Simple Tractor - Page 2

Originally Posted by Bear

well, i had to go find a photo of it, this look anything like yours biscuit? I don't have a picture of the rear end, but i think they're a little different.[IMG][/IMG]

Not even close, your frame is larger and it looks to have leaf springs, judging by the rear hub my guess id that you have a touring car. Do not destroy the frame, you may have to dissisemble the differenctial to get part numbers from the crown and pinion to indentify the car.

Serial number stamping into the frame and other odd places is rather new in terms of technology and theft prevention.

A word of caution a simple axle nut could bring you a decent price to be carful when your taking it apart, use a bit of heat and plenty of penertrating oil. An air impact works best, once the nut start to move the impact keeps it moving.



Now to indentfy your frame, good luck and may you be on the road to riches, I love old iron.

cool! have you ever tried water in lieu of penetrating oil? you might be very surprised. I once had a block with a stuck piston that I was hoisting a one ton van and dropping onto it trying to free it up. I was asleep when my brother called from work to tell me this, wash all that oil out of there real good with gas, let it dry, then soak it in water, tap it around a while, and try again. When i woke up thought i musta been dreaming, he called back and asked if i'd tried it, i did after that. After getting the oil out and the water in it broke right loose, while i was still just tapping around on it.
Apparently oil coats the surface rust but doesn't penetrate, but water soaks right in ( water is btw what got it rusted in the first place ; ) My first coarse of action on freeing an old rusty part now is to soak or spray it with water a few times over several minutes, get it moving, then, add the oil (don't tell this secret to liquid wrench, they'll never forgive ya)

those pipes that you can see from the frame to the rear axle aren't shocks, but pipes tack welded in place to keep it from bottoming out with big loads. That piece of steel out by Dad's old tractor looks a lot like the bumper on that 31 photo you posted

Originally Posted by Bear

those pipes that you can see from the frame to the rear axle aren't shocks, but pipes tack welded in place to keep it from bottoming out with big loads. That piece of steel out by Dad's old tractor looks a lot like the bumper on that 31 photo you posted

That style of bumber was commonly used on a lot of different cas and trucks, its the ach in the frame over the differenctial that tells me it has leaf springs. The large hud indicates touring car. Fron what I see I'm not going to venture a guess as to who made the car.

If I have a piston thats seized I know it's toast anyhow so I drill it full of holes to weaken it then break the aluminum out letting it fall into the oil pan. Cast iron pistons are much easier to get unstuck as the piston and block are made of similar metals so you do not get that horrible elctylisis working as you do with aluminum and cast iron.

I use penertrating oil, place a solid peice of brass on top on the piston then use the air chisel with a blunt chisel to set up vinbration to work the oil in, old wisconsin engines where you can remove the cyclder along with a seized piston I have made a steel plate with the same bolt patten as the cylinder head with a grease zek bolted onto the cylinder then pumped it full of grease.

Water generally comes in from the topside leaving the undeside of the piston and cylinder reasonably free of rust allowing easy removal of the piston through the bottomside. I would only try to salvage a piston if there were no replacements avaialable, otherwise go with an oversized new one.

A good machinist can turn out a new piston and rings, unfortuanely I'm not in that class.

yeah, i think you're right about it having leaf springs. The water i was just talking about freeing rusty parts/bolts etc

Originally Posted by Bear

yeah, i think you're right about it having leaf springs. The water i was just talking about freeing rusty parts/bolts etc

Heat oxidizes the rust into oblivion, also expands the nut or bolt, you never want to get the bolt too hot otherwise your only making it worse. With a bit of practice you can torch off a nut and not touch the thrads on the bolt your removing the nut from.

If I have a big peice of equipment to torch that has lots of large nuts to save on oxygen I'll split the nut on two sides then give it a whack with a heavy hammer to remove the halves. then push the bolt clear.