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Testing a "working" dryer

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    wayne1956 started this thread.
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    Testing a "working" dryer

    When picking up a washer & dryer set, several times the people say the washer is toast, but the dryer still works. So how do you test it without unhooking your dryer and moving it out of the way? Here is something you might try. I have several I needed to test, so I built my own "extension" cord. I went to home depot and purchased a single gang box and a 3 prong 220 outlet (like what is in the wall of your utility room). I took a good 3 prong cord I had kept from a dryer I had scrapped, cut the brass fittings from the ends. I split the plastic covering of the cord about a foot to get some pliability, and inserted them through the holes of the gang box. After stripping about an inch of insulation from the end of the cord I inserted the wires into the holds of the outlet and tightened the screws down. After that was done I screwed the outlet onto the gang box and viola, I have my own extension cord. Tried it on one of my dryers I needed to test (unplugged my dryer and plugged in the extension cord without having to move my dryer), and it worked like a charm. Do not have pictures yet but will try to get some uploaded.

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    I use something similar to test dryers and power my welder. I purchased a 220 box from home depot. I then took 2 vacuum cords picked up while scrapping and stripped the ends. I connected 1 cord to the first 220 leg, then a second cord to the next 220 leg. I plug 1 vacuum cord in a regular 110 socket, plug the other vaccum cord in another 110 socket and have 220 when needed. It also has been valuable if I am away from the house and need 220 for something. If I need to weld something at a friend's home, I just take my home made 220 extension cord. No need to unplug my dryer, install a new breaker and run a 220 outlet, it's completely safe, and it all cost me about 5.00.
    Last edited by Phantoms001; 12-24-2012 at 03:19 PM.

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    I don't feel like thinking too hard today, but that doesn't seem right to me. In order to get 220 it would have to be plugged into another outlet on a different phase. I don't think it would work if you plug it into separate receptacles on the same circuit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by billygoat View Post
    I don't feel like thinking too hard today, but that doesn't seem right to me. In order to get 220 it would have to be plugged into another outlet on a different phase. I don't think it would work if you plug it into separate receptacles on the same circuit.
    Your correct, which is why I use 2 vacuum cords (they are long enough to reach a 2nd circuit). You can't plug 1 into the top outlet and one in the bottom outlet. Usually I don't have a problem finding 2 close circuits. Personally it works well because I have 2 circuits in my garage. If I am elsewhere, I would usually run one to the garage and one inside. Usually they will be separate. It's not perfect because of the problem you described, but it gives me a lot of flexibility.

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    Yeah, that would work.

    Anyone thinking about doing this, keep two things in mind. One, use two complete cords. If there is no neutral with the hot wire, it will get hot and could start a fire. Two, only use it long enough to see if the dryer will start, then shut the dryer off immediately. The vacuum cleaner sized wires are too small to carry the load. Hopefully, the breaker will trip if the wires get too hot but don't plan on it.

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    The house I lived in TN had a bedroom 220 AC I removed, and later needed a 220 out front, so I pulled the wire from that AC plug under the house and out the front, and put an AC plug out there for testing 220v ACs. The porch was up off the ground, so when I was done I'd roll it up, and stick it under the porch out of sight, and turn off the breaker to it at the box. The romex rolled up easily without harming it, just using the same pattern it already had in it since coming off the spool

    When I started building my trailer, I bought a 220v welder at harbor freight, and swapped out plugs on the 220v line to fit the welder

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    Just make sure they work and heat. LOL

    Alot of them go to the curb because someone usually didn't bother to keep the ductwork clean and blew the thermostat. Usually a simple check with an ohm meter, and $10 to $15 in parts unless you scrounge one from a donor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantoms001 View Post
    I use something similar to test dryers and power my welder. I purchased a 220 box from home depot. I then took 2 vacuum cords picked up while scrapping and stripped the ends. I connected 1 cord to the first 220 leg, then a second cord to the next 220 leg. I plug 1 vacuum cord in a regular 110 socket, plug the other vaccum cord in another 110 socket and have 220 when needed. It also has been valuable if I am away from the house and need 220 for something. If I need to weld something at a friend's home, I just take my home made 220 extension cord. No need to unplug my dryer, install a new breaker and run a 220 outlet, it's completely safe, and it all cost me about 5.00.

    Is there any way you can post pics of your method? And what happens if only one of the two ciruit breakers trips? Would that burn up your 220v appliance? Also, wouldn't using a bigger extension cord be better, like one from a floor buffer or burnisher, which uses minimum 12/3 AWG. I serviced vacuums and floor buffers for years, the largest cords I saw on vacuums were 14/3.


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    Quote Originally Posted by kane333 View Post
    And what happens if only one of the two ciruit breakers trips? Would that burn up your 220v appliance?
    If you use a two-pole 30 amp breaker then you won't have that problem. The two switches are tied together so that if one phase trips the whole thing turns off.

    Quote Originally Posted by kane333 View Post
    Also, wouldn't using a bigger extension cord be better, like one from a floor buffer or burnisher, which uses minimum 12/3 AWG. I serviced vacuums and floor buffers for years, the largest cords I saw on vacuums were 14/3.
    Actually, you should use a minimum of 10 AWG for your wires to the dryer. That's why I said in my previous post that if you use anything smaller than what is rated for the dryer, only use it to quickly determine if it works and then shut the dryer off immediately.
    Last edited by billygoat; 12-26-2012 at 04:48 PM.

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    Gee, I'm glad we only have 240V AC & 'Three phase' here in NZ...

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    wayne1956 started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curbside shopper View Post
    Just make sure they work and heat. LOL

    Alot of them go to the curb because someone usually didn't bother to keep the ductwork clean and blew the thermostat. Usually a simple check with an ohm meter, and $10 to $15 in parts unless you scrounge one from a donor.
    That is why I like my extension cord made out of a dryer cord. I can leave it plugged in long enough to make sure the dryer heats up properly without having to worry about the cord heating up too much. Plus I can test the dryer just outside the utility room door on the porch, and when the dust blows out of the vent hole it will blow on the porch, not in my utility room.

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    gustavus is offline Metal Recycling Entrepreneur
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantoms001 View Post
    I use something similar to test dryers and power my welder. I purchased a 220 box from home depot. I then took 2 vacuum cords picked up while scrapping and stripped the ends. I connected 1 cord to the first 220 leg, then a second cord to the next 220 leg. I plug 1 vacuum cord in a regular 110 socket, plug the other vaccum cord in another 110 socket and have 220 when needed. It also has been valuable if I am away from the house and need 220 for something. If I need to weld something at a friend's home, I just take my home made 220 extension cord. No need to unplug my dryer, install a new breaker and run a 220 outlet, it's completely safe, and it all cost me about 5.00.
    The potential danger using a pair of 110 outlets to get 220 volts is that should one outlet be wired improperly ie: reversed neutral.

    You can purchase a cheap tester to make sure the plugs are wired properly before attempting the procedure outline above, I use a multi meter to assure power is only coming from the hole in the outlet made for the small prong of the plug.


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