help me buy a new (used) truck

**bluemeate** · 12-19-2014, 11:32 AM

So I got my 2wd, 2.5l, manual yr2000 ford ranger at 120,000 from my uncle 5 years ago and rode it and rode it and rode it, at 192,000miles its still going... weak. i used to hit 75mph just fine but now on just an incline, i struggle to get 60.

I still want a small economy truck as my loads usually come in under 1/2ton and most my miles are freeway miles with usually less than 200lbs of stuff in the cab/bed. so yeah, maybe you guys could help me find something.
-Im thinking an older simpler truck would be swell as well that way i could learn to work on it, I have two good buddies who know toyotas inside and out and i hear those are the easiest to work on... I also like the box-ier, retro look of older trucks too
-manual is a must, and id like to be getting at least 25mpg on the freeway (i accelerate and drive slowly, id like to think im light on my engine)
-ideally, id like a little more power than what the 2.5l has to offer, although i still would like to run a 4cyl engine for the fuel savings.
-something I could put a tow hitch on for a little 1/2 to 1ton trailer?.
-I live in the city so a short truck is great although if the bed of my truck got any smaller (4x6.5ft), i feel like thatd be a problem
-also lower is better
-I realllly reallly want a bench seat cuase my girl doesnt like to ride on the raised middle seat cuase it makes her taller than me

currently my truck needs
-new ball joints, front and rear suspension,(any idea how much that will run me for parts and labor?)
replacement of two tires
-my check engine light just turned on for an 02 sensor
-the throttle starts randomly guzzling down gas when my foot is off the pedal since i first got the truck 70k miles ago
and well the engine is weak as hell. if i slam down on the gas my engine starts knocking, its been doing this since about 150k miles but has been slowly getting worse and worse, ill be in 3rd gear on the freeway just cuase my engine cant handle a regular old hill (mass airflow sensor is all wonked out)
-drivers seat blew a spring and sits crooked
-and it needs a full inspection cuase im sure theres a bunch more things wrong with it
Im thinking this may be the ideal time to sell it and get something new!

**bluemeate** · 12-19-2014, 11:41 AM

posted 41minutes ago

92 Toyota pickup - $3000 (hayward / castro valley)
1992 Toyota odometer: 115000 fuel : gas transmission : manual title status : clean

92 Toyota pickup. 115,000 miles. 5 speed. Awesome work truck. Great gas mileage. Only selling because my work have me a truck. Passed smog last week. These trucks routinely run over 300,000

location and grammar have me thinking this guy is 1st/2nd gen mexican which makes me think he probably takes care of his truck?
I think i should call

**ryanw** · 12-19-2014, 11:53 AM

I was about to post that you should get one of those toyotas. The 22RE engines are almost immortal.

**logansryche** · 12-19-2014, 12:48 PM

I can sort of relate - my 98 f150's getting up their in milage as well(just passed 173,000mi) with the same incline issues. Told it's either the rear end, the u-joints, transmission, or starting coils. I'm leading more towards the transmisison for a variety of reasons.

Originally Posted by bluemeate

currently my truck needs
-new ball joints, front and rear suspension,(any idea how much that will run me for parts and labor?)
replacement of two tires
-my check engine light just turned on for an 02 sensor
-the throttle starts randomly guzzling down gas when my foot is off the pedal since i first got the truck 70k miles ago
and well the engine is weak as hell. if i slam down on the gas my engine starts knocking, its been doing this since about 150k miles but has been slowly getting worse and worse, ill be in 3rd gear on the freeway just cuase my engine cant handle a regular old hill (mass airflow sensor is all wonked out)
-drivers seat blew a spring and sits crooked
-and it needs a full inspection cuase im sure theres a bunch more things wrong with it
Im thinking this may be the ideal time to sell it and get something new!

Ball joints aren't that expensive but their a bear to get the old ones out and the new ones in(Ford pressed these in) and shouldn't run no more then $40 for both the upper and lowers on both sides. Ford never ran ball joints in the rear so if you're having suspension issues in the rear, more then likely your shocks are shot and those are different manner. The O2 sensor isn't that difficult to replace or expensive either(it's located under the drivers side on the tail pipe). Can't help with the seat but the engine getting weak is usualy a sign of either the rear end/u-joint issue that plagues my truck or the transmission on its way out(does it slip in and out of gear?) I supose technically it could also either be the camshaft timing sensor, starting coils, or a bad tune-up/oil change/gas.

The basis of all Rangers up to 1999 when they changed designs was the Aerostar and I know a crap-ton about them. If you're serious about getting a different truck, I would look at a 70s to 80s toyota pickup with the 22re engine, that engine is both gas effecient and nearly bulletproof. Last truck around here I saw with one in it was just over a grand which is about right for market value. Ok, putting the car guy knowledge away now...

**greytruck** · 12-19-2014, 01:07 PM

Originally Posted by ryanw

I was about to post that you should get one of those toyotas. The 22RE engines are almost immortal.

But toyotas have terrible payload comparied to Ford, dodge, chevy

**bluemeate** · 12-19-2014, 01:24 PM

toyota should be able to handle a 1/2ton though, shouldnt it? thats about max i ever load up.
kinda leaning towards a toyota cuase i have couple friends who are really into them and would help me out if i ever ran into problems with mine. but im still open to any other small truck. recommendations?

but if i get my ranger fixed, ill be paying a mechanic to fix it.
I had a new transmission put in at 150,000 miles, feels A-ok

**PickerBenny** · 12-19-2014, 01:43 PM

dodge Dakotas v6 models are nice. 6 speed tranny makes it ok on gas. (1700 rpm at 65 mph) cruising down hills in neutral saves gas. but also consider a regular truck. . they estimate gas at $2.20 by summer time

**Scrappah** · 12-19-2014, 02:00 PM

A 192 k. is getting up there for a Ranger. If you're seriously considering keeping it you might want to get a compression test done. Poor performance could be due to the cylinders & pistons being worn.

The Toyotas are allright but i've seen the frames rust out quickly. I can think of a couple of three year old trucks that had to have their frames replaced. They don't last for very long here in the Northeast.

If you're out in Cali it might be a different story.

**Metalbestos** · 12-19-2014, 02:03 PM

Carb cleaner that O2 sensor and the lack of power is prob a vacuum leak . Check your hoses . The rubber elbow hoses are notorious for cracking and allowing a air into the engine past the intake .

**redcrossnj** · 12-19-2014, 05:50 PM

i agree with benny. my dodge dakota is a tank. im taking it to pittsburgh when i go to trade school next month. they are built to take a beating

**matador** · 12-19-2014, 08:24 PM

I also agree with Benny. I wouldn't buy a Toyota- they're no more truck than the other choices, but you'll pay more.

I own a 1992 Dakota that was an abused farm truck for over 100k miles. I've hauled 1800# in the bed with the 3.9L V6, and was able to do 60 MPH all the way home. I've also towed over 4000# with it. It had the 5 Speed manual, which was nice!

The transfer case broke on it (The last driver went "Off-Roading" a lot), and I was able to replace it myself. The Dakota was easy to work on.

You get all of the "big truck" benefits, in a small truck package. The 2x4 models sit nice and low, too.

When I get another truck, I'll buy a Dakota again in a heartbeat.

Here's a close-up of the load. There were some servers on the bed floor. I had about 1800# on the bed.

**PickerBenny** · 12-19-2014, 10:42 PM

I agree with Benny as well, smart dude he is indeed. Lol, but yes I highly reccomend dodge dakotas. My dodge has 77k and still runs like i drove it off the lot yesterday. I am able to pull heavy loads like a 16 ft aluminum boat & 40 hp evinrude engine, 25 ft camper, and I have pulled a few cars out of the mud as well

. The MPG is fantastic. I regularly fill my tires up to the correct psi (at new sheetz locations, its free and digital air pumps!) and I reach over 22 mpg in curbco.. thats not highway miles either!! Of course I cruize in neutral sometimes to save but its great. The newer dodge dakotas have a 6 speed manual transmission and those are great for the highway mpg's as well. If you take care of a dodge, it will take care of you!

**charn** · 12-20-2014, 01:02 AM

My Ranger's engine took some abuse by running on low oil. The filter required more tightening. With that damage and higher miles it still runs well enough, but it is a 3L V6. So, get a 6.

**Metalbestos** · 12-20-2014, 01:27 AM

Is that wiener mobile for sale ? You could sell hotdogs while you cruise for scrap .

**Grayson97** · 12-20-2014, 10:34 AM

I say stay away from an older 4cyl for free way miles. The trannys are not geared for it. My 2.2 s10 does about 2800 rpms cruising at 70, getting 26mpg while i used a 2006 silverado with a 283 for a while that got 22mpg while doing 80. The extra space and capacity is worth 4 less mpg

**logansryche** · 12-20-2014, 01:05 PM

I'll admit my brother in laws 98 S10 gets good mileage and is fast - pushing 210,000mi with no issues(just had it in the shop to replace the gas lines - it was leaking up above the firewall). He would tow with it but no tailgate, so that'd be another vehicle of choice if you're looking to stay in that small truck/good gas mileage range.

**junkfreak** · 12-22-2014, 12:41 AM

You stated you want to learn to work on it ,your new used truck.

Why would you buy something to learn to work on it when you already have a truck to learn to work on??? And it's a ford easy truck to start with.

**junkfreak** · 12-22-2014, 12:48 AM

Originally Posted by Metalbestos

Carb cleaner that O2 sensor and the lack of power is prob a vacuum leak . Check your hoses . The rubber elbow hoses are notorious for cracking and allowing a air into the engine past the intake .

Good advice.

Op do yourself a favor, buy a manual for your ranger and spend your money on tools.

**bluemeate** · 12-22-2014, 08:21 PM

A 192 k. is getting up there for a Ranger. If you're seriously considering keeping it you might want to get a compression test done. Poor performance could be due to the cylinders & pistons being worn.

I think ill go do this.

Carb cleaner that O2 sensor

as in use the seafoam stuff?

and the lack of power is prob a vacuum leak . Check your hoses . The rubber elbow hoses are notorious for cracking and allowing a air into the engine past the intake .f

is this how to check the hoses? seems quite complicated
How to Find a Vacuum Leak - Smoking Out Vacuum Leaks - Popular Mechanics

how is the mpg on ya'lls dakotas?
im fine with cruising at a steady 65, sometimes even slower

Why would you buy something to learn to work on it when you already have a truck to learn to work on??? And it's a ford easy truck to start with

i thought these newer fords are actually harder to work on. i mean one time i wanted to change a windoe and it required like 15 dif size bolt fittings and an angle grinder, wtf
but i do hear older toyotas are easier to work on.

i actually drove a 22r/e? (the fuel injected one) as my first car in an old minivan. god **** that thing was so tired an underpowered. eventually overheated it and blew the headgasket. the van is still there on the side of the house

**logansryche** · 12-22-2014, 08:52 PM

The 22re is a 4cyl engine that needed to stay in their pickups and 4runners imo... but back to the subject at hand. There's a small rubber elbow off the air intake that dryrots and should be replaced if it's cracked or splitting. You also have smaller vacume lines that are sometimes different colors that you should check to make sure they aren't cracked or broken also. For a Ranger the 98-2000(4th gen I think) actually got really good gas milage and able to haul alot for being less then a 1/2ton pickup(was able to drive from Titusville, FL to Charlotteville, NC and back on a full tank).

Seafoam's good to use as it goes into your gas tank and as it's sucked into the engine, lubricates and frees sludge created by the engine. I use that and engine restore. Engine restore goes into your oil and as it moves through the engine, gives your oil an extra kick.
I'm not sure what Metalbestos was talking about with the carb cleaner but I believe he ment for you to shoot some into the air intake so it'll pass the o2 sensors on its way out the exhaust(the o2 sensors are on either side of the exhaust headers).

Depending on what you want to work on will depend on how hard it is to work on - like on my 98 F150 I have trouble getting to the back of the engine to get to the last two spark plugs because the Tritan's a giant engine compared to the inline six, but once you get the truck up on a lift, their easy like butter to get to.

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