Trust me on this one if the lathe worked better to machine the ends off this is how i would remove the ends, the sawzall works best with a 14 tpi blade.
I use the lathe chuck only because I have not set up a vice in the shop yet, any vise large enough to clamp the copper will do the job.
or you could improvise by cutting a V slot into a large block of wood, affixe the block onto a larger plank, to make the strap use a scrap piece of copper pipe flatten it out, fold it over a 1/4" bolt so it's now hinged on one end. Put a spacer under the 1/4 bolt at each end so that your hinge will move freely then use some large staples to secure the hinge bolt in place, drill a hole on the otherend of the flattened copper pipe.
Have someone weld a washer onto the end of another 1/4" bolt or heat and bend some ready rod into a eyelet on one end - this bolt will be secured to the front side of your bent copper by means of passing through that hole you previously drilled. Again you can use a large staple to secure the washer end on that front bolt.
Pre-form your flattened copper pipe to conform to the curvature of the magnetron copper give take it does not have to be perfect.
Place the magnetron into the V Block then tighten the the nut on the front bolt enough to secure the copper for cutting, the nice thing here is that most of the coppers are of similar size.
A couple of variations of this clamp come to mind and may even be simpler to build, take two peices of planking or 2 by 4, cut a V both top and bottom to mathc when closed, using a door hinge on one end will give you the movement you need then drill a hole clear through both planks the opposite end, on the top plank you maqy want tpo drill a couple of holes to give you an oblong hole which will allow the bolt some travel. Just use a large washer under the nut to save damaging the wood after repetitious use.
Or you could use two planks as above with out he hinged end, drill make the two V blocks as before then drill holes clean through both, what you'll have is a teeter totter until one side is tightened up, again you may need the oblong holes on the top board.
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