Washing Machine - Page 2

If it has a stailess drum it gets stripped but i have not found it worth my time to pull the motor. Ijust cut the cord, im not saying im right, but it works for me.

Yes, stainless drum would be important to remove. I will give a full effort on removing my next motor just for experience. I get around .10 lb for mixed light iron and I know that motot added some good weight to my total anyways, but experience is priceless, even if it from time to time it costs us money.

Like everyone else, I cut the cord, pull the wiring harness, and if it is not too much of a hassle, I will pull the motor. In addition, I will also usually pull off the sheet metal directly under the control knobs as it is usually aluminum. Also, the drum makes a very nice storage area for smaller steel scrap. I usually keep the smaller pieces in 5 gallon buckets, then after I load the washer on my flatbed trailer I will dump the buckets in the drum. If you load it before putting it in your truck or trailer it can be a royal pain, as a washer (or even dryer) with a drum loaded with smaller scrap can be very heavy.

Originally Posted by wayne1956

Like everyone else, I cut the cord, pull the wiring harness, and if it is not too much of a hassle, I will pull the motor. In addition, I will also usually pull off the sheet metal directly under the control knobs as it is usually aluminum. Also, the drum makes a very nice storage area for smaller steel scrap. I usually keep the smaller pieces in 5 gallon buckets, then after I load the washer on my flatbed trailer I will dump the buckets in the drum. If you load it before putting it in your truck or trailer it can be a royal pain, as a washer (or even dryer) with a drum loaded with smaller scrap can be very heavy.

Great point with the drum as storage for smaller scrap. My next washer I am on it like flies on sheet!

Originally Posted by Saroro

The magnet is limited in a way. You could have a copper ball, but if it had an iron core, your magnet would still stick. You can't test metal, unless you know nothing around it will affect it. The motor most likely has a non ferrous core, with a ferrous shell, hence the magnet would stick.

Good point. I know I've hit on stuff that stuck with a magnet, but upon closer inspection it was backed with steel/tin. Like a painted aluminum sheet that was up against a steel backing. Or in the case of SS restaurant equipment, I've come across stuff that caught the magnet, only to find it was catching the steel frame behind it.

Originally Posted by chrisblackcat

Good point. This washer was semi stripped when I got it. At the very bottom is what I believe was the pump, but I guess it would be a pump motor. I removed the bolts and tried to pull it out to get a good look at it, but something keep it from coming out completely. It was heavy. I should have kept at it, obviously it would have come out some way, but I could only get it to pull down about 3 inches or so and then it was stopped/caught...maybe some other connector I did not see.

Been awhile since I stripped a washer, but if I recall correctly you will need to pop the cap off the agitator and remove a nut, then pull agitator/spinner assembly out.

Ok just did a washer dryer today. Once i got all the bolts free i simiply slid the motor back a few inches that pulled some of the plastic holding the shaft out of the tub just enough. Then i took my sheet metal hammer and busted the plastic loose from the shaft. Came right out. The dryer in reverse pull the ductwork off the back after removing the back panel break the plastic fan to piecse and hit the shaft until it pops out. Im getting a sledge hammer tomorrow from the hardware store and it should speed it up even more. I srapped the washer and dryer in less than ten minutes. All copper motors and brass fittings. Hope this helps.

At the bottom, center of the washer unit is the transmission ( if that is what it is called ) which continues up into the metal washer drum. Not sure of the best way to remove this, I started unbolting the bottom half of the transmission to free it up to slide it up into the drum when I realized that there is a spring under 200lbs of pressure. I stopped taking out the bolts. This piece of metal would have shot out at me at 200lbs force. So, just a word to use caution when dealing with anything spring loaded. I will retry using tinman#30 method working from inside the drum and busting off the plastic sleeve and pull unit down out of the washer unit. BTW, this tranny is mostly cast aluminum, and very large.

Originally Posted by ArgonWelding

Magnetic stainless pays the same as shreddable steel at both yards I go to. It's the nickel they want. Not very much of it in magnetic stainless.

Same here. If it's sticky, it sells as tin.

Originally Posted by Mick

Here, all stainless pays the same. It's in pricing category of its own - one yard pays 0.75/lb; another pays 0.60/lb - but they pay that for all stainless steel. At one yard, they told me they separate it there before shipping it out.

Mick, does that mean a mix of magnetic and non magnetic stainless? I have been keeping the non magnetic separate and any magnetic mixing it in with my light iron. Sounds like I am making a mistake doing that.

Pots and pans and forks spoons and knives are a good example. They all look the same, but some are magnetic and some are not. Should the magnetic (stainless ) pots pans spoons forks knives etc be turned as such? I will call one of my yards in the am.

Interesting Mick. Some pots, pans, spoons, forks, and knives I run into, both magnetic and non magnetic, sometimes do not have any ID stamped on them, but I think it would be safe to assume anything pots, pans, pans, spoons, and forks are some form of stainless.

probably stupid question, but what do you do with the motors once you've stripped them?

also, the place I take my stuff to does not accept whole appliances and needs to be broken down to pretty much unrecognizable parts. does anybody else have this problem? is it worth it?