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Hard drive breakdown

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    Pnutfarmer started this thread.
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    Hard drive breakdown

    This has probably been done a few times in here, but I wanted to share my experience with hard drives.
    I just tore down 20 hard drives the other night to check the yields. I bought them for 50 cents per lb and the 20 weighed a total of 22 lbs.
    It took me 12 minutes to take off all the boards which weighed 1 lb 12 oz. I can sell those at $11 right now -$2 shipping so that's $17.25. For the 20 lbs left I can get $7 at 35 cents per lb as 10% dirty aluminum.
    The total would give me $24.25 for a $13.25 profit on 12 minutes tear down plus hauling them around. That's not too bad especially if you have large quantities.

    Then I went on to completely tear them down and these are the results.
    Clean Al 10 lbs 5 oz at 45 cents = $4.64 local yard
    Stainless 2 lb 7 oz at 40 cents = $1.10 don't use a neodymium magnet to sort the screws, it will pick up a lot of stainless ones just by drawing on the nickel content
    Plastic 1oz = 0 board backing plus reader arm stops and dessicant packs (the only true waste)
    steel 3.4 oz at 6 cents =.01 local yard
    platters (disks) 32 for 1.25 lb at $2.50 =$3.12 average of recent ebay prices
    magnets 3 lb 2 oz at $2 = $6.25 average of recent ebay prices
    motors 12 for 1 lb 3 oz at 20 cents em = .24 It could be argued that these will sell on ebay for .30 -$1 ea but I haven't sold any (the ones mounted with screws, the others I get in with clean AL)
    reader arms 13 oz at 20 cents em = .16 They go in my electric motor bin for now, I may try to snap off the copper winding and put the rest in dirty AL
    This total is $15.52 compared to the $7 dirty AL price and I get $8.52 for an hour's labor. $15.52 + $17.25 = $32.77 total - $11 original cost is $21.77 profit on 20 drives and my haul yesterday was 300.
    It is definitely worth it to buy them to get the boards and I'll probably strip most all the way down but if any give me any trouble they hit the dirty AL bin.
    Sorry for the packed post, but I had a lot to get in and I hope it helps out someone.
    Notes on the teardown. You'll absolutely have to have a #8 torx screwdriver. The others you'll need are #6 for a lot of the Westells and possibly a #7 for a few oddballs. The boards are almost always put on with the #8 or a #1 Phillips. The cases can also be held together with #2 or #1 Phillips.
    Ribbon wire on the arm on most connects to gold plated pins that should be kept also. Most of the covers also have one or two hidden screws under the label. This lot I picked to be a good mix of manufacturers. Some older Seagates have more platters than others and heavier magnets which are nice but STRONG. If you have any questions just ask....20 down 280 to go.
    Some have a circuit board that covers half the back and some more up to covering the full back of the drive and weighing almost double so take this into account when buying.


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    platters are only $1.25 a pound on ebay?

    I have a box of (mostly) old SCSI one an a half height drives been sitting back there for several years now. Thinking after reading your post I'll probably just go with pulling the boards(soon as I get a #8 torx tip ; )

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    pcscrapper's Avatar
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    I constant getting in harddrives, just remember sata drives 80gb and up or worth more then scrap, second, I find that leaving them whole will yield more in the long run then breaking them down.. for example, one pound of boards will yield you about 15 bucks, not you take 1 pound of harddrives whole will yield you 1.25 per pound. it takes about 15 to 20 boards to make a pound. and plus the time.. I go with whole boards.. but thats my opion anyone else respond to this.?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bnbsfsd View Post
    I constant getting in harddrives, just remember sata drives 80gb and up or worth more then scrap, second, I find that leaving them whole will yield more in the long run then breaking them down.. for example, one pound of boards will yield you about 15 bucks, not you take 1 pound of harddrives whole will yield you 1.25 per pound. it takes about 15 to 20 boards to make a pound. and plus the time.. I go with whole boards.. but thats my opion anyone else respond to this.?
    That probly works well enough unless you're shipping, then it's probly best just ship the boards, and sell the rest local?

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    Pnutfarmer started this thread.
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    Bear
    That should have read 1 lb 4 oz, but for some reason I put 1.25 lb. The value for the platters I used was $2.50 which is close to an average I've gotten on ebay per lb. They range from $1 to $4 depending on how patient you can afford to be. I haven't found a buyer for them outright yet.

    Those old larger drives you're talking about are a bit tougher to break all the way down, but pulling the boards is nice. bnbsfsd is right that it takes 15-20 boards to make a lb on standard drives. The old Seagates with finger connectors instead of IDE are much heavier and still go as drive boards. I'll try to get a weight comparison tomorrow.

    bnsfsd
    You are right, I wouldn't scrap those sata drives, test them and sell them. Second, if I could get $1.25 per lb whole that would be an easy flip and I probably break down fewer, but I have noone local to sell at anything over dirty AL and ebay fees and shipping eats up so much for whole drives for me. I wish I had a larger yard near me to get better prices on everything and I know the prices I listed are different for everyone depending on where they live. I just posted the breakdown so everyone could see the actual weights of the different components and make a decision on whether it's worth the time and effort.

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    aw hek, i misread it anyway Pnut, $2.50 a lb, i see that now. I haven't even looked at em there in years, guess they've declined somewhat

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    Quote Originally Posted by bnbsfsd View Post
    I constant getting in harddrives, just remember sata drives 80gb and up or worth more then scrap, second, I find that leaving them whole will yield more in the long run then breaking them down.. for example, one pound of boards will yield you about 15 bucks, not you take 1 pound of harddrives whole will yield you 1.25 per pound. it takes about 15 to 20 boards to make a pound. and plus the time.. I go with whole boards.. but thats my opion anyone else respond to this.?
    If you read th break down he got 1 pound 12 ounces from 20 drives. I did a breakdown before and figured on average a hard drive board weighs 1 to 1.25 ounce therefore taking aprox. 12 to 15 boards to make a pound.

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    Before you sell the motors as scrap, take a few minutes to pull the tabs off the backs and save them for the gold recovery.

    P & M Recycling - Specializing in E-Waste Recycling.
    If you enjoy your freedom, thank a vet.

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  13. #9
    Pnutfarmer started this thread.
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    Thanks Mechanic,

    I have a small pile of these and forgot to include them because I was going to try to sell the motors as working on this lot. Do you have an idea on the value? They seem to have a good gold to total weight ratio, but I don't know how to classify them. These and the printer head contacts that look about the same.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pnutfarmer View Post
    Thanks Mechanic,

    I have a small pile of these and forgot to include them because I was going to try to sell the motors as working on this lot. Do you have an idea on the value? They seem to have a good gold to total weight ratio, but I don't know how to classify them. These and the printer head contacts that look about the same.
    No I don't have a value yet as I'm still accumulating them. Yes your right on the printer heads also. I just pull the lil tabs on the motors that get sold locally to the yard.

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    I was about to post a question about the printer head contacts, thans Mechanic.
    the gold looking foil/plastic film on the cd and floppy lasers, should they be saved as well?

  16. #12
    Pnutfarmer started this thread.
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    Hey Bear,
    I got the weight on one of the old Seagate drive boards, a whopping 4.7 oz. That's $2.94 at the price I can get for boards right now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sixteenacrewood View Post
    I was about to post a question about the printer head contacts, thans Mechanic.
    the gold looking foil/plastic film on the cd and floppy lasers, should they be saved as well?
    I do, and also the white films that plug in, they look to have silver ends.

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    I have a bunch of hard drives to get rid of. I have always broken them down and will continue to do so. I have no local biuyer for them complete until I become one.

    I have a couple hundreds pounds easily. I like to tear them apart while I watch football. I have let them build up. Along the way, I have tested and sold some, but all of the ones I have now are either proven to be dead, or I promised to completely dismantle. No resale value in any of them.

    I may just add another bunch of numbers to this thread after I go through with them.
    "64K should be enough for anybody." - Bill Gates 1981
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  19. #15
    Mechanic688's Avatar
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    I needed a new torx driver with bits for the smaller screws in HD's, so I ordered this one off of Ebay. Don't waste your money on this outfit. It is not even a full sized screwdriver and after about 2 hours of use the magnet lost it's power, and the bits are minature and won't fit another driver.


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    Can't you put them in a drill that has an adjustable chuck? Smallest bit I have had in my drill was about the diameter of a pencil lead.

    When I get bits that lose magnetism, I run a HD magnet over it a few times, perks it right back up.

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  22. #17
    Mechanic688's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoScrapper View Post
    Can't you put them in a drill that has an adjustable chuck? Smallest bit I have had in my drill was about the diameter of a pencil lead.

    When I get bits that lose magnetism, I run a HD magnet over it a few times, perks it right back up.
    You could but with the really small screws, if you run across a really tight one the drill would shear the bit right off. Not much of a loss tho, I'll just spend a couple of more dollars and get a bit set that is standard size that will fit a normal driver.

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    Pnutfarmer started this thread.
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    Hey guys, I use the Craftsman precision screwdrivers that have the top piece that can spin. After you break a screw loose, you can grab the thin shaft and turn it on out by rolling it between your fingers. Takes a little getting the hang of it but goes pretty fast when you do. These are the black and green drivers not standard Craftsman handles, but they guarantee them just the same as I've taken back several I've worn the teeth off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechanic688 View Post
    Before you sell the motors as scrap, take a few minutes to pull the tabs off the backs and save them for the gold recovery.

    What would they go as?

  25. #20
    Pnutfarmer started this thread.
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    I'd like to know a category and value of these also. I've been saving them but never had enough to sell really.


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