Towing vs Hauling

I hope I'm in the right forum section.

Anyways, I have a question. I'm purging a lot of the "worthless" E-Waste that we have to make room for a computer refurbishing center. I'm moving gutted printers, scanners, computer cases, gutted, iMac G3s....

I get paid $0.05 per pound for this stuff. It'll cost me $50 in fuel to make a trip. I'm using a 1987 Chevrolet 1/2 ton truck, so I can haul about 1200#, for a day's profit of $10.

Now, I've towed more than 1200# with the truck. For shorter distances. I have 125 miles to go each way. Am I better to keep putting loads in the beds, or would it be best to hitch up the trailer? I don't want to damage the truck, and I cannot afford a larger truck for this project. We have a 3/4 ton being fixed up for us, but it'll be a while before it's ready for us.

This is the truck and trailer in question:


The trailer is rated for 5000# gross, and has brakes. The truck has a 305, 700R4, and an unknown rear end (I'm guessing a 3.31). Chevrolet didn't release towing numbers that I'm aware of.



What would you do?

Thanks for the help!

Done and done!

My father burned out a few E4ODs that way. His loads were heavier, but I still keep in in drive to be on the safe side. Plus, I like to go slowly when hauling/towing anyways. It gives me more time if an emergency comes up.

Of course I'd like to maximize my trips as much as possible. I'm just not sure which way is best. I'd assume that it would be safe to tow over 1200# of stuff on a trailer, but I'll defer to those who know more than I do (Almost anyone!)

What Chevrolet used were called RPO codes (Regular Porduction Options?). They put all of these on a label in the glovebox. It looks like this (Not my truck, though):


All of the codes mean something. It could be an engine size, suspension package, or just color-coded seatbelts. There isn't one for towing. The truck originally was rated for 5200# GVW (Truck + Payload). Being a 2x4 model with no options, 1300# puts me right around 5200# with me in it.

The bumper hitch is rated for 7500#, and looks factory to me. The RPO code for the axle says that I have a 2.76 rear end, but I'm not buying it. According to a table of options, that axle was only offered with a 350. I have either a 3.08 or a 3.73 from the factory. What's there now is anyone's guess.

My 1995 F150 could barely move a 5000# load down the road with the 3.31 axle. This truck pulled a similar trailer at 60 MPH without breaking a sweat. A manual in the Ford can't make it that bad, can it?

Being a 30 year old truck, I don't know it's history. We bought it in 1996, but as for what the last owner did- all bets are off.

I can't find any towing numbers from Chevrolet on these old beasts.

If my understanding is correct, pulling a load is easier than carrying it, correct? Would you be better off with that load on a trailer, opposed to on the truck bed? 1300# fills the truck up. If I were to dump that load on a trailer, would the truck do better? Would it do worse? Would it matter that much?

It would be nice. Sadly, our guy works on his own schedule. It may be ready next week, or it may not be ready until July. He still has projects from when I bought my Buick over two years ago. He's good, but not quick!

The trailer does have brakes. We do have a receiver hitch on there now (Didn't in the picture).

Thanks Metalbestos for the RPO code list. I saw a shorter list before, but apparently there are trailer towing codes. It's probably the closest we'll get to actual numbers from GM.

The closest comparison numbers I could find were from Ford. This is for the 1993 F150s:


For the 5.0L V8, Auto transmission, and the 3.08 ratio, I'd be able to tow a 5000# trailer. We'll call the Chevrolet rating 4000# until I can check the numbers. Now, for the Ford, the 3.55 ratio actually lowers the tow rating????

I thought I had a graasp on the concept. This is really starting to get confusing!

Can I ask why your not charging for removal? You realize every time you haul with a trailer, every single time you put the hitch on the ball you should stuff 20 bucks somewhere for a transmission overhaul. We (me too) drive and use half ton trucks for 3/4 ton purposes. Knowing all this, and knowing a beefier truck is not an option, sock away twenty bucks every time you tow or haul something truly heavy for that inevitable moment your transmission fails. Likewise the 305 doesn't last forever either working hard down low. I charge to take carcasses UNLESS I am getting significant e waste to go with the lot. a fist full of memory does not quantify the wear and tear on my truck for hundred dollar on the ton sheet iron.

I guess if it's for a long standing client that's different, or if your trying to get your foot in the door...exceptions to be made and all that.

Originally Posted by armygreywolf

Can I ask why your not charging for removal?...I guess if it's for a long standing client that's different, or if your trying to get your foot in the door...exceptions to be made and all that.

I got a lot of usable stuff. I have about 10 pickup truck loads (No trailer) of junk to haul out, but I took in over 30 Intel iMacs that I sold, over 10 iBook G4s that I sold, and about 10 Quad core Mac Pros that I sold. My computer store has been well-packed with their stuff for the last three years. I have over 75 Core 2 Duo Dell desktops that are ready for refurbishing.

And, I didn't get the gutted cases. I gutted them, and sold the RAM/Motherboard/.... This is just what I have left from the process- things like iMac G4s that are essentially an LCD screen attached to an empty base.

I shouldn't complain- I've made over $10k from these two clients, and that money has helped to pay off the building that is now my office. I just have a ton of junk to remove before I can really get going on the refurbishing.

If I had the money, I'd go and find a cheap Chevy 2500. I don't have $1500 to spend for 10 trips, though.

@BCrepurposing Can you explain how you load? How much weight do you put on the bed, and how does that correspond against tongue weight? Are you better to put 500# or so in the bed, or are you best to put it in the front of the trailer, and leave the truck bed itself empty (Or close to)???

The last load that was a combination tow/haul I did was in the picture. I drove it about 75 miles in Drive. There was about 900# in the bed, and another 2000# on the trailer (Not counting the weight of the trailer itself). The trans temperature (Have a gauge in there) stayed about right- maybe 10-20 degrees warmer. I'm just a little shy on the whole idea- this is a longer trip.

Keep the thoughts coming! I've already learned a lot here!

I dont even know where to start.But the first thing is why are you driving 250 miles to make $10 or better yet at all for that matter.
I would load the truck and trailer and roll with it.Or you could just load it all on the trailer

We don't have any yard closer to us. We're in Wyoming, where there is nothing but miles and miles of miles and miles. It's either this or the landfill. I won't send stuff to the landfill for moral reasons, and it would cost more. I'm one of the only E-Waste processors in the entire state.

If my truck can handle a load on the trailer, I'd be for it. I'm trying to get some numbers for what I can expect to do. I'd rather break even on loads than kill the truck. I'm interested in hearing some scrap loading tips, and other things. For example BC mentioned splitting the load- some on the trailer and some on the truck. Does anybody have any recommendations on how to split the load?

If I can haul 2500# on the trailer with nothing on the bed, instead of breaking even, I'd be making $75 per trip instead of breaking even. That's a lot better! Now, how much weight is a resonable number???

The iMac G3s are essentially a CRT with nothing of value now. I've pulled the logic board, hdd, ram, and the degausser cable. This is just the sludge from the process if you will. (Except the scanners- they just go straight to shred).

The brakes are in good shape. The trailer ones were checked this spring, and the truck has new rear shoes and drums.

No problem with the smart-a$$ stuff. It's understandable. I was hoping someone used a similar truck and would have some insight there.

So, just load the trailer and leave the truck bare? Seems simple enough to me!

Trust me, I'm not going over 5000# on the trailer. The flooring is a little sketchy in spots, and that would concern me with being too much weight.

I was figuring on about 2500# load, plus 1500# for the trailer, for 4000# total. Does this seem reasonable?