight bronze bushing impregnated with oil, the bushing has a felt surrounding it this felt is a resivour for oil over the years lint escaping from the dryer will collect around the shaft of the motor wicking out the oil from both felt and bushing.
I completely remove the motor taking it outdoors then blow out any lint from inside and outside before adding new oil into the wick, sometimes it pays to gently heat the motor shaft which encourages the oil to enter the porous oilite bushing and the felt wick.
Get yourself a meger this instrument will let you check out the integrity of the insulation used on the motor windings, an amp meter clamped onto a split power cord during motor start up will inform you if the motor exceeds start up amperage, all the information is generally included on the manufactures tag attached to the motor.
I always kept some machines in inventory that had blemishes etc, for folks not having enough funds to purchase something pretty.
Most repairman will not fix a freezer, the high side usually has pin holes rusted into the metal tubing that lays on the inside bottom and walls of the freezer out of view, When the freezer is running if you slowly pass your hand from top to bottom on the front of the freezer you will feel places that range from warm to hot to the touch this is where the high side tubing is attached to the inside walls.
This tubing is also placed on the most bottom part of the flooring between the freezer inside cabinet and the insulation, it's the tubing on the bottom that rots out, you can salvage a freezer by retrofitting a high side coil from an old fridge externally onto the back of the freezer, your technician will know how to perform this work.
IMHO having the high side coil internally is cosmetic and does nothing to save on electricity as the freezer has to work overtime. Ninety percent of commercial applications have the condenser installed outside or use a water cooled coil inside the building. We domestic folks get screwed over.
I always asked if the customer had a trade in, offering a discount on their purchase if they had. The offer can be one made in cash or as a service for delivery or scrap removal. You will over time learn how to read your customers. Treat them well and you'll be surprised how far word of mouth advertising goes.
My back yard appliance repair business ended up with me doing in house service calls.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oilite
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