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I've got a question about a 1998 Chevy Blazer. It has a bad auto transmission. Otherwise its in decent shape.
Do the transmissions in those machines have a weak point in them? The local wrecking yard doesn't have any and couldn't find one nearly all the way across Canada into Quebec. They aren't cheap, either...I was quoted a rebuilt from NAPA at about 1200.
Would it make more sense to swap in a manual transmission? Maybe too many pieces to change over (adding the clutch pedal and all?
Jon.
Not sure if there are any common failures. Have a 1997 with 140K and 2000 with 289K. Both original transmissions, fluid & filter services about every 75K miles. Have done a fair amount of towing with the 2000, has tow package and never, ever pull anything while in OD. Have lots of tranny shops for customers and this is their comments on killers for the blazer automatics. Unless its a 2 door blazer I don't think you will find a swap out auto to manual transmission set up. If I'm wrong I'm sure some one will pipe in.
All transmission can have problems but I don't know any commen problems with GM transmission. They seem to be tuff. Changing to a manual trans would be a real pain. You would needs trans,presser plate,complete clutch peddle system,trans crossmember, manual trans wire harness with ECM that will match year and engine type,drive shaft. This is just stuff off the top of my head. You may not need some of the item but may need others I didn't list.
The week link is the 3-4 clutch pack and the sun gears. They usually don't get serviced and the fluid fries the trans clutches out. If it's burnt, it needs a rebuild. 1200 was cheap. Around here there 1800 plus the R+R. Comes to like 2100-2200. It's not rocket science to build one like the trans shops would lead you to believe. You do need a fair amount of know how, where to inspect key wear parts and a clutch pack press. Any trans shop can do the clutch drum packs for you. Most won't. The valve body is key with all electric operated valves it must be smooth, clean and right. They go for a grand + these days. If your TQ converter is good it can be drilled, cleaned/flushed, tapped/plugged and reused. Most shops replace damaged hard-parts, flush the converter, toss a seal/gasket kit in it with new clutches and steels. Not much else to it but a pump and some planetary sets.
" Unless its a 2 door blazer I don't think you will find a swap out auto to manual transmission set up."
They made 2x4 and 4x4 ones, just not many. Two door stick 4x4, never seen one.
They are out there. Rare and hard to find. Even harder to sell.
KAM,
I'm thinking about your suggestion of my rebuilding the transmission. I've never done a car transmission but have stripped and rebuilt a D4 Cat powershift transmission and torque.
Not sure about your description of cleaning and flushing the torque. Are you meaning drilling an access hole to put flushing fluid into the torque or are you talking about taking the torque fully apart?
Thanks!
Jon.
One thing if you do rebuild it make sure your bench is clean and I was told not to get any lint in the valve body or other parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by sawmilleng
I took the advice and cleaned everything in clean solvent and then dried with air pressure.
The rebuild kit I bought had all the gaskets, seals, bearings it also included the clutch disks and steel plates. I had to make a few tools to compress the clutch pack spring very simple to make.
I wouldn't want to spend too much money on that thing. I could find a nice one for 1500-2000 without mechanical problems. I personally think your best bet is to just throw in a used transmission. If you don't want to go to the lower 48 to pick one up there appears to be several yards in Canada you can get one from.
98 99 00 S10 Blazer Automatic Transmission 4x4 | eBay
98 99 00 S10 Blazer Automatic Transmission 4x4 895387 | eBay
98 99 00 S10 Blazer Automatic Transmission 4x4 881385 | eBay
98 99 00 S10 Blazer Automatic Transmission 4x4 | eBay
But there are many people in the U.S. that will ship to Canada.
Does the vehicle move? If so does it upshift, attempt to shift? what's the fluid smell like, is fluid level low? Check engine light on? Not doubting the bad transmission diagnosis but there are other things to consider before condemning the transmission itself. If it does move but no upshift could be a solenoid problem, valve body problem or even something not even attached to or related to the trans. If vehicle does not move and you decide to repair yourself I would not risk drilling and flushing the converter replace it with a remanufactured unit. It could be bad itself and you just transferred the problem. If you opt to fix yourself, have never done a car trans and do not have some special tools. It was mentioned earlier about making tools, certainly can be done as I have made many when I was building transmissions. But there are some that you just can't make and some are not inexpensive. Probably not the transmission you would want to have a first experience with. Just my .03 (.01 for inflation). This forum teaches we all start somewhere and learn from what we do od didn't do.
find out what it would take to import one from the usa. should be able to find one down here
The transmission problems are straightforward--it started to not want to move. You had to rev it up a lot to get it moving. Once under way, it seems to shift ok. It didn't take long before it wouldn't move at all. That seems to point at the torque. But doesn't the torque oil circulate through the transmission as well? Or am I confusing the operation of a heavy equipment torque with an automotive torque? Also, even if it is the torque, you gotta drop the transmission on the ground to get at it...why not have a look at the tranny at the same time?
The oil smelled burnt before it started its problems; we dropped the pan, and changed the oil and filter pickup. I doubt it was changed since new, and has 175K km on it now. It started the problems after this and we are wondering if the pickup dropped off the intake--it is just a friction fit. Because the wife had a mail route and my pickup was also on blocks we were forced to continue just using it. We tried making sure it was full of oil so if the pickup was leaking it would still get oil. No change.
By the way, it's a 4 door 4x4. We bought it about 3 years ago, paid way too much for it, so I want to fix it up so we can use it to get some of our money out of it. My wife quite likes it...
I don't have any problem pulling it and stripping it. I'm a pretty methodical guy and will get the appropriate manuals beforehand. I understand GM has a pretty decent rebuild manual for the transmission...?
Thanks for all your responses--they help!
Jon.
Torque converter circulates oil similar to that on heavy equipment. If your problem agrivated after changing the filter make sure the filter you use is for the correct depth pan, there are two options. If fluid is burnt bad, will likely have internal issues that your disassembly will discover. ATSG (automatic transmission service guides) Are excellent manuals also. You can get them on-line at various places. I used these in the days I built transmissions, I got some of mine at my local NAPA store. Good Luck, hope all goes well for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by sawmilleng
that price isn't bad for a rebuild if they are removing and reinstalling the transmission as well, to couple with the rebuild.
too much work to swap to manual unless you want to keep the truck for a long time.
Wow... a couple minutes search on Google found me two 4L60E transmission rebuild manuals--an aftermarket and a GM version. Both over 100 pages. Free downloads, probably illegal as h*ll.
Jon.
oh, if they are 4l60E's, you should look into putting one from a 1500 silverado or sierra into it. much more abundant to find a used one ;)
I helped rebuild one, and did my own th350. They aren't bad if you have the right tools.
I would think that vintage would be a 4L60E as that is what is in my '94 Roadmaster as well as in the '03 GMC Sierra 1500.Quote:
Originally Posted by lousypirate
One would hope that the spline counts would be the same on the output shafts on the 4.3's tranny as well as the V8's.
Wouldn't surprise me if the 1500's or the cars spline count was the same, ...might even be able to use a 2wd tranny and swap the rear casing of the tranny if the output shaft is the same length.
If not could still be used by reassembling with the original output shaft, ...but that again entails a fair amount of work as well.
D***, It'd be nice to have a Tranmission tech as a friend to verify what I am sorta semi guessing on here. :)
I think the spline count might be ok with 1/2 ton tranny but would be higher on 3/4 ton or more due to larger Dia. shafts. is what I'm getting at.
I'm not a mechanic by trade so if anyone that might have experience or know better, ...please correct me if I am wrong.
Jvcr1,
Maybe some of the guys who have already posted on this will chime in again. You pose a good question, although I would think that the transmission would have been designed for a certain maximum hp and they wouldn't fiddle with shaft sizes for each model that the tranny went into.
I am surprised that this transmission is supposed to have gone into everything up to a 3/4 ton pickup. It seems that putting it into a wimpy little Blazer would be overkill.
I also am surprised at the depth of detailed knowledge on this forum!!!! Ask pretty well any question on something mechanical and someone will have an answer. On my transmission question, I have got far more good answers on this forum than some of the details I've seen on automotive forums that I found when searching for service documentation.
Thanks,
Jon.
ATSG (automatic transmission service guides
He's right about that. It will have all the service updates listed. You could beef up the pump but, really no need. Get a new converter not a rebuilt one. Were talking 20-30 bucks difference here. Add an extra clutch and steel to the 4th gear pack for OD and you'll get another 150K out of it. Don't play with shift kits and get a good felt filter for it. No goo on the pan gasket! Assemble it with ATF gel.