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  1. #21
    jghilino's Avatar
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    regular maintenance first, if your behind on that get that done. Next thing is psi in the tires. I ignore the manufacturers ratings on the car and go 5 pounds less than what it says on the side of the tire. Second is intake system upgrades. Exhaust is next. If you have a pickup truck i would do a cold air intake and a chip at the very least. Diesels will make big gains with a tuner module alone.

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    coasting

    Coasting to stop signs and lights and using as little breaking as possible is one of the best ways.

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  4. #23
    Russell's Avatar
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    I try not to keep excessive scrap weight in the bed too long. If you have the means keep the excess weight out, I've worked a setup out where I can unload every day into my trailer. Trailer gets hauled to the yard when its full. Hope that helps.

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  6. #24
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by jghilino View Post
    regular maintenance first, if your behind on that get that done. Next thing is psi in the tires. I ignore the manufacturers ratings on the car and go 5 pounds less than what it says on the side of the tire.
    Running 75 psi on a 10 ply 16" tire on something like a Ford ranger would be a bit much when it's empty. the amount of air pressure always depends on the weight it carries, so I dont feel like a Cookie cutter answer like 5 psi less than the tire is rated for to be an adequate answer. Not trying to start anything here but I've done 95% of my own tire repairs and been a tire tech for 4 years so I know a few things about tires.
    Last edited by taterjuice; 12-12-2012 at 12:31 AM.
    Alvord iron and salvage
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  7. #25
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    1996 C70 Straight Truck, with a 366 motor, five speed split gears, dump bed, Pfft, be lucky to get 10 miles per gallon.
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    Load em heavy as hell when your driving that brute down the road

  9. #27
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    Try a Throttle body spacer or a Regulator plate. I got a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 and most of the time I have been getting 13mpg. I just got 15 when I babied it. Try a tonneau cover aswell

  10. #28
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    Larger tires gave me an extra 5-7 gallons per tank.. or to be more specific, TALLER tires gives me results. I just have to be careful with my speed until I change out the speedometer gear because I am actually going faster than what the needle reads.

    So technically a taller tire gets me a further distance for every revolution of the wheels which adds up after a few hundred miles. I figure that going from the 215-75-15's to the 235-75's adds another 10-12 mph to my actual speed which translates to the higher distance/mileage per tank.

  11. #29
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    What you did Ted was lowered your RPM a few hundred.
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    I always look for a tractor trailer to draft behind . I use a 04 GMC Sierra 1500 to go back and forth from the house to the shop(84 mile round trip) truck is all stock, gets 20/22mpg if you keep it at 65mph, runs around 1800rpm. If i draft behind a tractor trailer i can drop my rpm to 1550 and still keep it at 65mph.
    'There is two kinds of people in this world, One opens his wallet and pays for it, and the other opens his toolbox and fixes it' Quote from my grandfather, A quote me and my father live by.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ScrapYaHerd View Post
    First buy a gauge that tells you instant and avg mpg then you can see what driving habits are causing you to burn more gas. For me I though accelerating under 2krpm was key, wrong it burns almost as much gas as going to 4k, the key is not using the brakes as much and coasting to stops, etc.
    The advice I underlined just didn't make sense to me the first few times I read that. Then on the way home tonight it clicked. I think that's some pretty darned good advice now that I'm finally able to wrap my mind around it.

  14. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by NobleMetalWorks View Post
    A strong magnet on the fuel line to align the molecules into long strings, positive to negative, so the fuel burns more efficiently.

    Scott
    I've never heard of this, is there somewhere you recommend reading more about it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by skrRecycling View Post
    I always look for a tractor trailer to draft behind . I use a 04 GMC Sierra 1500 to go back and forth from the house to the shop(84 mile round trip) truck is all stock, gets 20/22mpg if you keep it at 65mph, runs around 1800rpm. If i draft behind a tractor trailer i can drop my rpm to 1550 and still keep it at 65mph.
    Describe to me how a fixed thing like rotations per minute changes?
    Should not happen with a lock up torque converter

  16. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by wannabemechanic View Post
    I've never heard of this, is there somewhere you recommend reading more about it?
    Here you go, they help explain all the quackery;
    K&J Magnetics - Fuel Magnets

    Describe to me how a fixed thing like rotations per minute changes?
    Should not happen with a lock up torque converter
    Cause tucking in behind the semi will "pull" your vehicle along. If you get close enough you could theoretically take your hand off the wheel and foot off the throttle. Do not try this at home. When you can lessen your wind drag by 40% safely then something's working. http://www.treehugger.com/cars/draft...s-it-work.html

  17. #35
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    I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 with a 5.9 Magnum HEMI V8 and I get 14.6 MPG. The 2007 Ford F-150 4x2 with a 5.4 Triton V8 that I had prior would get excellent gas mileage for a truck - anywhere from 22 to 25 MPG. I DO NOT suggest tailgating Semi's, however I do like it when I get behind them on the highway at a reasonable distance. You can really see a difference!
    Last edited by SladeMcCuiston; 12-20-2012 at 02:58 AM.

  18. #36
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    I use a mini-van. It's purple. It's like being inside a raisin. Also, like said a few posts above..if i got scrap, its unloaded at the house, till my next trip to the yard. Ewaste goes straight in to my shop. Tires kept up, maintenance, etc.


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  19. #37
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    just install a flux capacitor, they work great.

  20. #38
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    google hydro xi. and hydrogen generator. easy to build and they work. easy to get 25 % increase in mileage. Water for gas is another site.
    "anyone who thinks scrappin is easy money ain't doin it right!"

  21. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by jghilino View Post
    regular maintenance first, if your behind on that get that done. Next thing is psi in the tires. I ignore the manufacturers ratings on the car and go 5 pounds less than what it says on the side of the tire. Second is intake system upgrades. Exhaust is next. If you have a pickup truck i would do a cold air intake and a chip at the very least. Diesels will make big gains with a tuner module alone.
    wouldn't that create more friction with more tire touching the road reducing mpg?

    Quote Originally Posted by Russell View Post
    I try not to keep excessive scrap weight in the bed too long. If you have the means keep the excess weight out, I've worked a setup out where I can unload every day into my trailer. Trailer gets hauled to the yard when its full. Hope that helps.
    i heard every 100lbs reduces mpg by 2%. i don't know if that number is an accurate measurement but clearly hauling anything that isn't necessary is costing you money.

    someone else mentioned using less break and coasting to stop lights. this is the easiest and one of the best ways to reduce fuel consumption imo.

  22. #40
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    Yeah I've seen a 3 mpg increase with keeping my rpms at 2000, not jumping on the gas, and coasting to stops. How does that Magnet work? I'm assuming you attach it to the fuel line??


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