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Hello everybody! I am newer to scrapping so bare with me :) when you say windings...I get that part but if you all are running into volume like that are we talking electric motors? where would one find a "winding" I would presume all from elec motors? thanks!!
http://www.lowes.com/pd_151510-29990...e&kpid=3386534
This type of blade is safer -cuts slower - last long - I even cut steel
Just the same get a grip . Our work is not safe but holding it is the only way to get the leverage you need
using a pliers you could easily lose grip and things will go flying .
motors transformers each one has a trick to get copper out .Quote:
Originally Posted by AMiller
I recently turned in a load of non ferrous - relatively small. 135.00 - insulated copper, 272 LB of electric motors.some cast and sheet alum..2 contractor bags of cans WOOP WOOP. haha..alot of that weight was cast steel casings on 5 big motors I had, which was nice because my yard gave me straight motor price on all 272 LB. although, I would be interested to see what I could have gotten weight wise in copper. I think I will start cutting them and saving the copper to compare numbers. Thanks!
Look at the picture and take heed. I used to literally hold/cup the stator in my hand and run right through the windings with a 4.50 grinder. Every once it would bite and pull. Well got lucky until the two times it bit, drug across the windings, and into my hand. Luckily it cauterizes the wound so its doesn't bleed too much. But it is quite painful when the doctor is pulling chunks of disk and copper out of your skin. I leaned the second time as you can tell. The safest method a metal chop saw or a radial arm saw. I'm planning to cut windings soon, so will upload a video demonstrating.
Funny side note is first time, I did this. I jumped in the truck after wrapping my hand up. When right to the yard to unload. Yard guy yelling and hollering because I dripped blood all over his desk and floor. After I explained I need gas money to get home from the hospital, he calmed down. But he told me I was a fing dumbass idiot and hopefully lesson learned. Well I did it one more time and that was it. Now use the chop saw or radial arm saw for everything. Side note, I picked up a 14" chop saw from a contractor off of craigslist for 50 bucks. Its a rigid and lifetime guareentee. I can return it anytime I want at home depot. A lot cheaper than being one handed for life if extremely unlucky.
http://s4.postimg.org/e61brblkp/20150521_054630.jpg
People try a diamond blade they CUT and come in size that will retro fit grinders and saws
Yes slower cut
yes more noise
but if the blade hits you hand
you might at best get a friction burn .
Sure it could cut your finger off but it would have to be intentional
A few weeks ago I mentioned how I cut a rotor off MY Dodge well I used my grinder with diamond blade
I have lost count how many cuts , same blade for a year
It's logical a blade that cuts cement or granite will cut metals
I just want to add a level of safety to this tablesaw idea. A small table mounted on the tablesaws Tsquare would sure help. If you have the table in line with the blade and clap the work down the guide on the Tsquare will make it cut straight with little to no jumping like doing it by hands
And did I mention a hell of a lot safer!!!!!
http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/attac...7&d=1432233447
Abuilder
best idea
If you are not 100% sure about power tools.
Use a carpenters chisel and hammer.
A good sharp (!) Chisel will cut thru the loops on the end of the windings, flat with the end face of the iron core.
It may take more energy, maybe not. But it cuts thru the Copper nicely, returns more Copper in the finish and well, co$t$ nothing.