what determines when copper is bare bright and not?

I believe the difference between #1 and #2 is that #2 is not clean and you can make #2 into #1 by removing elements of solder, paint and other contaminates.

Quick video here helps:

If you stripped a welding cable even though it is bright it would have to go in the #1.

Bare and bright needs to be solid conductor which is 14 gauge of larger . You can have a cable like 1/0 which will have several smaller solid 14 or 12 gauge conductors, you just cant have the really fine strands wire like a welding cable is made of in your bare and bright.

Only wire which has been stripped will be bare and bright. If the wire is tinned it must go in the #2. If you burn wire it will have to go in the #1 if it is large enough or #2 if it is stranded like a 16 or 14 gauge extension cord.

Pipe even if it is new and bright is still not bare and bright, it will be #1. Pipe that is tarnished and not to badly corroded without solder joints will go for #1. Any pipe that has solder joints or is badly corroded (green) or have paint will have to go in the #2.

The yards I use don't have a bare bright class for copper, only #1 and #2. #1 has to be thicker than a #2 pencil lead and clean, tubing can be #1 if it's clean (no solder or any other contaminates) #2 copper is anything thinner than #2 pencil lead or any wire with solder or heavy corrosion on it. It's my understanding that they pay less for thin wire because some gets lost in the processing.

if your yard is not buying your wire as bare bright they are not treating you right. Heavy gauge wire that is bright and shiny is bare bright all day long. I would bet after you leave your yard they sort out the wire from the number 1. Bare bright is worth about .30 cents more a pound than number 1 some times more. hope this is helpfull

Originally Posted by NoviceScrapper

I believe the difference between #1 and #2 is that #2 is not clean and you can make #2 into #1 by removing elements of solder, paint and other contaminates.

Quick video here helps:

Just sayin, most of the vids from them are not too helpful. Not enough info in tmem

Bluemeate, try this link. It's pretty easy to understand. But, like everyone has stated, each yard has their own way of doing things.

Copper Recycling

Originally Posted by bluemeate

the exact diff between 1 & 2 is what I am asking

is it just based on the dull layer of rust?

also how does and why does wire thickness come into play? like does really thin strands of wire have to be put with the number 2 even though it is bare and bright?

also what about pipes? does it have to be shiny brand new to be put in with number 1?

what about dull pipe that has solder and other contaminants compared to dull pipe that is just plain copper?

My yard would consider all 3 types as "Bare Bright." So, I would put them all together. You are going to strip them, right?

All yards are different. Some might say #1.

ISRI SPECS! The first spec is bare bright...

No. 1 COPPER WIRE
Shall consist of No. 1 bare, uncoated, unalloyed copper
wire, not smaller than No. 16 B & S wire gauge.
Green copper wire and hydraulically compacted
material to be subject to agreement between buyer
and seller.

No. 1 COPPER WIRE
Shall consist of clean, untinned, uncoated, unalloyed
copper wire and cable, not smaller than No. 16 B
& S wire gauge, free of burnt wire which is brittle.
Hydraulically briquetted copper subject to agreement.

No. 2 COPPER WIRE
Shall consist of miscellaneous, unalloyed copper
wire having a nominal 96% copper content (minimum
94%) as determined by electrolytic assay.
Should be free of the following: Excessively leaded,
tinned, soldered copper wire; brass and bronze wire;
excessive oil content, iron, and non-metallics; copper
wire from burning, containing insulation; hair wire;
burnt wire which is brittle; and should be reasonably
free of ash. Hydraulically briquetted copper subject
to agreement.

No. 1 HEAVY COPPER
Shall consist of clean, unalloyed, uncoated copper
clippings, punchings, bus bars, commutator segments,
and wire not less than 1/16 of an inch thick, free of
burnt wire which is brittle; but may include clean copper
tubing. Hydraulically briquetted copper subject to
agreement.

No. 2 COPPER
Shall consist of miscellaneous, unalloyed copper
scrap having a nominal 96% copper content (minimum
94%) as determined by electrolytic assay.
Should be free of the following: Excessively leaded,
tinned, soldered copper scrap; brasses and bronzes;
excessive oil content, iron and non-metallics; copper
tubing with other than copper connections or
with sediment; copper wire from burning, containing
insulation; hair wire; burnt wire which is brittle; and
should be reasonably free of ash. Hydraulically briquetted
copper subject to agreement.

Bluemate...reading those wires from left to right: The first 2 are #2 ICW, the third one would be #1 ICW and the last one is EC wire. I wouldn't mix them altogether per little726 suggestion. My guess is they allow him to mix all types of copper because they pay him significantly less. Here is what I would pay you today at my yard for your copper:

#1 Cu- $3.38
#2 Cu- $3.19
Bare Bright- $3.49