id stick to the 12valve over the ford for towing a trailer that size
i have a 2000 doge 2500, 24valve cummins, 16 foot miska equipment trailer with winch. plus two smaller run about trailers. next year big dump trailer lol
id stick to the 12valve over the ford for towing a trailer that size
i have a 2000 doge 2500, 24valve cummins, 16 foot miska equipment trailer with winch. plus two smaller run about trailers. next year big dump trailer lol
2006 ford ranger sport 2wd- fully loaded garage queen with 20k
2002 ford crown victoria- stripped toy and workhorse.
Ranger:
Vic:
95 F250 5.8L with topper - nice pretty blue color too ...now I just need a trailer for those precious E-scrap!
Back in 2011 we registered for a local parade.
http://imgur.com/Mk4gBgb
Last edited by Mechanic688; 05-10-2013 at 03:33 AM. Reason: added pic.
hey barrel you know what paint code that is for your truck? Because i really like it.
You can check out DAR-4110 - I'm not positive it's the same but it is on a label for Medium Blue touchup paint that I got with the truck.
We have a 2000 Ford E350 7.3 litre Powerstroke diesel The A Team van.
12 foot tandem trailer.
We have moved more away from scrap to items worth more than scrap value.
Instead of tearing apart the bar b q for $12.00 we sell them at garage sales for $50 to $75 for propane. $75 to $100 for natural gas.
Lawnmowers $25 to $50
Weed wackers $15 to $35.
Keep the good stuff or easily fixed and you'll get copper prices for everything.
picture of my 97 f250 1 ton suspension 7.3
nice sleeper van diva..is their a futon in the back? i had one close to that many years ago
Yup all mine! The rear flap fell of due to massive overload!
i like the ford with the flatbed
It could be me!!
Bought this a few weeks ago. Runs "okay", but the guy I got it from said it randomly quit on him a few times. I banged on the fuel tank to get it going, that was several weeks ago and so far so good, but I know I'm on borrowed time. Gotta make some $$ while it's still running so I can get parts. It's always something.
Anyways, it's a 2000 Chevy S-10 4.3 auto with 183k.
2000 f350 4dr diesel dually
1984 intl 1900 dump
7x16 tandem axle trailer ( rarely use for scrap)
5x10 beater trailer with 4' sides
A bit more background on the truck. When I first saw the ad he said it died and he wasn't sure what was wrong with it, but thought it was the fuel pump. So I contacted him, said I was interested and went over with trailer and cash, thinking I was picking up a dead truck that I can't hear run. I get there and he says it has died a few times, but after a few hours it will start back up. So he hops in and it fires right up. Sounds good. No unusual noises, etc. So I explain I thought I was buying a dead truck and I only brought X amount. We haggled and settled on a price. Drove it on the trailer, and headed home.
All of this took place on a Friday afternoon. On the way home my truck dies and will not restart. I figure maybe it has vapor locked...I get it out of the road enough for cars to pass and call for a ride. Go back a few hours later and it fires right up.
Turns out it was a burnt distributor harness. So that's all fixed and back on the road again.
So I am home and go to start the S-10 and get it off the trailer. No go. Wait a few hours, still a no go. I then had the idea to cycle the key a few times to make the pump run several times. Fires right up.
Being the mechanic I am not, I don't know what I should look at next. Figured a fuel filter is cheap, so I change that out. It could be my imagination but it seemed to start and run better. So I go drive it for 20 minutes and all seems well. Then I went to lunch, ran fine. Came home. Mom called later in the day about a dryer she saw setting out so I went to go get it and truck dies.
That's when I tried banging on the tank and got it going again. Has ran ever since, so then I don't know if it's the pump, or a loose connection at the harness. In my research I found that some of the harnesses melt and loose contact. I did notice this truck has had a new harness put in at some point. Whether my banging on it jarred it enough to work, I don't know. It could be the pump itself. A mechanic I am not.
Didn't think about the screen. Grounds were pretty bad so I cleaned those up, but I can't be certain that was the cause of it. I did have the bed off and inspected what I could, and while it was off the mechanic looked at it. His diagnosis? "Well, it's running so I can't do much." That doesn't seem right. He did check fuel pressure, says it's good. But that was at idle and I understand it to be different under load, which brings me to my next point.
Another reason I am leaning towards the fuel pump is it intermittently shudders at a constant speed, but if I floor it or let off it runs "okay", being that it has a rough idle, but it's not triggering a CEL.
Also I cut open the old fuel filter and it looked fairly clean, so either way I don't think I had an issue there.
Thought the fuel pump went out on my Ford Van so I put a new one in everything seemed fine then dead again. Used a meter to check continuity and voltage at the pump before taking it out again and found the ground terminal was just corroded enough to be the problem. I'm glad the previous owner cut a access hatch above the pump making this a much easier job.
Recyclable Material Merchant Wholesaler
Certified Zip-Tie Mechanic
"Give them enough so they can do something with it, but not too much that they won't do nothing."
just upgraded from a 99 ram 15004x4 with 5.9 gas engine to a 98 ram 2500 4x4 with gas v10 engine.
now just need to get the trailer wiring fixed on the truck to i can pull my 2012 18 foot eletric tilt hull trailer. it sucks sitting here now for week and a half not making any money hauling junk cars because i have to fix the trucks trailer wiring. anyway here is my truck and trailer.
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