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Best way to cut off an oil drum head?

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    Best way to cut off an oil drum head?

    Slightly off topic but I'm trying to get some advice from any of you guys who have cut the tops of oil drums. What's the best/safest way? Got a few that I'd like to start using for wire storage. They used to hold petroleum based oil, basically emptied out before I got them. Thanks.



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    We would use a saws all.

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    Long stroke air chisel, keep it close to the rim and work your way around the perimiter.

    Quote Originally Posted by APA View Post
    We would use a saws all.
    This would work too but hard on blades.

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    Would anyone recommend an angle grinder with cutting blade or no? Would sparks be a major problem even if its been emptied and rinsed a few times?

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    I've heard of using the air chisel from a few people, seems like it'd leave a decently smooth cut.

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    Easiest way i can think of is a can opener ....

    J/K

    I've always done them with a cutting torch. (If there are any concerns you could always fill em water first.)

    Seems like an ankle grinder or air chisel would work pretty well too. ( They might strike a spark.)

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    Should it be filled all the way to the top? Want to be safe as possible. Ill most likely use grinder.


    Quote Originally Posted by Scrappah View Post
    Easiest way i can think of is a can opener ....

    J/K

    I've always done them with a cutting torch. (If there are any concerns you could always fill em water first.)

    Seems like an ankle grinder or air chisel would work pretty well too. ( They might strike a spark.)

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    Quote Originally Posted by 516 View Post
    Would anyone recommend an angle grinder with cutting blade or no? Would sparks be a major problem even if its been emptied and rinsed a few times?
    It's the empty containers that go BOOM.

    I've cut openings into 1000 gallon propane tanks to add fittings but filled them to the top with water first, even then you might have a reaction but not enough to run for the of so soft zee tollet paper. Another methode used by welders is to fiull the tank with Co2 or carbon monoxide which is easily produced from a gasoline engine. The trick is knowing when there's enough inert gas inside the tank and that all the oxygen has been displaced.

    Personally I'm of the opinion if your not experianced with cutting containers that held flamibles leave em alone.

    Fuel trucks loading or off loading product or those working in the oil field all have a grounding wire that must be first attached to a suitable ground, yes even static electricity can set off an explosion.

    Brass alloy wrenches and tools ( non sparking ) are used in the oil field.

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    Quote Originally Posted by alloy2 View Post
    It's the empty containers that go BOOM.

    I've cut openings into 1000 gallon propane tanks to add fittings but filled them to the top with water first, even then you might have a reaction but not enough to run for the of so soft zee tollet paper. Another methode used by welders is to fiull the tank with Co2 or carbon monoxide which is easily produced from a gasoline engine. The trick is knowing when there's enough inert gas inside the tank and that all the oxygen has been displaced.

    Personally I'm of the opinion if your not experianced with cutting containers that held flamibles leave em alone.

    Fuel trucks loading or off loading product or those working in the oil field all have a grounding wire that must be first attached to a suitable ground, yes even static electricity can set off an explosion.

    Brass alloy wrenches and tools ( non sparking ) are used in the oil field.

    I might just have to fill it up then. Thanks man.

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    research Vestil D-HEAD-1 Manual Drum Deheader

    old day job generated empty 55's but disposal became a problem in the late 1900's due to residue inside and the tops still on. scrap yards would not touch an empty drum that still had a lid. we either had to PAY a drum reconditioner to clean and repaint the empties or cut the tops off ourselves.

    the D-Head-1 cut the inside lip like a can opener and left no jagged edges.

    once we cleaned out any liquids left at the bottom we never had a problem having them hauled away usually filled with steel scrap from the machine shop

    this model don't cut in one pass, takes about 3 to 4 passes but for the price point you trade off with a little extra effort.

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    Yep, above post is correct.
    There's different versions, for a few extra $$ both ways. You can get a drum deheader that cuts from the outside of the top lip.

    What this means is that the drums top edge is reinforced, and the lids can act as a replaceable lid. Watertight from rain etc.
    They make great rubbish bins, scrap metal bins etc.

    I uses to use a cold chisle around the inside of the lid, then put the drum on its side and bash the sharp edge in flat with a hammer, no burrs then. It does a good job.
    But, once there was a 'wump' sound (thru my earmuffs)....
    I have always wondered about that.
    I was doing it to a empty drum of Petroleum Ether.... Hexane, Colman's lighter fluid, 'Clean cut of Gasoline' is another name....
    There's plenty about the dangers of empty fuel drums on the internet.
    Followed by, "Use a proper drum deheader"......

    Gasolines made from oil fumes..... And so don't use a gas torch with its extra pure oxygen supply....

    Last time I did one, a oil drum. I used a 9 inch angle grinder flat with the drums lid, cut in from the inside, outwards into the inside of the rim.
    It worked well, but there was plenty of rubbing against the metal and so lots of 'blue hot metal', red hot metal too, and sparks falling into the enclosed drum.
    I get the impression I am rolling the dice every time I do it. Even if its a oil drum.

    Use a drum deheader and sell used drums.


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