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Ammonia Recovery and Disposal?

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    Ammonia Recovery and Disposal?

    What is the proper way to recover and dispose of ammonia?



    Here's the situation, normally (99% of the time) cooling appliances, in this particular situation, refrigerators, contain freon as the refrigerant.

    We have all the certs and equipment to do freon recovery, but here's the problem...

    We got a lead on a job for hundreds of small refrigerators, ALL of them are cooled with ammonia, not freon. In particular the ammonia type is r717

    Now I know there's no 'regulations' as far as ammonia, it's not hazardous to the environment so they say (unless you decide to dilute the ground or a water supply with high concentrations of it of course)... It's definitely hazardous to people though if directly exposed for extended periods of time or if inhaled etc, but the point is there's no way in hell we're going snip all these things, that's not our style. Even if there was just one unit I wouldn't snip it.

    Does anybody know how to properly recover and dispose of the ammonia from all these units? They had mentioned it's a 'foaming' agent of some sort, maybe a certain type of ammonia (didn't know there were different kinds), but apparently it turns from foam to liquid and back somehow...

    I would assume I can't just buy some new cylinders and hook the freon machine to them, the recovery machines aren't made for 'ammonia' or 'foaming agents' that I'm aware of, I'd hate to destroy the machine trying to do it. But again I don't know, maybe you can, I'm hoping someone on here knows the answer to this dillema.


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    Try contacting freonjoe, he is a buyer on here as well as one of the more experienced members when it comes to refrigeration. He may be able to guide you. Send him a pm.
    I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a-hand on. I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” John Wayne-- The Shootist

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    When I get ammonia systems in, I tap them with a quick tap and run the end of the hose into a bucket of water. Then dump the water on the grass or garden. Ammonia is a great fertilizer (ask any farmer) as it is mostly nitrogen. Where did you get all the RV (I'm assuming) refrigerators?

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    I think an incoming ammonia pipeline was what set off the final explosion at the fertilizer plant in Texas last week

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    Bear, I think it was all the ammonium nitrate they had onsite that caused the big blast. Think the Murrow building in OKC except on a much bigger scale.

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    Like Freon Said bubble it through some water and dump it on some plants, Ammonia IS NOT good for plants but there is bacteria that convert it into nitrates which ARE good so if you dump it directly on plants don't overdue it. The best bet would be to cycle the water through another bucket full of pool screen this creates a ton of surface area which will be completely colonized with bacteria and convert the nitrates if left out to the open air within about 3 weeks.

    This is how aquaponic growers are able to grow tilapia and other fish and then cycle that water through a Bio-filter or through a gravel grow bed and grow plants with NOTHING other than fish waste. If an operation isn't in your town or city your not looking hard enough someone is doing it, and more and more people are catching on everyday.

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    Yellowjackets line piercing tool will only work on copper lines but not on steel lines so I made a saddle, nipple welded on, attached ball valve and a fitting for a hose. I open the valve, put a drill through it and tap the line. I withdraw the bit enough to close the gate valve. I lose some ammonia but I am wearing a full face cover and and gas mask. I did 40 or fridges and then had one flare on me... 8 feet straight out; lasted only a second. That got my attention. I did a couple more and then when I tapped a small fridge and the ammonia came out, it exploded. No harm done but it buts this procedure on hold. Comments or input please.

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    Ammonia has an affinity for water based on this principal is how an RV fridge operate. The electric or a small propane flame drives the ammonia out of the water via distillation. The ammonia gas now freed from the water goes in search of more water to once again unite with. During it's journey passes through the evaporator coil located near the top on the refrigerator system picking up heat as it passes through.

    Ammonia has a low boiling point, which means you should at all costs avoid eye or skin contact as it will cause frost burn.

    Ammonia prefers to be a gas but maybe compressed as a liquid, farmers use anhydrous ammonia a liquid stored in a large steel tank on wheels for easy transportation.

    Here's a large list of accidents that have occurred using anhydrous ammonia.

    The ammonia in an RV fridge when not in use that is no heat applied resides in the water a small amount of ammonia may also reside as a gas above the water. Piercing the system will only release the gas residing above the water.

    To properly evacuate the system you'll need to use a vacuum pump that is capable of pressurizing the ammonia pulled off as a gas back into a liquid.

    https://duckduckgo.com/?q=anhydrous+...nonical&ia=web
    Last edited by alloy2; 12-09-2016 at 09:25 PM.

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    Since there's no moving parts to wear out in those Ammonia fridges. Is there a potential to recycle them for use somehow?

    Third world country's?
    I have always wondered if its possible to just build a little fire under the hot end and that would start the cycle off and would give you a cold fridge for a day for the price of a handful of twigs and leaves, or a chunk of dried dung.....
    Back country huts?

    I have used a home version of one and have put a couple of units aside for experiments one day.
    And once I found a pierced unit amongst scrap metal whitewear, wondered what the dayglo green liquid was and once I got close enough to get a wiff of the gas I KNEW!
    Its like inhaling a liquid, well actually you stop inhaling as soon as the brain realises what's hit the lungs....

    Alloy2, check out this link. Have a close look and see what it caused damage too and try and figure out exactly what caused it to happen in the first place. I think only somebody with a bit of insight could work it out from the pictures.

    Morris missile: Anhydrous ammonia nurse tank explosion - Boilers - Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry

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    Quote Originally Posted by eesakiwi View Post
    Since there's no moving parts to wear out in those Ammonia fridges. Is there a potential to recycle them for use somehow?

    Third world country's?
    I have always wondered if its possible to just build a little fire under the hot end and that would start the cycle off and would give you a cold fridge for a day for the price of a handful of twigs and leaves, or a chunk of dried dung.....
    Back country huts?

    I have used a home version of one and have put a couple of units aside for experiments one day.
    And once I found a pierced unit amongst scrap metal whitewear, wondered what the dayglo green liquid was and once I got close enough to get a wiff of the gas I KNEW!
    Its like inhaling a liquid, well actually you stop inhaling as soon as the brain realises what's hit the lungs....

    Alloy2, check out this link. Have a close look and see what it caused damage too and try and figure out exactly what caused it to happen in the first place. I think only somebody with a bit of insight could work it out from the pictures.

    Morris missile: Anhydrous ammonia nurse tank explosion - Boilers - Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry
    Anhydrous means water removed,

    I'm thinking during the last farming season this particular tank was used someone had left some valves open and water entered the vessel over the winter months. Once the tank was refilled a reaction began building up pressure inside well beyond the tanks ability to contain that pressure which caused the tank to explode.

    Ammonia is an oxidizer that reacts with a number of metals, this is why you'll never see copper or aluminum used in the manufacture of an RV refrigeration circuit that comes into direct contact with ammonia.

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    Quote Originally Posted by saleric View Post
    Yellowjackets line piercing tool will only work on copper lines but not on steel lines so I made a saddle, nipple welded on, attached ball valve and a fitting for a hose. I open the valve, put a drill through it and tap the line. I withdraw the bit enough to close the gate valve. I lose some ammonia but I am wearing a full face cover and and gas mask. I did 40 or fridges and then had one flare on me... 8 feet straight out; lasted only a second. That got my attention. I did a couple more and then when I tapped a small fridge and the ammonia came out, it exploded. No harm done but it buts this procedure on hold. Comments or input please.
    Your ball valve made from brass, when you drilled through probably made some brass filings which reacted with the ammonia.

    Steel fittings only used with ammonia.

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    Nice article here on absorption refrigeration, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absorption_refrigerator




    1. Hydrogen enters the pipe with liquid ammonia

    2. Ammonia and hydrogen enter the inner compartment of the refrigerator. An increase in volume causes a decrease in the partial pressure of the liquid ammonia. The ammonia evaporates, taking heat from the liquid ammonia (ΔHVap) and thus lowering its temperature. Heat flows from the hotter interior of the refrigerator to the colder liquid, promoting further evaporation.

    3. Ammonia and hydrogen return from the inner compartment, ammonia returns to absorber and dissolves in water. Hydrogen is free to rise upwards.

    4. Ammonia gas condensation (passive cooling).

    5. Hot ammonia (gas).

    6. Heat insulation and distillation of ammonia gas from water.

    7. Heat source (electric).

    8. Absorber vessel (water and ammonia solution).

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    Quote Originally Posted by alloy2 View Post
    Anhydrous means water removed,

    I'm thinking during the last farming season this particular tank was used someone had left some valves open and water entered the vessel over the winter months. Once the tank was refilled a reaction began building up pressure inside well beyond the tanks ability to contain that pressure which caused the tank to explode.

    Ammonia is an oxidizer that reacts with a number of metals, this is why you'll never see copper or aluminum used in the manufacture of an RV refrigeration circuit that comes into direct contact with ammonia.
    I noticed the gouge inside the tank, its near where the cracked edge of the loose bit of tank end is.
    I figured that when the tank was made, the welder accidently dropped the handpiece with a rod, possibly a 'GO' gouging rod or a cellulose electrode in it, or it fell off something while the welder was away from the job.
    It arced and kept arcing as it moved, gouging a gouge out of the tank end.
    This has caused a inside stress close to where the outside weld for the lifting lugs are, closish to the end cap welds.

    I had not figured into the equation that there could be water involved as well.
    At this point after refilling and maybe day/night temp differences, it decided to blow....

    But did you see that tractor? The tanks hit it and broke it in half! I'm glad there was nobody near it when it happened though.

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    Whatever you do, DO NOT put it in a sealed container. Best method is to bubble it thru water. if you try to contain/trap it it will become a bomb.
    My fortune cookie said:
    You discover treasures where others see nothing unusual.

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    I talked with a tech who had successfully drained these units.
    He said that he turns the unit upside down and lets the fluids settle and separate from the gases.

    He said that he would then open the valve through which they initially charged the unit.
    He cracks it just enough to allow the hydrogen to slowly leak out. The pressure in these units in normally about 350 psi.

    If he can’t get the valve open, he uses a hacksaw to cut a small hole into one of the lines, again to slowly bleed off the hydrogen and ammonia.

    I came up with a third method that Steve thought would work as well... I camp a saddle onto one of the pipes. The saddle has a nipple welded to it. To this I tighten a 3/8” tee. I put a compression fitting with and “O” ring on next. Through this I pass a drill bit which is fasten to a pneumatic drill. A line goes on the other end of the “T” and into a pail of water. As soon as the drill breaks through the steel line, gases escapes and goes out the “T” with the line on it and into the water.
    Using a pneumatic drill rather than a portable drill as I was doing, removes the source of spark.

    [IMG]file:///C:/Users/Eric/AppData/Local/Temp/wlmail-433777574/supfiles209ED26/20161217_165517[2].jpg[/IMG]

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    Ammonia resides inside an absorption fridge as both a liquid and a vapor, once the ammonia gas and hydrogen has been evacuated the water remaining in the unit is saturated with ammonia as a liquid.

    As I said earlier ammonia has an affinity for water, but due to its low boiling point would rather be a gas, it's during this transition that using improper equipment could result in serious frost burn.

    Not sure what your fixation is with these types of fridges, Ammonia is a dangerous chemical combined with certain elements you could inadvertently create an explosive. Those of us that refine precious metals are well aware of the potential to accidentally making an explosive by adding ammonia to a silver chloride solution then should it dry out - could go BOOM.

    Ammonia reacts with many other metals as well.

    https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/amm...ation/ammonia/


    Skin Skin damage depends upon the length and concentration of exposure and can range from mild irritation, to a darkened freeze-dry burn, to tissue destruction.

    Because liquid ammonia boils at -28°F, the expanding gas has the potential to freeze anything in its path of release, including human flesh and organs.


    Because water can absorb ammonia so readily, it is a factor that contributes to human toxicity. Ammonia will keep spreading across contacted skin until the chemical is diluted by skin moisture.

    Alkalis effect tissue differently than acids, which tend to burn and seal off a wound.

    Alkalis, such as ammonia cause liquidization of tissue and turn tissue into a sticky "goo" and mix with this tissue, causing further damage. As a result, anhydrous ammonia burns keep spreading until the chemical is diluted.

    In addition to liquidization, super-cooled anhydrous ammonia spray causes a freeze dry effect like frost bite when it hits the skin. The spray is also capable of freezing clothing to skin so that if the clothing is removed incorrectly whole sections of skin can be torn off.

    High concentrations in the air can also dissolve in the moisture of the skin or perspiration and result in a corrosive action on the skin and mucous membranes.
    Last edited by alloy2; 12-18-2016 at 03:16 AM.

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    I am trying to find a way to safely remove the gasses from ammonia fridges as part of a larger contract to reclaim coolant from 100's on fridges and freezers. I will try to leave the fluids alone.

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    Quote Originally Posted by saleric View Post
    I am trying to find a way to safely remove the gasses from ammonia fridges as part of a larger contract to reclaim coolant from 100's on fridges and freezers. I will try to leave the fluids alone.
    I gather from this thread that your not certified to work with ammonia in such concentrations found in absorption refrigeration, household ammonia is between 5 and 10%. Ammonia in higher concentrations would require certification.

    One mistake and the Hazmat team will be all over you like fleas on a dog, your first mistake is taking on a project your not qualified to do.You'll end up paying more money in fines and court costs that you'll make on this project.

    I see your from Kamloops, why not contact the fellow on the highway heading into Armstrong and another shop in Enderby who repairs RV fridges and see if they are interested in buying some of your cooling units.

    https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/ammonia_refrigeration/emergency/

    Ammonia is considered a high health hazard because it is corrosive to the skin, eyes, and lungs.

    Exposure to 300 ppm is immediately dangerous to life and health. If the possibility of exposure above 300 ppm exists, use a MSHA/NIOSH approved self-contained breathing apparatus with a full facepiece operated in a pressure-demand or other positive-pressure mode.

    Ammonia is also flammable at concentrations of approximately 15 to 28% by volume in air. When mixed with lubricating oils, its flammable concentration range is increased. It can explode if released in an enclosed space with a source of ignition present, or if a vessel containing anhydrous ammonia is exposed to fire.
    Last edited by alloy2; 12-19-2016 at 02:12 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by saleric View Post
    I am trying to find a way to safely remove the gasses from ammonia fridges as part of a larger contract to reclaim coolant from 100's on fridges and freezers. I will try to leave the fluids alone.
    Problem is the water is saturated with ammonia, there is very little ammonia residing as a gas. The hydrogen was added as a gas to evacuate ( purge ) oxygen before sealing the unit for service. The purpose of the hydrogen is to protect the parts of the cooling unit that are made from steel from corrosion.

    The proper way to evacuate and recover the ammonia would be by tapping the system near the top of the system, then using a pump draw off the ammonia as a gas discharging the gas into a suitable pressure vessel to where the ammonia gas is compressed into a liquid.

    The technician performing this work would need to use equipment certified to handle ammonia as both a gas and a liquid. Even with the proper equipment you could still run into a problems as stated earlier ammonia has a very low boiling point, drawing off gas to quickly could cause freeze ups ending up with blockages in the lines.

    I believe the wikipedia author made an error stating that hydrogen was used in absorption fridges. Nitrogen would have been preferred.


    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement
    Hydrogen embrittlement is the process by which metals such as steel become brittle and fracture due to the introduction and subsequent diffusion of hydrogen into the metal. This is often a result of accidental introduction of hydrogen during forming and finishing operations. This phenomenon was first described in 1875

    Last edited by alloy2; 12-19-2016 at 01:48 PM.

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    Hi Alloy2, Thanks for the input. You're right, I have no training in this. I understood, when I started that I was dealing just with gaseous NH3. When I had a small explosion, I stopped to do this investigation. I have been very open about it. I asked 3 ammonia fridge manufacturers; the one who responded didn’t know how to help. The other two have not responded.I anonymously, I asked ,..
    The Recycling Council of BC
    Consulted the Hazardous Waste Regulations of BC
    Several businesses in the Hazardous Waste recycling; they said “If you have a barrel of ammonia, we can give you a price in disposing of it but we can offer no advice on removing it from fridges.”
    Talked with a professional chemical consultant; he suggested that it is probably the hydrogen that exploded.
    The Ministry of the Environment knew nothing.
    Waste Management of BC knew nothing.
    WorkSafe BC new nothing.

    I have just written a letter to BC Safety Authority to get their input.
    I did contact the the shop you mentioned in Enderby and he suggested the method that I put forward, that is to turn the unit upside down, let it settle and crack the valve to allow the gas to leak out slowly. He said that he sometimes hacksaws into a line to relieve the pressure.
    So, it has been quite a journey. I got very little input from this forum when I started. I understood from one experienced fellow that he used his piercing tool to pierce a line and then bubble the gas into a bucket of water. Sorry, the tool will not pierce a steel line.

    I won't go further until the investigation is complete and I hear from BC Safety Authority.

    I appreciate your input, Merry Christmas,
    Eric


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