Dodge 4x4

This is my first year with a dodge 4x4 1998
you know in 4X4 it is a unstoppable truck But in 2 x in snow it can be lame .

OK well must of been around .2 degrees last night and no matter what that old girl would not go into 4X4 not even after 2 hrs of driving
Once or twice it hooked up but like for 20 seconds 4 L 4 h in park in neutral going backwards - tried it all .
Unless it's just busted .What I remember is in summer goes into 4X4 fast as the cold weather shows slower and now I think at close to zero temps it's not gonna happen , even now it's 15 degrees as of now .
Oddly last night I started off in 4X4 from the day before as was tons of snow . drove a wile in the 4X4 mode and when the streets started to show more and more cement I took it out then hence the loop back to the beginning of my question (should of just kept it in 4x4 last night)

Reminds me of my first 4wd pickup - '96 Dodge. Just as you said, it was unstoppable. I had a guy flagged me down one day to plow a 16" snowfall. He rode with me to show me where to go. Most of it was uphill. He told me he couldn't believe what that truck could do. But I had the same problem as you - it would take spells that it just wouldn't go into either 4WD LO or HI. Several trips to the mechanic but he couldn't figure it out either. Finally just got rid of it. Never did figure it out.

It ingages the four wheel drive by using a vacume activated cylinder on the axle. If it gets moisture in it or the line, it will freeze and block the vacume.

Exactly right, except for one thing, the orientation of the actuator allows water to collect inside it...at least it does on mine which is why I just got this...

4x4 Posi-Lok Posi-Lok Cable Operated Shift Actuator - 94-02 Dodge Ram 400

Check your lines too the 4x4 actuator only needs vacuum to move the fork one way or the other not to keep it in 4x4 so you probably have a broken hose/line somewhere...pull the plug off the actuator on the axle and see if it has vacuum, then put it in 4x4 and see if the other line has good vacuum.

Good answers Damotademon7 and armygreywolf. When my 4x4 quit, it was a cracked vacuum line that would work intermittently. The line was a U shaped loop of hard plastic just behind the air cleaner. I like the water freezing ideas also. Check your lines and you should find it. I hadn't heard of the cable actuator, but that sounds like a great patch for these trucks.

Front Axle 4 Wheel Drive Actuator Replacement 4x4 Dodge Ram
Front Axle 4 Wheel Drive Actuator Replacement 4x4 Dodge Ram - YouTube
seems to be the consensus
$100
I'm gonna check the lines and see what they look like
Also my 4x4 dash lite naturally wont go on



http://tal4x4.com/4x4-posi-lok-axle-...t-actuator/400
seems to be a great choice as would be more dependable

was gonna say its the actuator, my truck needs one too......

All I can say and with all respect, shoulda bought a chevy! Lol messing with ya.

I had a chevy, the 4x4 was garbage compared to the dodge...even the newer IFS dodges have superior tie rod ends and ball joints...and better geometry. I will say the chevy had a better ride by a long shot but then what do I care, it's no cadillac.

Confirmed

Vacuum hose nipple off the actuator is rusted off completely

I have nothing to loose I will try to jimmy rig fix with a plastic vac hose nipple
I see a possibility of a temp fix .

A place near me called Gary's you pull it.
I can pick up the whole contraption for $20 to $30 I figure
since its at a easy location to fix, worth a try how ever I do it.

And hey, one more money saver for harsh winters in a Dodge, plus it'll increase your foolin around mpg.

Transmission Cooler Thermal Bypass Valve by Long Free Domestic Shipping | eBay it keeps the trans temp up when it's really cold.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by armygreywolf

And hey, one more money saver for harsh winters in a Dodge, plus it'll increase your foolin around mpg.

Transmission Cooler Thermal Bypass Valve by Long Free Domestic Shipping | eBay it keeps the trans temp up when it's really cold.

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I notice in the winter the MPG is way lower then summer So much so I was wondering if full synthetic oil for differentials , transmission would help, I have it in motor now and on a Zero degree days it starts very easy

But looks interesting to warm up the trans fluid.
I thought there is already a trans pipe in the radiator so summer is cooler and winter warmed to radiator temp.
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So here is the fix I'm gonna try, the actuator I figure is still a working component .
I need a air tight nipple to reattach . I have a plastic nipple one side fits the rubber hose , & other side is reduced in size . I may have to ream out the metal hole a bit and nip off some of the plastic of hose connector . Once I fit plastic into hole I'll try some epoxy product at area to mend.
Once dry, I'll put rubber hose boot back ,
then test it . If it works I'll take some silicon sealant and neatly glop some over the whole area .
As long as vacuum it sealed should work.
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I met a service station man today who gave me the part for free.
It's used

he had it from a customer who ask him to fix truck but was not the issue any way cust said keep the old part
now I have it , tested ok .

Excellent, sounds like you'll be back in business.

Couple things I do to keep my mpg up... In winter the colder it is the more fuel the truck uses to get warm, its the start-up air fuel ratio thats set by temperature...like a choke in the old days. Second is pretty obvious if you think about it...winter gas formulation, you wont get better mileage on winter fuel no what you do. Also, runing synthetics is always a good thing, that stuff about leaking seals is all bull**** unless your truck was made in the 70s almost all oil has had variations of the additive package present in synthetic oil. Another thing, it gets **** cold where I live in WI so I actually just leave my truck plugged in with a timer that turns it on at midnight so it'll warm up to closed loop mode in the first two or three minutes....this alone can save 5 bucks worth of gas well worth the 50 cents in electricity. I have both an oil pan heater and a freeze plug block heater spliced to the same cord. Other things to consider...a calibration update to your truck's computer...either aftermarket or by the manufacturer. This helps in almost all cases, I do tunes myself professionally so I make adjustments to take a cold engine off cat warm up mode as fast as possible...thats alot of gas. Run high air pressure in the winter, get the hanger ons knocked off the body because that stuff can weigh hundreds of pounds when its built up.


In the winter time, a big thing here, people with gas engines especially, if you plan to shut off and start up your vehicle along your route...don't. Here's why, every time you start your engine after it's been off for more than two or three minutes it puts the truck/car back in cat warm up mode until the O2 sensors are reading again...this can take two minutes it itself and cost you a few quarters worth of gas in that short amount of time.

Figured I could help with this since cars and trucks are my daily bag so to speak.

I had this problem with mine last winter, I knocked the crap outa that cylinder with a rubber mallet, has worked ever since