Another idea would be to try doing soil cement....not fully up on the details but its something like covering the gravel with a few inches of a sandy/clay mixture, then tilling in portland cement powder (with water) and using a packer to pound it flat. Seems to me it was used a lot to stiffen up prairie roads in the old days. Obviously not as strong as real cement (no rebar and not as much portland) but a heck of a lot less costly.
Maybe one of the guys here has experience with it and can add some information.
If you are stuck with heating without using wood, your only alternatives are (1) going with the UL approved stuff like you mentioned....gas, propane, electric, all the stuff that costs like heck to install and run.
If you have any space at all (and from what you have said in the past you don't) then you could consider remote wood heat, and use water to transfer the heat to your house and shop. Also, you could use waste oil to substitute for the wood heat. Either waste cooking oil or waste mineral (motor) oil. Depending on your insurance company, the remote heater has to be anywhere from 40 to 100 feet from the house. Didn't know the insurance co. cared a rats butt about a shop or garage, but if it is too close to the house it adds to the fire hazard. Also, being in town, there usually are bylaws about woodstoves and the like that may put you outta business anyway.
How about getting one of those waste blocks of nuclear waste that they encase in glass blocks and they stay red hot for like 5000 years? Bury one of them under your shop floor!
Jon. ...busy inventing perpetual motion....
Bookmarks