Check the label to see if it's marked with any of "no PCB's" or "PCB free" or anything similar. If its not marked, and thus contains PCBs; I was told the PCBs are only contained in the capacitor inside the ballast, same big aluminum can style as you find inside a
microwave. The tar encasing everything is apparently PCB-free. This is according to a couple of old-timer electricians who were working during the years they switched over. Myself, if they're not clearly marked PCB-free, I'm health conscious enough and lazy enough to just ship them out as-is.
Edit to add; there seems to be 2 common sizes I run across, the smaller are approx. 2"H x 3"W x 10"L, larger are about 2 1/2"H x 4"W x 12"L, both sizes are a guess as I'm going off memory. The larger ones 1 break down as you get about 1.5 lbs of #2 copper. The smaller ones I'll set aside until I have nothing to do, or sometimes I'll hire a friend who needs a few $$ to do some. Smaller ones average just over a 1/2 lb of copper. Like Mick said, sometimes you can get alum windings instead of copper. If you check one set of windings and it's alum, check the 2nd set as well. Having one copper and one aluminum isn't uncommon.
Having a bench vise to work on these makes it many times quicker and easier. I do them like an assembly line. Take a bunch out of the housings, then de-tar that batch, and then finally beat/slide/cut the windings off the steel. This is what I've found works easiest for me. I can get about 12-15 an hour doing it this way. Good luck!
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