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Well, my 2005 diesel pickup truck sprung a coolant leak on Friday.
Having no spare cash around due to the low price of shred, looks like I have to sell my bobcat trailer to pay for the repair (around 800 bucks if it is the water pump).
I am hoping it is not the water pump-it could be the thermostat gasket so here's hoping.
Are you able to fix yourself a waterpump should run around 100$ and a hour or 2 of your time.... If your not very mechanical youtube im sure will have a video of step by step replacement just throwing it out there to mybe help you save some $$
Eaglelakesalvage is right on target. Instead of you tube, I just Google the knowledge needed. I am not real patient with video's and prefer pictures and hands on advice. The only good reason to sell equipment in my mind is to upgrade. Good luck.
How bad is the leak ?
If it's not too bad, a bottle of cooling system sealer might do the trick.
not to sound rude, as i have done this on plenty of old beater work trucks to get by until i could do the proper repair; but DO NOT ad any kind of "stop leak" type coolant additive to a newer turbo diesel, especially a power stroke unless you want a guaranteed turbo or head gasket failure in your future.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrappah
powerstrokehelp.com, powerstrokenation.com, oilburners.net, and a few other out there can get your all the info you need to fix it yourself properly.
I've never done well with the stop leak, either. I wouldn't depend on it for a diesel system. Depending on skillset, time, and need, repairing yourself may be the way to go. I learned how to replace a radiator on my Buick because I had to. Once you become acquainted (Watch as many videos and read as many forum threads as you can find), it's not too bad- just a giant step-by-step.
Best of luck!
It's kool.Quote:
Originally Posted by ilovejunk
I've always used Bar's Stop Leak. As far as i know, it's safe to use in a diesel.
Bar's Leaks US site Head Gasket Fix - Bar's Leaks US site
Afterthought:
The biggest problem is the radiator cap. They should either be pressure tested -or-replaced on a yearly basis.
I forgot to mention ebay is a great outlet for buying parts I needed wheel berrings for a 200 blazer Orillys wanted 120 each picked a pair up for 67$ with free shipping. have to wait a few days but the savings are worth it. I fix alot of "junk" cars I buy most of the time its suspension, brakes, or easy stuff. Couple hundred dollars and a few hours turns a 200$ clunker into a 1000$ beater. Example the blazer im working on 175 purchase price, 67 wheel bearings, 12 stabilizer bar bushings, 20 rear brake pads For a total investment of 274 and about 4 hours. Gives my younger sister a first vehicle that she will work off helping me strip wire and clean up brass.
A 2005 will be either the Cummins 5.9, Ford 6.0, or Duramax 6.6 NatureRecycleFlorida has posted a huge wealth of information there- one of those videos should tell you how to do it!
I would never cut a arm off to fix the other. That is just ludicrous...LOL
Its probably a 6.0. Your going to need to sell more than your trailer.
Duramax is what I have.
Thanks for the advice all-I appreciate it.
I got a loan to fix the truck.
The shop started on it yesterday at 3 so it should be done this afternnoon.
Diesel are money pits. When they do run they run great. But when they brake, FORGET it. Especially the late 90's fords. $1500 bucks to have an oil pain replaced. Just a joke