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I got about 8-900 lbs of boat motor parts yesterday from a regular of a couple years. There are several 2-cylinder blocks. Looks like the only iron is a little pin that is easily cut off and the piston sleeves. Any tips on getting those sleeves out or just cut them with a sawzall? In the past, I've taken them as Irony-aluminum, but the way things are going, I'm maximizing what I get - within reason.
Mick, Those sleeves are usually pressed in I think. Don't know of a good way to heat the whole block to drive the sleeve out, just wouldn't be feasible.
Thanks. I know they're tighter than sh--. What if I cut them from inside on two sides? Irony aluminum is 0.20/lb and extrusion is 0.70/lb. Just seems a waste to lose .50/lb over two sleeves.
With a BFH
Like this one? Weighs 40 pounds.Quote:
Originally Posted by c4f5
http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...ent=510014.jpg
cutting torch with a smallish tip. No need to melt the whole block just a small cut.
I've tried breaking the block with a sledge. No go.
I read somewhere about using a welder to run a few beads inside to shrink the sleeve and pull it. Haven't tried it yet.
Have wondered how hard it would be to cut through it with a band saw, then pop the sleeve loose.
Cutting torch seems easiest as suggested by easyrecycle.
If heating the entire block would get it out, then I would think putting it in an old oven would work? Unless it needs to be hotter than that.
Can you take those blocks in as part of a larger load of cleaned aluminum, so that even with the sleeves still in, your contamination for the entire load is still under the 5% or 10% or whatever your yard allows before it is considered contaminated? I'm able to do that here when some material is just way too much of a hassle to clean, with specifically sleeves being one of the items I won't remove.
There's just too many for that to work. Got another load today. I didn't even get the first load looked clear through, but counted at least 12 blocks without even going through the tubs. Now, today I got more but didn't even start to count the blocks.
Here's a couple pictures of the first load:
http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...tmotors001.jpg
http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...tmotors003.jpg
And the load from today:
http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...5-22-11001.jpg
http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...5-22-11002.jpg
nice loads, Mick.
Mick,
Found this thread while researching my marine repair source and am wondering if you ever found an effective way of removing these sleeves.
Also a poster above mentions yards allowing 5-10% contamination before declaring "dirty" aluminum. The yard I'm using is only allowing 2% (and that is based on an instant judgment call made at weigh-in). I am wondering if there shouldn't be more of an industry standard that would apply.
No. I'm just holding onto them for now to see if I come up with something.Quote:
Originally Posted by vijunk
Just looked at the photos...some of the lower units look to be in good shape. I would sand blast them an see if any repairs where made to them. If not an they are in good shake even after paint is removed. The take GOOD photos an find the S/N an list them on ebay. People who are repair there motor for there boat an do not want to buy a whole new top or lower unit would be happy to buy your top or lower unit for a rebuild. I have seen some of them sell for as much as 400 to 800 each.
Lower units sell faster...people who are boating an hit the lower unit need to replace it because the top unit is fine..the lower unit was damaged...they are your high bidders as they dont want to buy a whole new unit...
I wished I thought of sooner, I had the same thing.
Put on the safety glasses and use the Hydraulic Log Splitter
Hey mick, just wondering about any progress on boat motors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick
Have an opportunity for steady supply.
Hey Mick, if you have a good relationship with your yard, sometimes they will meet you in the middle so to speak. Ask for .50 and then take the .45 thats offered.
Hey guys just a heads up...Mick is Recycling with the Good Lord now.
In case anyone missed it;Quote:
Originally Posted by KzScrapper
http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/scrap...ick-smith.html
Yeah. I realized that after I posted. There are still ways he can answer. I sure that the good Lord will guide me, per Mick's instructions. May he rest in peace.Quote:
Originally Posted by KzScrapper
it is possible to grind the sleeves out or shave them out by honing / boring. talk to a machine shop and see what they would take to do it. since they arent trying to make them usable it may be much cheaper.
you can make a home made press from heavy steel and a bottle jack that would apply enough pressure to push sleeves out if you can access them. last one i made was strong enough to fold 3/4" iron plate in half using homemade dies.
have you tried using a weed burner? for car size sleeves you can modify a cutting torch set up using fittings to accept a piece of pipe that can function simularly. probably need oxy / acceteline for enough heat. just lp may not produce enough heat on weedburner. make stand to hold it pointing in cylinder but slightly abovr so it doesnt snuff and do something else for 15-20 minutes.