Does this sound about right?

**jw7783** · 02-27-2014, 04:57 PM

I was looking over my most recent scrap ticket today and was just wondering if these prices are around what most people are getting. Looking at Lt Iron, it says 200/ton but I only got $.089 per pound, which would come out to 178/ton? Also, it seems like for $.20/lb for electric motors, I should strip the copper off of them. Or am I wrong?
O/S was for Al, but does O/S stand for something?

And a question about copper with solder: if you cut off the part with solder is it worth more?

**MattInTheHat** · 02-27-2014, 05:07 PM

LT Iron you were payed in gross ton aka metric ton...2240 lbs

that's not a great price for the motors. Some motors are easier to strip than others, and some have more copper than others. It depends on your skills, tools, and how much your time is worth to you

O/S could be Old Sheet I have seen that as a grade of AL

what were the fins?

**jw7783** · 02-27-2014, 05:11 PM

That makes sense, thank you. And I'll check to see if they have enough copper to be worth it.
Old Sheet is probably it since it was a lot of older motorcycle engines/small engines.
Fins were radiators and A/C radiators(?)

**MattInTheHat** · 02-27-2014, 05:12 PM

Originally Posted by jw7783

That makes sense, thank you. And I'll check to see if they have enough copper to be worth it.
Old Sheet is probably it since it was a lot of older motorcycle engines/small engines.
Fins were radiators and A/C radiators(?)

aluminum, or copper and aluminum radiator?

**jw7783** · 02-27-2014, 05:15 PM

I think 2 were aluminum and 1 was Al/Cu
And the A/C ones were aluminum with copper tubes still in it, but ends clipped off

**parttimescrapperMD** · 02-27-2014, 05:21 PM

If you cut the solder you should get #2 instead of irony copper.

**MattInTheHat** · 02-27-2014, 05:22 PM

the al/cu are worth more than that. Not sure what the current pricing is, but i would think it should be at least 1.25

the al ones should be a little less than O/S

O/S should be closer to .50

Is this a small yard or a large one?

**MattInTheHat** · 02-27-2014, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by parttimescrapperMD

If you cut the solder you should get #2 instead of irony copper.

It should be #2 with solder unless its excessive. #1 with no solder if its not overly corroded

**jw7783** · 02-27-2014, 05:27 PM

It isn't really small but not huge, they do processing on site inside a huge warehouse. Outside is completely paved with a pile for large Al, Steel, and heavy steel.
Welcome to G&S Scrap Metal is there site
Thinking about it now, they basically take it how you seperate it, they don't really look at it unless its obviously in the wrong spot
I just had the radiators stacked together so that might be why

**MattInTheHat** · 02-27-2014, 05:35 PM

talk to them when you bring a load in. Ask a few questions each time. Don't take up their whole day with questions.

When they see that you want to sort things properly, and come in organized, they should start offering advice without you asking. The easier you make their job, the easier they will make yours.

I can unload 500 lbs of non ferrous faster than a lot of people do 100 lbs. I have also earned the privilege of dumping my own aluminum buckets...and no one gets to do that at the yard I use.

**MattInTheHat** · 02-27-2014, 05:37 PM

Do you do computer scrap?

**jw7783** · 02-27-2014, 05:54 PM

I will next time I go. I wanna help them if they'll help me.
And I'm slowly learning about it on here, I did one tower and an extra hard drive, a few cd drives, some monitors, and a 55" flat screen. Still trying to learn about the boards mainly

**MattInTheHat** · 02-27-2014, 06:01 PM

On their site they say they buy alloys. maybe you could bring the hard drive magnets in for them to look at and let us know what they say. I think it has been determine that a chisel is the most effective way to separate the magnet from the backing plate.

The backing plate is an alloy and the magnet is a rare earth metal. We have all been looking for a buyer that will buy the magnets or the backing plates but the only real option we have is ebay or craft people.

**jw7783** · 02-27-2014, 06:04 PM

Oh I thought it was Al, I'll have to go grab it out of the bin. I use the HDD magnets as metal testers, lose and break em every once in a while so I keep a few extras
But I'll definitely ask them if they do next time I go. They sell for about $1+ apiece on ebay

**MattInTheHat** · 02-27-2014, 06:08 PM

they might have to get their alloy person to look at it.

Sometimes they will have a slight attraction to stainless, just to warn you.

**jw7783** · 02-27-2014, 06:20 PM

What do you mean? Like they might say it is stainless?

**MattInTheHat** · 02-27-2014, 06:22 PM

sometimes it will make you think stainless is magnetic

**jw7783** · 02-27-2014, 07:47 PM

You lost me there..

**ryanw** · 02-27-2014, 08:44 PM

jw7783 - The hard drive magnet is so strong, that sometimes even stainless is attracted to it that otherwise would pass as non-magnetic.

**jw7783** · 02-27-2014, 08:49 PM

Ahhhhh, I see what you mean. I don't get too much stainless magnetic or NM, but I tried it on a known NM piece and it didnt stick at all
Thank you for clearing that up ryan