I am building electric wire stripper and need help.

I want a certain type of wire stripper and can not find it anywhere for sale. I see one or two on youtube but the owners made them. I do not want any blades. I want two round wheels (like the rotor on an electric motor) one on top of each other. They can be touching but under pressure. Insert a solid core wire and the wire itself cuts off the insulation.

Well now to get to my problem. I was scrapping a bread maker and saw this motor with a pully already assembled. I do not want the rotor to go very fast. I pulled everything out and today tested the motor to see how fast the rotor would turn. The motor looks brand new but does not run. Help.

I hooked up wires C&D to an extension cord and all I got was a weak buzz from the motor. I also reversed the wires. I did nothing with A&B. I did open up the motor and all four wires are led directly into the stator windings. What do I need to add or how do I connect the wires to get it running?


Here is the motor and pully assembly right from a bread maker.

Dan,

I didn't want to discourage you but i've been down this road before with building both the manual and machine strippers. There's quite a bit of time invested with working through all of the design details. First you build one model as a prototype and end up chasing improvements with every new build. It's called research & development.

The heck of it is that there's no sense in re-inventing the wheel here. This R&D work has already been done by somebody else ages ago.

You can just go and buy a fairly decent electric wire stripping machine for under 170 bucks on ebay. The machine will pay for itself in no time with copper prices being what they are these days.

More to your question though: My guess would be that the two blue wires are your neutral/ground. The yellow and red wires would be hots. Maybe it would run at one speed with yellow energized and another speed with red. I would check the ohms on the individual coils with a multimeter to see if they are within spec. Look up the motor model electrical schematic and see if that gives any clue as to how to hook up the wires.

Could be bad bearings, bad brushes, bad starting capacitor if it's buzzing like that. Also ... the extension cord could be bad. Could be that the gauge of the wire in the extension cord itself isn't heavy enough to handle the initial amp draw needed to get the motor running. ( seen that happen before.)

Visually inspect the stator winding for any burnt spots. Also ... there may be a thermal overload wired in there somewhere. Those can go bad.

Could try plugging it in and giving the motor shaft a twist with your fingers to get the motor spinning. (Just be sure to wear heavy rubber gloves as a safety precaution.) That might tell you something about why the motor isn't working.

Originally Posted by JJinLV

Are you certain that a faulty motor is not why the breadmaker was scrapped?

possible, I should have plugged it in before scrapping.

Originally Posted by hills

I didn't want to discourage you but i've been down this road before with building both the manual and machine strippers. There's quite a bit of time invested with working through all of the design details.

Yes, there is but it is fun and all the design details is in my head.

Originally Posted by hills

there's no sense in re-inventing the wheel here. This R&D work has already been done by somebody else ages ago.

I know that but can you send me in the direction of the type I want? I have had a streipper where the wire sits in a groove and a blade slits the insulation.

Originally Posted by hills

You can just go and buy a fairly decent electric wire stripping machine for under 170 bucks on ebay.

I saw one that had what I wanted plus several holes for groove and blade, it was several hundred dollars. and too big for my work area.

Originally Posted by hills

Could be bad bearings, bad brushes, bad starting capacitor if it's buzzing like that.

no capacitor at all. do all motors need one? When I scrapped the machine I cut away everything that I thought had to do with bread making. I guess I tossed it, if it had one.

Thanks for the other suggestions. I will check them out.

Originally Posted by cyberdan

I want a certain type of wire stripper and can not find it anywhere for sale. I see one or two on youtube but the owners made them. I do not want any blades. I want two round wheels (like the rotor on an electric motor) one on top of each other. They can be touching but under pressure. Insert a solid core wire and the wire itself cuts off the insulation.

Well now to get to my problem. I was scrapping a bread maker and saw this motor with a pully already assembled. I do not want the rotor to go very fast. I pulled everything out and today tested the motor to see how fast the rotor would turn. The motor looks brand new but does not run. Help.

I hooked up wires C&D to an extension cord and all I got was a weak buzz from the motor. I also reversed the wires. I did nothing with A&B. I did open up the motor and all four wires are led directly into the stator windings. What do I need to add or how do I connect the wires to get it running?


Here is the motor and pully assembly right from a bread maker.

Reconnect the start capacitor, your motor will run. But it's still the wrong motor for your project as it has a very low duty cycle

Originally Posted by alloy2

Reconnect the start capacitor, your motor will run. But it's still the wrong motor for your project as it has a very low duty cycle

I remember seeing one of those black boxes. I probably tossed it, or it is in my ferris scrap boxes.

I assume when you say low duty you mean after I use it for a while it will just turn off till it cools down?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by alloy2

If you wind a string around the pulley and give it a good pull to get the motor spinning then turn on the power it will run without the capacitor.

Just like starting an old lawnmower. I might give it a try. thanks

Look what I found at the bottom of the bread maker shell. Pretty sure this is the capacitor that was attached. Even though it is marked 220V.

So alloy2 how does everything connect up? Your pic helped but in my photo E & F go in but do not continue out.

Would A & B be 110V in? and C & D just make a loop through the capacitor back into the motor?

I decided to try the way I asked about in my above post. Works great. I know this is a light duty motor so if it burns out I will come to that problem when it does. The step down pully turns at just the speed I want.

New question. I trimmed a cord off of a VCR to do the test. It is a three prong. I know the ground is the big prong. should I just attach the ground wire to the motor body or part of the frame?

Originally Posted by cyberdan

I decided to try the way I asked about in my above post. Works great. I know this is a light duty motor so if it burns out I will come to that problem when it does. The step down pully turns at just the speed I want.

New question. I trimmed a cord off of a VCR to do the test. It is a three prong. I know the ground is the big prong. should I just attach the ground wire to the motor body or part of the frame?

Yea you can secure the ground wire anywhere to the motor shell, have you connected the incoming AC power for the correct polarity.

Motor will run either way, but the wrong polarization makes the motor shell and anything metal that its connected to live ( HOT) which could result in death.

Originally Posted by alloy2

have you connected the incoming AC power for the correct polarity.Motor will run either way, but the wrong polarization makes the motor shell and anything metal that its connected to live ( HOT) which could result in death.

Very good question. I did all my testing with bare wire stuck in the white plastic plug. I did make sure not to touch any part of the motor assembly while it was plugged in. I checked and the motor did run either way when I plugged in the wires.

I have no way to tell which wire is hot with the cord I used. I will toss it in my wire bin. I do have laptop cords that are like the pic shown. So the wide spade matches the square plug on the other end. Is this the hot wire?

Gotta be extra careful today, very rainy today and my workshop is the back half of my greenhouse. (very dry on the workshop side)

Wire color codes on offshore are confusing, for North America black is hot, white neutral with green to ground.

Once you have the power connected with the motor running keep the ground wire disconnected then with your multi meter place one probe onto the motor shell with the other to the green ground.

If polarization is incorrect your meter will show the motor shell is hot.

The method of testing mentioned above will only be reliable if the wall receptacle has been wired correctly.

Handy gizmo for new house purchase or those who rent.

Originally Posted by alloy2

Wire color codes on offshore are confusing, for North America black is hot, white neutral with green to ground.

Once you have the power connected with the motor running keep the ground wire disconnected then with your multi meter place one probe onto the motor shell with the other to the green ground.

If polarization is incorrect your meter will show the motor shell is hot.

I will be buying a multi meter today at Harbor Freight. I found one on feeBay and started to order then remembered there is a new Harbor Freight in town. It is a dollar cheaper and I do not have to wait one week.

Harbor Freight also has both tools you recommended for $4.99 each. But I think the multimeter can be used many different ways.

I am pretty sure my greenhouse/workshop is wired correctly even though I did all the wiring my self. (two on/off switches and 4 plug outlet all connected to a heavy duty extension cord I plug into an outside box on my home) Never had any problems. But I will also take inside and test in my office.