WELCOME BACK INJUNJOE! This isn't an OSHA requirement, it's the manufacturers requirement. Not sure how much of it is a safety issue and how much of it is a sales issue. I might try the sharpened pipe on the fiberglass ones.
WELCOME BACK INJUNJOE! This isn't an OSHA requirement, it's the manufacturers requirement. Not sure how much of it is a safety issue and how much of it is a sales issue. I might try the sharpened pipe on the fiberglass ones.
Fiberglass is non-conductive. They use them in the electricity departments & High voltage switchyards.
After a while they may get conductive because of dirt etc & they may also bend too much.
On a worksite I saw someone walk in with a ladder & announce "Have you ever seen a $1000 10 foot wooden ladder?
Well then, here is one.."
We all had a good look at it &.... well, I can see why its worth $1000. A thing of great beauty.
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I'd use a cutoff disc in a 9inch grinder, but if I had a sawzall, I'd use that.
Quieter, less overheads & safer & easier to set up a production line to do the job.
Last edited by eesakiwi; 04-22-2012 at 11:29 PM.
Despite fiberglass already being dry... It drys out more and starts breaking down and becomes weak.... I bet they would last a long time if they had a coat of marine paint on them
personally would use a sawzall with a 14-18 tooth count. It is maybe fastest way and will allow you to cut the fiberglass down as well as you go.
Also, ceramic (tile) blades for angle grinders work wonders on aluminum or rivets. If you use the diamond ceramic blade just keep a piece of steel handy to tap on now and then to clean out the wheel. one wheel will probably do the entire lot if you do it smart.
Since you have a limited time to destroy these ladders, you could just cut each of them in half and it would count as destroying them, correct? Than you could take them away and take out the steps on them on your own time!
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