Need help identifying old computer - Page 2

Originally Posted by Bamcis

Well darn... I guess that's what I get for being trigger happy when it comes to taking things apart. I searched ebay and couldn't find anything like it. Do you have any idea what it would have been worth if I had just left it alone and tried to sell it? Also, are the boards worth anything to computer hobbyist/collectors?

First off rare stuff doesn't hit ebay every day and since you can only search back 30 days on closed auctions it isn't a great tool on researching rarities. I collect computers so I know a MCA bus slot just by looking at it, and I know a few companies made MCA machines that are pretty rare (Tandy made a Model 5000 MC machine which people lust after for example). The last NCR MCA machine I recall was from 2010 I think and went for more then I wanted to pay, forget how much it was.

Anyway for what its worth, that depends on if it works, what cames with it, details in the auction header, and whoever happens to see it and feel like bidding (could be anything). Rare doesn't mean $$$$ all the time, but I know the people in the PS/2 newsgroups do snag the rare MCA stuff when they see it, as do other collectors. I can't see the CPU numbers since they are covered in dust, did you find the model number on the back of the case?



MCA machines do not have a BIOS, everything is stored in battery backed up RAM and you need a reference disk to reload that information (can be found on the net in floppy image). Since you have taken the machine apart and I don't see a battery on the board (meaning it is probably a remote battery close to the speaker) anything stored is now gone (if the battery is dead it was gone anyway so no loss). If you turn the machine on and it works you will get a bunch of error codes because the settings have been wiped. The cards you have are basic video and SCSI, the configuration files would be online. Those floppy drives are not standard (if they are the same as what IBM used), and working ones and worth selling alone (power is provided in the interface cable not a seperate plug if you like to check).

If you see an old system with brown slots instead of the normal black/white you probably have an EISA or MCA bus machine or the more common VLB is the slots are extensions to the ISA bus. You might want to look into those before taking them apart.

i believe you'll find it to be that little chip with the white label in the upper left corner on the motherboard photo. What numbers do you see on that label ? You might also want to google that ; )

I think that is a NCR 3420 system, if so it is a 386.

NCR has the reference disks.

Originally Posted by KZBell

unknownk plz clear your pms so I ask you a question...thx

Done

Originally Posted by unknownk

First off rare stuff doesn't hit ebay every day and since you can only search back 30 days on closed auctions it isn't a great tool on researching rarities. I collect computers so I know a MCA bus slot just by looking at it, and I know a few companies made MCA machines that are pretty rare (Tandy made a Model 5000 MC machine which people lust after for example). The last NCR MCA machine I recall was from 2010 I think and went for more then I wanted to pay, forget how much it was.

Anyway for what its worth, that depends on if it works, what cames with it, details in the auction header, and whoever happens to see it and feel like bidding (could be anything). Rare doesn't mean $$$$ all the time, but I know the people in the PS/2 newsgroups do snag the rare MCA stuff when they see it, as do other collectors. I can't see the CPU numbers since they are covered in dust, did you find the model number on the back of the case?

MCA machines do not have a BIOS, everything is stored in battery backed up RAM and you need a reference disk to reload that information (can be found on the net in floppy image). Since you have taken the machine apart and I don't see a battery on the board (meaning it is probably a remote battery close to the speaker) anything stored is now gone (if the battery is dead it was gone anyway so no loss). If you turn the machine on and it works you will get a bunch of error codes because the settings have been wiped. The cards you have are basic video and SCSI, the configuration files would be online. Those floppy drives are not standard (if they are the same as what IBM used), and working ones and worth selling alone (power is provided in the interface cable not a seperate plug if you like to check).

If you see an old system with brown slots instead of the normal black/white you probably have an EISA or MCA bus machine or the more common VLB is the slots are extensions to the ISA bus. You might want to look into those before taking them apart.

Wow, that's a lot to chew on considering I'm a somewhat of a novice when it comes to computer systems and how they operate, but I get the gist of it. The model number on the case is "1210". And yes, there was a small lithium battery next to the speaker mounted in the frame. Considering I've jumped the gun and already taken this thing apart, destroying the power supply in the process, is there another way to test the floppy drive? And is there a market among collectors for replacement boards/other parts?

Originally Posted by Bear

i believe you'll find it to be that little chip with the white label in the upper left corner on the motherboard photo. What numbers do you see on that label ? You might also want to google that ; )

The chip that you're refering to is labeled as follows:

150-0008390 U8
Ver. 3.1.1700
Copyright NCR 1989

I ran all parts of that through google, and it drew a complete blank.

Originally Posted by Bamcis

The chip that you're refering to is labeled as follows:

150-0008390 U8
Ver. 3.1.1700
Copyright NCR 1989

I ran all parts of that through google, and it drew a complete blank.

maybe it's another one then Bamcis, I really haven't had a chance to look back at it. If it's like Unknownk said, a 386, you'll probably looking for one with a number similar to that on it

Originally Posted by Bear

maybe it's another one then Bamcis, I really haven't had a chance to look back at it. If it's like Unknownk said, a 386, you'll probably looking for one with a number similar to that on it

Eh, That's ok. Anyway, after looking a little closer, I noticed three or four large square chips (previously obscured by dust) that were marked with the "intel" followed by the number 87. I'm thinking it might be one of those.

Originally Posted by Bamcis

By the way, while I'm at it, I want to thank all of you guys for helping me learn about all of this. Hopefully, after today's lesson, I won't make this mistake again.

Now the question remains, do I take apart the rest of these printers, electric typewriters, and other electronics, or do I take a step back and do some research first

Probably depends on the volume of stuff you get and how much you value your time. It takes time researching items, and even if they are worth more then scrap you need more time to clean and test them plus ship them. Most machines look common until you pop the cover off. Even on old common machines there can be upgrades worth a bunch of money that just get scrapped. If you get bored go look on ebay at the vintage computer subcategory for completed auctions and see what some of this stuff sells for (or doesn't sell).

Originally Posted by unknownk

Probably depends on the volume of stuff you get and how much you value your time. It takes time researching items, and even if they are worth more then scrap you need more time to clean and test them plus ship them. Most machines look common until you pop the cover off. Even on old common machines there can be upgrades worth a bunch of money that just get scrapped. If you get bored go look on ebay at the vintage computer subcategory for completed auctions and see what some of this stuff sells for (or doesn't sell).

As far as volume goes, I generally don't go out and actively search often for electronic stuff. Really, I see this as a hobby to take up my little bit of spare time that isn't already dedicated to my day job. I will take you advice though, and start checking out the online auctions and such.

Originally Posted by Bamcis

Eh, That's ok. Anyway, after looking a little closer, I noticed three or four large square chips (previously obscured by dust) that were marked with the "intel" followed by the number 87. I'm thinking it might be one of those.

A simple air compressor with a jet will fix the dust problem, just be sure you take it outside to "dust" it.
I've seen posts saying old typewriter keys sell well as "steampunk" items, but never really searched that point myself, although there's an ancient old typewriter laying in the subfloor of an old barn here that's been kicked around by more than just a few cattle. Should be right on track for that by now ; )

Originally Posted by Bear

A simple air compressor with a jet will fix the dust problem, just be sure you take it outside to "dust" it.
I've seen posts saying old typewriter keys sell well as "steampunk" items, but never really searched that point myself, although there's an ancient old typewriter laying in the subfloor of an old barn here that's been kicked around by more than just a few cattle. Should be right on track for that by now ; )

Yeah, another person mentioned the steampunk deal to me when I posted pictures of the typewriters in a thread in the "day in the life of a scrapper" section. I may just have to save the keys in a bucket and see about selling them online.

Even though ebay won't always have a record of a harder to find, particular piece, google usually will. Most sites you'll see in your search results on google won't always tell you very much though, likely a "call us for pricing", or "call for availability", etc., but, if you'll scroll through enough of them you can find information about the part there, enough to use in your own ebay listing, and if you do happen to see a (usually unrealistic) price while scrolling though those search results, it can still indicate an item which has been the object of multiple previous (specific) searches, and help give some clues as to what it is, how to describe/identify it in your own listing, and whether you'll want to begin your auction at .99, 9.95, or 24.95(all excellent beginning prices due to the stepping of ebay listing fees). Such as, if you can be certain an item will garner multiple bids, .99 gets it going fast, if you can't be certain of that, a 9.95 + shipping will at least insure your trouble will be repaid to some extent, and in cases where you hope at least one bid, and if it should be worth it, a 24.95 will at least make that bid a bit of a plus to your pocket, as well as supplying them with an item that they won't likely soon find elsewhere.
And as always, I highly recommend a ten day auction on such, harder to find, items, using the pre-listed format(completed at least 2 hours prior to actual auction "start", giving it time to be fully incorporated into their system, and visible/searchable before it actually "begins", a dime very well spent). THEN, you might be well enough prepared to succeed at acquiring the most acceptable, true market value for it
You will not find anybody anywhere stepping forward, offering to "volunteer" to you this fair market price. You will only achieve it by hard work in researching, and listing it on an "open" market. (should you choose this route, it does get easier after some experience)