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eScrap Component Identification

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  1. #1
    armstrt8 started this thread.
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    eScrap Component Identification

    I am doing my best to research and learn what im looking at on a circuit board. Can anyone confirm for me if I have these pieces identified correctly? I generally remove the copper, aluminum, and tantalum caps and leave everything else on. I removed just for pics and identification

    Can anyone tell me what the things in my "?" box are?


    How do you tell the difference between tantalum caps and the plastic looking ceramic caps?






    2 and 3 are both IC chips, right? Would you take any of these chips off the board?




    Any and all help is appreciated!!!
    Last edited by armstrt8; 10-26-2014 at 06:59 PM.


  2. #2
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    Personally I would leave all that on the board. Maybe remove #8 and 9. The last pic use a different color so we know what your pointing at

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    BRASSCATCHER's Avatar
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    http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/e-was...ification.html

    All your answers are in the thread above.
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  4. #4
    Mechanic688's Avatar
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    I'll let someone comment about the board (I'd sell as is) but #5 the black item to the right is a stand-up transistor. # 12 is also called a crystal.
    The 2 items (one on a heatsink) to the large pic are (I don't know right offhand) and the barrel thing right beside with the stripe is a diode. Maybe Miked can help here with the transistor looking thingies, I never had any dealings with those kind of parts when I was doing radio repair.
    #10 also called pushbutton switches. (pssstt, break them open and see the lil pretty round gold disc). That's all I got for now, everything else you've got a handle on.

    Nice pic's by the way
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  6. #5
    webuyselltradestuff's Avatar
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    pull most (ie easy to pull off) copper bearing form any brown boards (like in your pic)....they will be worth more than the brown board, but don't take much time doing it. I personally PULL all tantalum as the downgrade has never been much if any and I get to sell for $25-40/lb....take awhile to get that much, but I just have a big container I put it all in along with the other tantalum and it adds up over time....once full it is about 8-10lbs....so nice extra payday.
    PROFIT is made when you BUY/ACQUIRE NOT when you sell

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  8. #6
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    2: bridge rectifier
    5: 2 resistors and a transistor
    7: electrolytic capacitor
    On Low Grade boards:
    Pull the transistors if they show metal (it's clad copper), transformers and aluminum
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    Number 5 is a power transister and the back should be Cu. The one on the heat sink and the one next to it is also a transistor or similar. Check the back of all of those I have addressed and see if they aren't Cu.

    Like much of what all of us do the effort is only worth it if it is worth it to you. Mike
    "Profit begins when you buy NOT when you sell." {quote passed down to me from a wise man}

    Now go beat the copper out of something, Miked

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  12. #8
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    I don't think 1 is correct because that body's coted in epoxy(but it's not mica either). I thought #2 were voltage regulators(the ones i have have voltage marked on em some in dc, some in amps). Does 4 say relay on it or does it give a uf number(ie: .2uf). If it says relay on it it's a relay, if it says uf(unifarads) it's a block capacitor. That small silver thing on your question list looks like a controller crystal(operates at a certin mhz to control a function). That black cylinder looks like a resistor of some sort(have a bunch of em from some ham radio equipment and pc power supplies - their closer to a watt resistance I believe). That IC attatched to the heatsink and the one next to it look like regulators of some sort(not sure what) and that square looks like a surface mount capacitor. The chips in your last pic are machine soldered with high-temp solder and aren't worth getting off the board(i've tried getting them off with a butane torch and while they do come off, the torch ends up leaving scorch marks and rendering the rest of the board useless).

    Just my 0.02 on the subject,
    Matt

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  14. #9
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    Today's Electronics Lesson:
    Resistance is measured in Ohms (R)
    Power is measured in Watts (P)
    Current is measured in Amps. (I)
    Voltage is measured in (yep!) Volts (E)
    Ohm's Law: E = I x R
    All these things are usually modified as follows:
    .001 =Milli
    .000001 = Micro
    .000000001= Nano
    .000000000001 = Pico
    1,000 = 1K
    1,000,000 = 1 Meg
    Capacitance is measured in Farads
    1uf = 1 microfarad
    1pf = 1 picofarad
    Last edited by spinroch; 10-27-2014 at 10:19 AM.

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  16. #10
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    I thought #2 were voltage regulators(the ones i have have voltage marked on em some in dc, some in amps). Does 4 say relay on it or does it give a uf number(ie: .2uf). If it says relay on it it's a relay, if it says uf(unifarads) it's a block capacitor.
    To clear up a couple of points, #2 is called a bridge rectifier (can take 120ac and change it to 12dc volts at whatever amps it is marked). Second point is if it's marked uf then that's the symbol for microfarad (I believe that's a millionth of a farad).

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    In your ? box there is one small tan square. It is an MLC or MLCC monolithic ceramic capacitor. They are worth keeping for the silver, palladium, etc. content.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechanic688 View Post
    To clear up a couple of points, #2 is called a bridge rectifier (can take 120ac and change it to 12dc volts at whatever amps it is marked). Second point is if it's marked uf then that's the cymbal(sp) for microfarad (I believe that's a millionth of a farad).
    Glad to know what they are now, are they worth anything or should I leave em in my bucket. Also, you're quite correct: uf is micrifarad and is a millionth of a farad(God only know where I got unifarad from lol).

    -Matt

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechanic688 View Post
    To clear up a couple of points, #2 is called a bridge rectifier (can take 120ac and change it to 12dc volts at whatever amps it is marked). Second point is if it's marked uf then that's the cymbal(sp) for microfarad (I believe that's a millionth of a farad).
    The transformer turns the 110 AC into lower voltage 12volts AC.
    The bridge rectifier turn the AC power into DC power.

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