I Want to talk TRUCKS! Trucks for Hauling Trailers! Diesel Vs Gas.. 2500 vs 3500 etc.

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Originally Posted by taterjuice

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Originally Posted by KzScrapper

I'm a big fan of the "no payment" as well. If the old set up was working ok then the new set up should be an upgrade and should be an improvement till the right thing comes along.

I don't get too many cars but the car hauler and winch gets put to work for other things. My Ford E150 gets the call 99% of the time but fortunately I have the F250 on standby if need be. What the F250 needs is drum conversion up front and since discs were an option everything appears to be available off the shelf, just need to take the time to do it. After I do I'm sure I will be kicking myself for not making it more of a priority.

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Converting front brakes from disc to drum, am I understanding you correctly ? Im curious to what the benefit of this is.

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I think he means converting from drums to disks.

Sorry Tater after reading that over, it does sound like I'm going to drums, but no want to go to discs.

If you got a full floating rear end it's a pretty cheap fix, buddy of mine did his old school Chevy for under 400$. And than after that it only cost 20$ to replace the rear brakes

Well after a bunch of time on the internet doing research, dropping cash, getting parts and installation. All is installed and ready to rock!
Upgrades to the 1500:
New 4/1 Leaf Springs
New Front Hubs (Both Sides)
New Powerstop Brake Pads all the way around
New Fuel Pump
New Fuel Filter

Got a Blazer on the trailer at the moment.. so once her fate is decided upon. She'll either be hauled to a new home.. or the yard. Looking forward to putting the trailer on in daylight tomorrow, and seeing how much less squat I have, as well as when I haul- how well the new "Towing specific" pads help in assisting stopping the load. Trailer brakes themselves do most of the work- but with new hubs and upgraded pads- I no longer get the GM "under 5mph.. anti-lock brake kick in." It is wonderful!!

thats good i hope it all works out good for you.

Just some info in case anyone else has this decision in the future:
The 4/1 Leaf pack replacing the 2/1 OEM leaf pack is a stellar upgrade. It is pricey, but man is it worth it.
I had a guy tell me it was a complete waste of $ and that I should have put "Coil Over Shocks" on instead of replacing the leaf springs.
To recap on it- Shocks absorb the bumps from the road- they are not intended to "hold weight" that is what the leaf springs job is.

The 4/1 leaf pack added 1.5" lift to the rear-end when empty:
Empty Truck with 2/1 Leaf Pack (from ground to top of fender well): 36 5/8"
Empty Truck with 4/1 Leaf Pack (from ground to top of fender well): 38 1/8"

The ride difference is virtually un-noticeable (read: No kidney jarring, buckboard wagon feel)

I even hooked up the trailer yesterday WITHOUT my weight distribution hitch and it only sagged about 3/4 of an inch- with trailer and a 96 Chevy blazer on it.

Just wanted to add this to the mix to "sum it all up" in case anyone has this issue in their minds down the road!

Glad to hear it's working out Sledge.

I'll second that.

Ride -rite air bags by Firestone. Put these on a 3/4 ton truck they are easy to install they run about $250 depending if you get the kit with on board compressor. It gives you the extra firm suspension for towing when you need it and when you don't you can let air out and soften your ride back to stock. I put them on wife's excursion it will handle anything I want to haul and still let wife and kids ride in comfort. Just my experience.

Mapman