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  1. #1
    Proton started this thread.

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    46RE, 47RE, 48RE Dodge Chrysler Jeep transmission

    If anyone is stripping these transmissions down to get clean aluminium price, I'm in need of a couple of parts.

    The fellow who previously rebuilt the 46RE left out a thrust washer which lead to a premature burn out of the overdrive clutch packs then I need an 0.060 snap ring from the rear forward drum.

    The current snap ring measures 0.088" thick which is much to tight against the clutch pack.

    It's the snap ring from this package that I need in an 0.060.

    https://postimg.cc/image/jgbo886yf/





  2. #2
    Proton started this thread.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Proton View Post
    If anyone is stripping these transmissions down to get clean aluminium price, I'm in need of a couple of parts.

    The fellow who previously rebuilt the 46RE left out a thrust washer which lead to a premature burn out of the overdrive clutch packs then I need an 0.060 snap ring from the rear forward drum.

    The current snap ring measures 0.088" thick which is much to tight against the clutch pack.

    It's the snap ring from this package that I need in an 0.060.

    https://postimg.cc/image/jgbo886yf/

    Readers may disregard this request, made a call to one of the transmission shops that I used to sell cores to years ago that operated as a father and son operation.

    Bill Sr. and Bill Jr. learned this morning that the father passed away several years ago and that the son retired last year and that one of the long time shop employee's purchased the business.

    Gord the new owner is ordering the parts I need to complete my transmission rebuild, thankfully I do not have a customer waiting on the return of his vehicle standing over my shoulder. I'm not that good at dealing with an impatient public.

    The transmission is for a personal project, I bought a 96 Dakota in mint rust free condition. Previous owner removed the automatic transmission then found that the replacement trans would fit behind the V6 but not communicate with the ECU or the TCM.

    The transmission he had purchased used was a 44RH which uses a mechanical governor with mechanically linked shift linkage, the 96 Dakota was the first year Chrysler used the electronically controlled transmission.

    I spent the best part of a month looking for the electronic transmission, plenty of 4x4 stuff out there but I needed a transmission for a 2 wheel drive, fortunately I found one from a 97 Dodge Ram 1500.

    The Ram with the larger 5.2 engine uses a beefier 46RE transmission, by using the torque converter from the V8 engine it will work behind the smaller V6.

    Scrap yard wanted $550.00 for a core then another $250.00 for a return core, they sill have their core and my folding currency is still in my pocket.

    The rebuild kit I purchased came with frictions, new steels and seals $220.00 with another $120.00 for a new torque converter, probably could have reused the old one. But on these lock up converters there is no drain plug and no sure way to flush them totally clean, it's not the burnt oil but the metal filings that will come back to haunt you.

    The 46RE looks identical the the 42 and 44Re the later are used behind engines of lesser horse power while the 46RE used with gasoline engines while its sister transmissions the 47 and 48RE's you'll find behind the earlier diesels.

    With the larger internal parts having more mass I'm probably going to be sacrificing fuel mileage, but on the other hand the new rebuilt 46RE will probably outlive the truck.

    For those contemplating a rebuild it's not that difficult, most of the jigs used for compressing the various springs are easy to make in the home shop, the spring used on the rear overdrive is compressed to 800 lbs. You need a hydraulic bench press to remove the snap ring that keeps this heavy spring under pressure or a pre-paid funeral plan.

    Plenty of youtube videos out there but most only give half of the story, your best bet is to purchase the rebuild manual then build your transmission to spec.

  3. #3
    Proton started this thread.

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    For you scrap guys pulling a trailer with heavy loads behind your gasoline powered Dodge you can beef up that 46RE by using some of the heavy duty internals from the 48RE, add a few more frictions.

    Chrysler in their effort to install a 4 speed overdrive automatic goofed on the design but only had one choice in routing the transmission fluid, oil from the cooler return first enters the OD section first. The trans pump circulates this oil at 20 gpm the stock cooler in most cases is not sufficient when towing.

    And this is why you have the ability to switch off the overdrive while towing in doing so this keeps the oil temperature down this in itself indicates the overdrive section is prone to heat failure.

    Even with the overdrive in the off position while towing a lot of heat is being generated do yourself a favour and install a larger aftermarket oil cooler your transmission will last much longer. And that cash you earn from scrapping can be used for more purposeful uses than having your truck laid up in the sick bay at some transmission shop.

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  5. #4
    Proton started this thread.

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    My newly rebuilt 46RE requires ATF-4 fluid a synthetic.

    Because of superior engineering, the synthetic fluid is better at lubricating your transmission and its ability to sustain its viscosity in a broad temperature range. ... You can be assured that in using these synthetic fluids your vehicle will perform better, even in extreme temperature conditions.

  6. #5
    Proton started this thread.

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    This is the 96 Dakota that the rebuilt 46RE transmission is going into, my $50.00 truck

    The main part of the transmission has all new frictions, steels and seals already assembled waiting for the overdrive package.

    The Dakota shipped from factory with a 44RE behind the V6, the OEM OD had 6 frictions installed in the direct, the new 46RE behind the V8 from the 97 Dodge Ram donor has 8 with 4 frictions installed on the overdrive package.

    You need a hydraulic press to compress the killer spring, remove two snap rings then release the pressure on the press to bring the clutch stack free from the drum.

    After installing the new clutches and steels reassembly in reverse order, this time you need a dummy shaft to align a set of spines located below the clutch package, if the splines are not aligned the overdrive will not fit back onto the rear of the transmission case.

    Fifth image down the lugs on the drum closest to the bed on the press, those lugs are used for the parking brake.














    Last edited by Proton; 06-16-2018 at 10:33 PM.

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  8. #6
    Proton started this thread.

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    These are the old overdrive clutches and steels - toasted.

    My shift kit came with instructions on how to supply more cooling oil onto that clutch package to keep it cooler. That shaft is case hardened and really hard to drill use a drill press with good bits. If you use a hand held drill your likely to break a bit inside the hole. Last image is the holes that I enlarged to increase oil flow.

    If your swapping a transmission from one truck to another that had the same engine but maybe a different axle ratio or tire size use the chart below to determine the speedometer gear you'll need or simply swap the gear from your bad transmission. Wrong tooth count on the speedo gear will send goofy messages to the ECU and TCU ( transmission controller ).

    Below the toasted frictions a another jig that I made to compress yet another spring pack so that the frictions, steels and seals could be replaced.








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  10. #7
    Proton started this thread.

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    How it works, the 8 frictions in the overdrive are direct clutches, these are engaged via the heavy coil spring through out the lower 1,2,3, shifts until the aluminium piston hanging off the tail shaft engages the overdrive clutch package shown in images 5 and 6.

    The long rod with the knob on the end is the parking brake prowl that engages the lugs mentioned in an earlier post.

    When the overdrive piston engages the OD clutch pack as the piston descends the direct ( 8) frictions are disengaged, your now in overdrive.

    Think about that for a moment those 4 frictions pulling a 5,000 pound truck full of scrap pulling a fully loaded trailer, give em a break disengage your overdrive and let the direct clutches take the load.

    I would say that 90% of transmission failures are related to the overdrive frictions, the last image shows what happens when you tow heavy loads for extended periods of time in overdrive.

    Now I/m taking a few measurements to determine the shim thickness required for the OD application piston, make sure the tail shaft is fully suspended as shown in the top image, I've zeroed my calliper on the straight edge then taken four measurements from the top of the OD drum.

    Add these measurements then divide by four, this gives you the required shim thickness.

    Image five shows the installed overdrive frictions, last image completed package with pressure plate installed.

    Next transmission rebuild is our 96 GMC.















    ...
    Last edited by Proton; 06-17-2018 at 12:21 PM.

  11. #8
    Proton started this thread.

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    The complete 2001 Dodge Ram shop manual zipped, a whopping 2,889 pages packed full of information. Covers all the automatic transmissions rebuild and diagnostics.

    http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=...srvcmanual.zip

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  13. #9
    Proton started this thread.

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    Excellent document describing how to check the intermediate shaft and the overdrive application piston for the correct selective end play shim.

    The document is complete with charts for the shims needed to correct end play.

    Ya don't need a miller bar.

    Dodge RE end play setup https://www.scribd.com/document/2572...end-play-setup


  14. #10
    Proton started this thread.

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    Dakota Y pipe cross over makes transmission installation impossible, my transmission jack collides with the pipe long before the transmission meets up with the engine.

    Here's what I've come up with, two long bolts, cut the heads off making long dowels of them. Install the dowels into transmission bell housing then slip the dowels into the engine braces, manually lift transmission into place while sliding it over the header pipe.



  15. #11
    Proton started this thread.

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    Forget the long dowels, they don't work because the engine brace is only held on with one bolt at the top end and it pivots.

    Using a 3x4 wedged in-between the muffler and differential moved everything forward about two inches, those nice rubber hangers have a bit of stretch to them. I'm now able to get the transmission close enough to bolt her up to the engine.


  16. #12
    Proton started this thread.

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    Yesterday had a human visitor in my shop when I noticed he was standing directly below the swallow nest told him that he should not stand there then when he asked why I then pointed up to the nest above him.


    The droppings are easy to sweep up then mixed with water for a nitrogen rich fertiliser for the tomato patch.




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  18. #13
    Proton started this thread.

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    I'm a believeras you guys know from another post my Ford Ranger was stolen, I git the truck back along with the diesel engine parts in the box but the GPS and hand truck were gone. I needed that hand truck yesterday and really missed not having it.

    This afternoon found another at one pf the landfill sites we visit, along with a stainless steel condenser that I can use for my essential oil distillery then at the last landfill site a Black and Decker hedge trimmer.

    The hedge trimmer will come in handy for trimming foliage for the oil distillery.

    When all the pieces fall into place you have no choice other than to follow through with your plan.

    Last night finally mated the transmission to the engine, Oh did I mention that last night I was going to ask Pat to order the speedometer gear for my 46RE, glad that I did not because one of the cottage owners brought a load of garbage to the landfill.

    His truck a 95 Dakota was running so rough that he thought it would not make it back to town, he left the truck as scrao and had hos wife come and picl him you. Richard the caretaker phoned the RM office asking if I could purchase the truck but that's a no go. I got a heads up from Richard to come back Saturday to grab the parts I need from the truck leaving the rest for the jaws of life guys to play with.

    The tail lights are in much better condition than the sun bleached ones that I bought from the wrecker.

    I suspect the cottager left the truck with an almost empty fuel tank and water had condensed inside the tank, our winter are brutally cold with very hot summer weather. I thought some fresh gasoline would have corrected the problem. oh well you can't win them all and I'm satisfied with the parts that I will have tomorrow from this abandoned Dakota.

  19. #14
    Proton started this thread.

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    After 5 years of daily wear I decided it was time to retire my old Romeo's ,my new one arrived in the mail this afternoon.

    Price on these has doubled since I bought my last pair.







  20. #15
    Proton started this thread.

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    Ok some pictures of my most recent dump finds.

    My neighbour has a dead Evenrude outboard I'm hoping parts from the dump find will revive to dead engine bring it back to life, need to find some wheels for the cart.

    The Black and Decker trimmer works.

    Part of Saturdays kit will be that new hydraulic bumper jack, no jack stands necessary as the jack locks securely into place at three levels.













  21. #16
    Proton started this thread.

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    Here's the goods on the landfill Dakota.


  22. #17
    Proton started this thread.

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    How to end a near perfect day.

    When the donor transmission was removed the dowel that usually stays with the engine came out with the transmission, trying to mate a trans to an engine that has a dowel also installed is like trying to place a square peg into a round hole.

    Aright I see the problem so I use a long punch to push to dowel through while the transmission is up in the air close to the engine, this works but when I'm looking on the floor for the dowel I can not find it. The dowel fell in behind the torque converter. Had to slide the torque out a bit then use a magnet to fish out the dowel.


  23. #18
    Proton started this thread.

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    Got plenty of free parts from the dump Dakota. tailights, headlamps, distributor, alternator, throttle body and all the sensors most important the missing pieces of transmission linkage and the proper speedometer gear.

    I also get the catalytic converters from these junkers just for the time it take to remove them.

    The on-line vin decoder indicates truck was manufactured in the US but the door tag says Canada.

    From the e-waste a pair of Yashica SLR cameras in real nice condition.




  24. #19
    Proton started this thread.

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    The Yashica cousins, one has a 50mm lens the other a 45mm.


  25. #20
    Proton started this thread.

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    The Princess Auto ( Harbour Freight ) transmission jack is just more Chinese junk,

    I'm going to pull the engine then install the transmission, the lifting hook replaces the throttle valve body.

    Got to play with a new toy the farm purchased a brand new Lincoln inverter welder, I used 7018 stick to weld the hook and all I can say is that this welder is awesome.





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