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Corrosion

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  1. #1
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    Corrosion

    A very long time ago I had posted in a thread that we should all install an anode on our trucks and trailers to extend their life expectancy, in my case tractors that are going to be stored for long periods.

    I have one probe of the OHM meter tucked behind a beauty ring against bare metal then as I poke the other probe into the damp earth the circuit has been completed, the meter registers a current is present, yes that is galvanic corrosion in action. My truck is being turned into a pile of rust as it sits in the driveway.





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    There's a few problems with the idea, I looked into it too.
    The idea of Anodes on a ship works because the whole ships immersed in water and becomes one huge circuit, with a few variables. So several Anodes spaced over the ship will do the job of being the 'Sacrificial Anodes'.
    You just replace them as they sacrifice themselves to corrosion.

    But in a vehicle, its made of lots of individual peices of metal and forms one larger one. At each connection of metal and expressly at connect joins between different metals, and around electrical earths, individual circuits set themselves up and cause local corrosion.

    The answer is to cover the whole surface of metal in Zinc.
    And the surface coating will help stop corrosion in scratches up to a certain point too. But a sacrificial anode on a vehicle won't work near as well as it does on a boat.

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    alloy2 started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by eesakiwi View Post
    There's a few problems with the idea, I looked into it too.
    The idea of Anodes on a ship works because the whole ships immersed in water and becomes one huge circuit, with a few variables. So several Anodes spaced over the ship will do the job of being the 'Sacrificial Anodes'.
    You just replace them as they sacrifice themselves to corrosion.

    But in a vehicle, its made of lots of individual peices of metal and forms one larger one. At each connection of metal and expressly at connect joins between different metals, and around electrical earths, individual circuits set themselves up and cause local corrosion.

    The answer is to cover the whole surface of metal in Zinc.
    And the surface coating will help stop corrosion in scratches up to a certain point too. But a sacrificial anode on a vehicle won't work near as well as it does on a boat.
    Small boast plugged into shore power, one boat owner neglects to keep his anodes replaced. That boat with poor anodes will eat anodes from all the other boats sharing shore power from that side of the electrical circuit.

    Boat owners can purchase a shore power isolation unit called a galvanic isolator.

    We in North America use a lot of salt on our roads during the winter months to melt snow and ice and this is where I believe having a sacrificial anode attached to your truck or trailer will help preserve your investment.

    Live anywhere near the ocean you'll experience a lot of rust on your vehicle, moisture in the air combined with salt loves metals.

    Here are some tests I did this afternoon.

    The tractor has no battery and the engine removed, the OHM meter registers electric current. Because the tractor is mainly cast iron and steel the current is low.

    The aluminum crate however is made from aluminum and this metal is more reactive, the OHM meter registers a much higher current. The tote sits on a plastic pallet so its normally insulated from the ground.

    This is electrolysis at work, metal ions turning into oxides.








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    alloy2 started this thread.
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    Why do I need a galvanic isolator?
    When do I need a galvanic isolator?
    * Whenever you connect to shore power mains supplies. An isolator offers reduced corrosion & extended life of anodes.
    * Leave your shore power connected enabling use of frost heaters & battery charging without the risk of added corrosion associated with shore power connections.
    * Essential in the marina environment to control both stray & galvanic currents.
    * When you need to stop other vessels using your anodes!
    When you plug into mains shore power the cable you use has 3 internal cables: A live, a neutral & an earth wire. The earth wire goes to the shore power pedestal where it is physically connected to the ground. This is a safety wire and protects you in the case of an electrical problem.
    Your neighbouring boats also use the same earth connection. This effectively connects all the boats together via the earth cables in the shore power leads. In your boat the shore power earth lead goes to your electrical consumer unit & then to all metal components such as the engine block, fuel tanks, shafts/ propellers etc & then finally connects to your anodes. Unfortunately as all the boats (and metal pontoons) are now interconnected via the earth cables any voltage leaks or "galvanically" generated voltages have an easy path between the boats. This often results in rapid loss of sacrificial anodes & increased corrosion of all underwater metals. If the boat next to you does not have anodes he won't worry: He is using yours!
    To control this problem we install a galvanic isolator in the earth wire as it comes to your boat. The isolator is an electronic switch which is "Turned off " (open circuit). This stops any low level damaging voltages from entering your vessel & protects your anodes and underwater metals. In the rare case of an electrical short circuit on board your vessel the isolator immediately "turns on" (short circuits) connecting you to earth for safety. The isolator works in perfect conjunction with fuses, circuit breakers and RCD safety devices. It is a solid state device & resets itself once the electrical fault has been rectified.
    A galvanic isolator does not replace your sacrificial anodes which are essential to protect your underwater metals from interaction of metals.
    A galvanic isolator does offer protection from stray currents & galvanic currents which attack your boat via the shore power earth cable. These currents can transmit from other boats, metal pontoons & leaks on the 240 volt systems in the marina. Serious leaks can devastate your props / shafts/ anodes etc in a matter of weeks. Surveyors & boat inspectors will usually recommend fitting a galvanic isolator in the marina environment (They see the effects of unprotected boats all too often).
    Safeshore isolators have a proven track record for quality & reliability. We are always pleased to help and advise if in doubt!
    Tel 01977 513607 mob 07711 849426 or email : safeshoremarineuk@gmail.com


    I'd like to know a bit more!
    For more information please click on this link: Please feel free to print : Galvanic corrosion : The facts
    HOME
    When do I not need a galvanic isolator?
    * If you never use a shore power connection and you have no electrical connection to earth.
    * If your boat is completely"Earth free" i.e. It has no electrical connection to shore power earth.
    * If you simply use an electrical extension mains lead for occassional use of power drills etc.( Always use an RCD for protection!)
    * If you always use an onboard generator or invertor to generate your electrical power & never connect to shore power pedestals





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