All About Keyboard Mylars - Page 3

I wonder if that's the guy I think it is..from GRF. Thanks for the info Bump. I remember reading a thread over there on someone who did that, got quite a few folks if I remember the thread correctly.



Sirscrapalot - Scammers are on the same level as thieves, not worth my time, or the cost of a bullet.

Yup, that's the one. I remember reading the thread. Thanks for the info Bump, an confirming. I know GRF gave him several chances to make right, an finally released the ban hammer on him.

Shame what some folks will do. I hope he wasn't lying about the wife, cause thats just asking for some bad karma.

Sirscrapalot - ^l^ -

I weighed out 150 sheets & the average weight of one sheet is 7.9 grams.

There were a few sheets with real solid thick silver lines, but the best one was the ergonomic one.

Hello all, I have been reading the posts here and I want to clear quite a few things up so you can decide on facts yourself.

1. I was a member over a GRF, but I'm not anymore.
2. Every person that sent me mylars to refine received all their silver. There is no one on the forum I owe any silver, nor mylars to. Go find out.
3. My wife was ill with gall blatter/stones, and she been sick for quite a few months (2013 - 2014).
4. My Diverticulitis got real bad in Nov 2014 (when I got banned from the forum) and then Dec 11, 2014 I had to have an emergency surgery for my diverticulitis and didn't leave the hospital until Dec 25, 2014. Right now I have a colostomy. Mine isn't permanent, but I still have one. Hopefully I'll get it reversed this year. Pray for me.
5. During my wife's illness and plus mine too, I took on too much and I was sick much of the time. That's my fault and no one else's
6. I did make a public apology on the forum in 2014, so saying I didn't apologize is not true.
7. My yield data was not correct for one main reason, reading on how to refine mylars. The method that 99% of people use to refine silver from mylars is flawed. My yields have gone up and are consistent due to me learning a different way that saves time and money.
8. I have data that supports my yield data for mylars, along with how many mylars per lb and the average yield per mylar. It took me years to learn this method.

Now, the other reason I am making this post is to inform you that within a few weeks I'll be BUYING keyboard mylars from anyone that is selling them. I am still working on my website and it should be finished within this month or the beginning of next month.

Below is the criteria, so pay attention:

a) No laptop mylars
b) No blanks
c) No black/carbon mylars

I have photos of the many different mylars I'll be accepting and I'll put them up in my next post so you can check to see if you have them. I have a base price per lb I will pay for. All information will be on the website asap.

PayPal is the only method I am using for payment to you, unless we can agree on something else like (Postal Money Order) or Wire Transfer.

Payment is by the lb of mylars. I will be paying more for some of the exotic mylars. Once, and if you have a steady supply of mylars and we build a relationship, I will pay you in advance (PayPal - no exceptions) for them, then you ship.

If you have something personal you want to say or ask, please do me a favor and pm it because this thread was created to discuss keyboard mylars and that's all.


Thanks for your time!

Thanks for the update Kevin.
I hope you get well soon.
Jim

Originally Posted by jimicrk

Thanks for the update Kevin.
I hope you get well soon.
Jim

Thanks Jim, it's been an uphill battle. It took 4 moths to get my equilibrium where I could stand without falling or losing my balance.

Below are some of the mylars I'm accepting. See if you have them.

I would run the mylars through a paper shredder, then tumble the pulp in a small mill with an abrasive to wear the silver free from the mylar. Be sure to use water to rise off the pulp removed from the tumbler this way your sure to recover all your silver.

Silver is a very soft metal so a few hours in the mill should be enough time to remove any silver present on the plastic mylars.

Alloy2 - Interesting that you mentioned this, as I had already thought of a heavy duty paper shredder as a first step. Then build a "rock tumbler" type device to separate the silver from mylar. I don't want to hijack this thread, maybe more appropriate for a new thread on this subject. So will leave it at that!

During my experimental stages of processing mylars, I took one sheet and used my heat gun to shrink it down to a ball smaller than a corn kernel. I forget what I weighed it at, but it was almost not readable on a gram scale. But my goal was to take a lb of them and try to slowly heat them to shrink them down considerably, and then put them on high heat, enough to make them brittle and possibly ash up and (or) break apart, leaving the silver in a ball or a pile. I never finished doing it that way.

But I think that if a person do a slow/low heating of the mylars (maybe a day or longer) they should shrink down enough without losing any silver from flying away, it should be condensed enough to apply higher heat to burn off more plastic until most or enough of it's gone to be able to process them further, or to crush them more and to keep the heat going.

If I were to attempt this experiment like I'm describing it, it would be better to do in the winter time, being as though I could justify using that much heat outside.

If I had a fast way to do each sheet or a pile of them at a time using a heat gun, I would because it only took seconds to shrink a mylar down to the size of a small pearl.

Although I don't use any incineration in my processing of the mylars, I wouldn't mind giving a try at a 1 lb batch. I incinerated them in a grill before and I lost silver in the soot going in the air, so open incineration will cause you to lose silver. A closed incinerator with a long tube pipe chimney about 6 ft going up, with a 60 mesh wire screen would allow the smoke and soot to escape and should keep the silver from going up that high.


On another note: Look at the photo below. Are you processing the tabs that have the red markers around them? If not, you're not getting all your silver and your yields will be lower than expected.

Using a heat gun on mylars will produce off gassing, fumes harmfull to your health.

For those that have more ambition than I, you could probably scrap the conductive silver ink free from the mylars using a paint scraper. To be effective you would have to place a smooth solid sheet under the mylar.

Save the powder that comes off this will be your silver.

Originally Posted by alloy2

Using a heat gun on mylars will produce off gassing, fumes harmfull to your health.

For those that have more ambition than I, you could probably scrap the conductive silver ink free from the mylars using a paint scraper. To be effective you would have to place a smooth solid sheet under the mylar.

Save the powder that comes off this will be your silver.

I think I'll just save mine for now.

Hello Kevin, I hope this message finds you well and all is good. Thank you for sharing this good information.
I'm inquiring as to if you have processed the LCD Backing Sheets that are coated in Silver as of yet. If so, how did your results turn out?
Also, I am looking for a buyer for my Mylar Silver Stamped Keyboard Sheets, I currently have about 25-30 pounds. As well as, I'm looking for a buyer for my Mylar Silver Coated LCD Backing Sheets, I have about 75-100 pounds. Please feel free to let me know if you or if anyone of you all are interested in buying these. Thank you.

Originally Posted by mrmylar

Hello members,

Since I refine keyboard mylars for the silver they contain, I know a little bit about the yields and so forth and what can reasonably be expected per lb.

Every mylar is not made the same, nor do they contain the same amount of silver in them. As a matter of fact, some mylars don't contain silver at all, but are carbon. And some mylars have silver and carbon covering them, which can make recovering the silver very hard, but not impossible.

* There is an average of 78 mylars to equal 1 lb.
* 1 lb of mylars will yield around 12 - 15 grams of silver
* 1 lb of mylars will yield a different amount of silver than another mylar.
* It takes approximately 2 lbs of mylar to yield around 1 ozT of silver.

There are many types of mylars out there, and I have come across mylars that contain silver but I have no idea of what component they came out of. I'm going to post pictures of them and if someone can tell where they come out of, I'm going to compile that information so that way if I can get at least 2 lbs of them I can give an accurate yield data on them.

Some of the mylars I am processing right now I feel that if I had at least 2 lbs of them, they would probably yield more than 1 ozT of silver.

I also had some rectangular sheets sent to me that are 100% silver on one side of them. No lines or anything else, just the whole thing coated with silver. I'm sure those will yield around 1ozT of silver from just 1 lb of them. I wish I had more to determine the yields.

When I process them for others it's hard to tell which types yields what amount due to not having at least 1 - 2 lbs of that type. So, when I process them, I combine them all together, but, if I have pounds of a particular type (standard keyboards, PBX phones, etc,.) I do process them separately so I can get the yields from them.


Kevin

One AC elbow contains enough silver to make four keyboard mylars of which the conductive silver is applied as an ink via silkscreen or by some other type of printer which would be much faster.

Copper heated to anneal and burn off residual oil, next compress into bricks then melt into anodes for further refining in a copper parting cell.

Originally Posted by mrmylar

You would have a big mess and very little silver recovered, if any at all. The first mistake would be shredding them.

What I meant to add is that when using shredders, mills and other devices that causes friction WILL make the mylar/plastic melt and stick to each other and you'll have trapped silver in the melted plastic.

I've been there and done that! It will not work.

Your claim above is a flat out lie we're dealing with keyboard Mylars not old cellulose film. If Mylars were an issue of melting I would have suggested to run them wet.