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Dilemma!!!

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  1. #1
    dshrader started this thread.
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    Dilemma!!!

    I have been going to my local yard since I started scrapping, about 9 months ago. And, I have to ask some advice of the more experience scrappers on this forum. Because 9 months has not made me wise to some things.



    Here goes: I have stayed with my local yard despite their poorly low prices they pay. 8cents/lb. Scrap metal, #2 copper $2.10 /#, #1 is $2.20 & BB is $2.30...the guy at the scale will never give me anything other than #2...I stripped electrical cords which by my knowledge would be BB since it's nice & shiny. He told my before I even did it that #1 would be if I stripped cords & stuff. So this weekend I went in with a buddy & helped him with his stuff. I stripped enough cords for 3# of copper for my buddy. This guy grabs that can & says:" it's gotta be bigger than a pencil lead to be #1", so he seems to be changing the rules on us. And he already came out & told me one time before that I would probably never have BB. Either this guy is crooked or I have my definitions of BB & #1 waaay off. There is a yard that pays 3cents better on steel & 30 & 35cents better on copper & 25 cents better on cans no matter how many I have. BUT it's 45 minutes away and they pays by check. So I feel unless I had very huge loads (which my loads arent big usually) the extra they pay would just go to gas. PLEASE HELP...not really sure what the right call is here.


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    The rule of thumb for #1 is about pencil lead sized, so he's not getting over on you there.

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    I'll do my best to answer some of your questions. Bare Bright, to me, would be thick sheet copper or copper pipe that is clean, without solder or much oxidation. He's probably right that you'll almost never get bare bright.

    As for number 1 copper, he's right on that too, wire needs to be at least as thick as #2 pencil lead to be considered #1 copper. I believe it has to do with when they process the copper, the thicker wire will melt better with minimal loss, whereas the thinner wire evaporates/ disappears at a higher rate so the price is lower to make up for that.

    As for advice, I would keep stripping wire. If there's a good amount of copper in the wire, or if you have a lot of free time, then it can be worth stripping a lot of the wire you get. The difference is very large. For un-stripped wire, you'll usually get insulated #2 prices (maybe $1/lb if you're lucky) whereas if you strip the wire, you'll get the #2 price that they give you (2.10/lb).

    The guy at this yard is telling you the truth from what I can tell. I have a question for you. Is this your only source of income? If so, then I would probably keep going to the same yard, if it is a side-gig, then I would save up the good stuff (copper and aluminum) and bring it to the other yard when I have a good stock pile. The prices at your local yard aren't very good, and I probably wouldn't bring anything other than steel there, If I could help it.

    As a final note, I'm sure others would mention it, read everything you can find on this forum. It will help you find profit in places you didn't expect.

  4. #4
    dshrader started this thread.
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    Dilemma!!!

    Thank you so much for helping me. This is not my only income. It's just a side thing. I've sold about $450 this year.

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  6. #5
    MattInTheHat's Avatar
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    I always heard that bare bright had to be stripped solid core wire very bright and larger than a pencil lead.
    Currently looking for a job in or related to scrap/recycling. Relocation is possible for the right offer.

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  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattInTheHat View Post
    I always heard that bare bright had to be stripped solid core wire very bright and larger than a pencil lead.
    You may be right Matt, I was guessing, but I do know that #1 and #2 are far more common

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    It may be helpful to many of you to read the scrap metal specifications And guidelines circular . Its the scrap law according to ISRI ( Institute of Scrap Recycling Industries ) Everybody and anybody who scraps for more then a hobby should read and learn most if not all the descriptions and the guidelines set forth for Non- ferrous / Ferrous / Glass / paper / Plastic / Electronic / tire. You can either order the latest version or download for free a later version of the circular. These are the guidelines that ALL scrap yards buying and selling scrap must follow.

    Commodities-Specifications
    Last edited by manchvegassalvage; 08-11-2014 at 07:47 PM.
    Sean Beuque
    Go Green Recycling
    1480 Broadway Rd
    Dracut, Ma 01826
    info@gogreenrecycling.net

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  11. #8
    dshrader started this thread.
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    Dilemma!!!

    Thank you manch

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  13. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dshrader View Post
    Thank you manch
    There's a button for that.

    As far as I have always heard BB was thick bright Cu wire. All else was #1 (without solder) #2 (with solder)

    Eric
    I buy Tantalum Capacitors and offer other services. Check out my thread for more info.

    http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/scrap...-cap-more.html

    http://recycletantalumcapacitors.com/

  14. #10
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    The yard here has always been an incredible help to me here. Here they take anything thicker than pencil lead as BB (so basically romex+). I stripped a 20 pound pile of the fishing line type stuff and he priced it as #2. I originally had it all in one big pile, but he took the time to open the bags up and separate it and get me a better price. They have separated my aluminum into a variety of piles, took the time to bring a grinder over once and show me the diff between stainless and aluminum, pulled a big chunk of coated brass out of my aluminum once.

    I say find a better yard! I do have the luxury here of dozens to choose from haha

  15. #11
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    well in my area that man is wrong.....anything shiny is number 1....and wire thicker than a pencil lead is number one even if it is not shiny.....we dont call it bear bright just 1 and 2

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