bolt stuck in battery

**Mechanic688** · 12-09-2011, 12:10 AM

Some batteries have dates where the month/year the battery was purchased is popped out/removed. Might be under miles of grime but it's probably there is you want to know the age of it.

Walmart uses their barcode on their batteries, the barcode tells them sale date and how much warranty is left.

**forwardlookguy** · 12-09-2011, 09:40 AM

I know you said your battery is a side-mount only but just wanted to throw this out there for someone in this situation with a side/top mount battery. If you are going to convert your cables from side to top-mount style, make sure they will reach the top before you go cutting the terminals off your cables. All the cables I've ever seen are just long enough to reach and may not extend the few extra inches to the top.

**Midnight** · 12-09-2011, 09:52 AM

I also once got one out by using a small chisel and hammer. I was able to keep tapping it counter clockwise until I backed it out enough to get a hold on it.

**ozzy214** · 12-09-2011, 11:24 AM

You could always do the hillbilly repair. I have done for this cheap ass customers back in the day. I was ase mech for 10-15 years. Take a center punch. Try to punch right in the middle of the broken bolt. Now drill and use easy out. If that fails, which it probably will. Then get a big self tapper. Use the baby impact 3/8 gun and ream her home. Will grab whats left of the steel and lead and cinch down tight. Just dont use a long one...like 3/4 inch...any longer user washers to stack it up to perfection. Done and it has the tail light guarentee, but I have done it for a few people with no ill effects.

**Gnraxlrose88** · 12-09-2011, 11:51 AM

If you have a MIG welder, and feel confident enough, create a little weld pool in the center of the broken bolt, then "build up" the weld pool, until you have a nice tall weld. Grab with a vice grip and try turning. Regardless of how you get the bolt out, I'd still run a tap through it to clean up the threads so you don't crossthread the new one.

**Gnraxlrose88** · 12-09-2011, 11:52 AM

Originally Posted by ozzy214

You could always do the hillbilly repair. I have done for this cheap ass customers back in the day. I was ase mech for 10-15 years. Take a center punch. Try to punch right in the middle of the broken bolt. Now drill and use easy out. If that fails, which it probably will. Then get a big self tapper. Use the baby impact 3/8 gun and ream her home. Will grab whats left of the steel and lead and cinch down tight. Just dont use a long one...like 3/4 inch...any longer user washers to stack it up to perfection. Done and it has the tail light guarentee, but I have done it for a few people with no ill effects.

Isn't the baby impact the 1/4 inch? Hell the new Snap-On 3/8s have just as much power as a 1/2...

**IdahoScrapper** · 12-09-2011, 03:24 PM

Yeah that's what we need. George welding on a battery that has potentially explosive fumes.

**ozzy214** · 12-09-2011, 03:59 PM

Originally Posted by Gnraxlrose88

Isn't the baby impact the 1/4 inch? Hell the new Snap-On 3/8s have just as much power as a 1/2...

My baby impact is a 3/8 gun. Have had it for like 10 years. Basically a ir knock off. Never was good for lugs, but did everything else just fine. :> Now do I agree. the new ones do have a crap load of power to them .

**ozzy214** · 12-09-2011, 04:02 PM

Originally Posted by Gnraxlrose88

If you have a MIG welder, and feel confident enough, create a little weld pool in the center of the broken bolt, then "build up" the weld pool, until you have a nice tall weld. Grab with a vice grip and try turning. Regardless of how you get the bolt out, I'd still run a tap through it to clean up the threads so you don't crossthread the new one.

This method will work, but need balls of steel. Batteries do release gases that are highly flammable. But if ya like me, have big old balls of steel and clinically insane, then yes this will work to...lol. I just wasnt gonna suggest it...lol!