Any advice on best way to load 12ft long items

Cut it in half, chop saw, sawz all......

I'm trying to imagine 100 lb chuncks of aluminum. I fill the bed of my truck with pop cans and don't break 100 lbs. Weird.

Originally Posted by IamTheGreatest

I'm trying to imagine 100 lb chuncks of aluminum. I fill the bed of my truck with pop cans and don't break 100 lbs. Weird.

They are projector screens with alum housings that are 12ft long. When I broke down the last one, The aluminum makes up about 50lbs, the rest is the screen and innards.

I would just bend, break or cut them
And if anyone says its impossible to break or bend those alum pieces, its not. ive done it.

Originally Posted by greytruck

This is wear having a headache rack comes in handy...

But speaking from experience, Ive done those 12ft ware house racks hanging over the tailgate before. Use something as a counter weight to put on top after you load them to hold them from flopping up and down as you drive. a couple pallets or something.

Or just cut them in half as mentioned

Just ended up flopping them over the tailgate and rachet strapping them down, then loaded stuff on top on the portion in the bed by the cab. Worked out fine they just stuck out the back a lot over top the trailer but it was fine!

"This is wear having a headache rack comes in handy..."


I think you were looking for the term ladder rack. Headache rack is just for behind the cab, comes from loading log trucks so the logs don't hit the back of cab when loading and gives you a headache. Toyota made/makes a cool foldup ladder rack system.

I would just bend, break or cut them
And if anyone says its impossible to break or bend those alum pieces, its not. ive done it.

lay 6x6 across the tail gate, gives you the angle without hitting the trailer.

Put a flag on them and let them hang over the end. 600# should not make a difference on a truck. I have had trailer tongue 1000#+ and while somewhat light in the front, it was drivable if no road conditions contributed to add to issues of handling.

I tend to look at as balancing the load. The eight feet on the trailer comprises 8/12 ths. of the load as long as it's laying flat. Strap it at the tailgate so that it can't shift sideways.

Remember: If you come to an abrupt stop .... that load is still traveling at 40 miles per hour and wants to shift forward. If the load is placed on a tailgate that's in the upright position .... it may pole vault over the cab of the truck.

Originally Posted by IamTheGreatest

"This is wear having a headache rack comes in handy..."


I think you were looking for the term ladder rack. Headache rack is just for behind the cab, comes from loading log trucks so the logs don't hit the back of cab when loading and gives you a headache. Toyota made/makes a cool foldup ladder rack system.

I think we're along the same lines. The headache rack is the expanded metal screen & structure assembly that's mounted on the back wall above the truck bed on a pickup truck. It keeps loose objects from flying through the back window of the cab and decapitating the driver when the vehicle comes to an abrupt stop. You see em' on most flatbed trucks as well.

Originally Posted by IamTheGreatest

"This is wear having a headache rack comes in handy..."


I think you were looking for the term ladder rack. Headache rack is just for behind the cab, comes from loading log trucks so the logs don't hit the back of cab when loading and gives you a headache. Toyota made/makes a cool foldup ladder rack system.

I did mean headache rack. i have a homemade one on my truck that connects the side walls. it was intended as a "window blocker" but i also throw long items up there like the long water lines i get from my plumbing place. I wouldnt recommend ladder rack for scrapping, they are too restrictive with that bar going across the back end.