Experienced Scrapper
Assuming no rollback what would the ideal trailer for automobiles look like. What size? Would it have metal floors? Rails or no rails? Winch and what size? What type of ramp? I tried search and did not find much specific information and have used a 16 foot trailer with sides using a tractor and boom pole. Obviously can't carry tractor with me. Would like to see some pics.
Experienced Scrapper
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I would personally go with the solid floor, so you can use it for smaller items as well as cars.
Put a winch in the front to pull cars on.
Defiantly a dual axle, a single axle will not handle a car. Think about the biggest vehicle you will want to haul with it and buy according to that.
CMHN Recycling
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Well, I don't have a picture of mine from the front or with cars but what I'd recommend is a 20' dual axle tilt bed. Dual axle has more capacity and handles much better. Rails would be ok but I don't have them. You really want pockets for building walls if you plan on hauling general scrap. It should come with D-rings on each corner but make sure. They're essential for chaining your cars down. Winch - buy the best quality you can. Trust me on this one - this is not an area to "get by". I tried and broke the winch first time out. Get a 12,000 lb pull MINIMUM. Tilt - if I had it to do over, I'd get a power tilt. I've got the wood floor and don't really regret not getting metal. I think I get better footing with wood which for me far offsets the advantages of metal.
(edit) mine is like the 2nd picture.
People may laugh at me, but that's ok. I laugh all the way to the bank.
Experienced Scrapper
Thanks for thoughts and pics. I assume that supports and frame for winch would be added or welder afterwards.
Unless you find a car hauler that already has a winch. I see them on Craigslist quite often. If you decide to search for one that way, do a search for "wench". It's amazing how many people misspell winch.Originally Posted by metaljacket
The trailer I borrow is similar to the one below. When I get more money I plan to get one like it.
Having used a trailer with drop ramps and ramps that slide under the trailer, I would go with drop. Lot less hassle. Don't know if all trailers have this, but this particular one , the ramps slide on a round bar and lets you adjust the width to load anything from a full size truck to an ATV.
Has drop legs which is nice when you're loading something heavy and don't want your trucks @$$ in the air.
Also has dovetail to lessen the angle. I've run riding mowers up it with no problems.
Only thing I wish this one had was a chain tool box or tray. (and a winch, or wench)
It's rated at 14,000 lbs.
Very solid and hauls the skid steer and attachments with no problems. Couldn't do that very well with an open floor.
Also has stake pockets to add sides if the need arises. Doesn't have D rings though. They made up for that by welding a rub bar the entire length on both sides that incorporate the stake pockets. Works so far.
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idahoscrapper has the right idea, before i got a rollback a trailer just like he shows made me a good bit of cash, also as a previous poster mentioned if you decide to add a winch get the biggest baddest name brand (warn, ramsey, ect.) one you can afford it will pay off in the long run, and also a good deep cycle battery.
i had a winch like the one in the craigslist ad below and it pulled like a beast for over 2 years you can go bigger on the winch but they get MUCH more expensive the higher you go, i cant speak to other brands but that warn 9000lb i had pulled more than rated capacity on a few occasions, and when it finally broke the motor and gears where fine it actually twisted itself in half and broke the case, the motor is still working in another winch my buddy has.
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/2689428863.html
that warn 9000lb pulled the ramp truck in the picture below about 45ft up a hill w/ two flat tires when i drug it out of the woods.
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As long as I'm dreaming, here is what I'd have with a big dualie pulling it.
P & M Recycling - Specializing in E-Waste Recycling.
If you enjoy your freedom, thank a vet.
Experienced Scrapper
Is there a problem winching a car without tires and just on the hubs onto the trailer with the ramps shown above. Looks like that could be problematic?
Winch I would go with a ramsey...they have a Lifetime Warranty on them.
I doubt it would be an issue, but you could lay a short 2x10 or 2x12 down.
Which would be good to keep with the trailer anyways. Never know when you need to block something or whatever.
•Limited 1 year for industrial winches
•Limited Lifetime for automotive winches (1 year for electrical components).
With my luck, whatever I break wouldn't be covered. Never owned a winch so I don't know what is the common wear part or part most likely to give up.
I do have a 4k Warn hoist I need to do something with.
Experienced Scrapper
Idaho, how long is the trailer in the pic that you posted. length of trailer and length of dovetail. I see many trailers like this but most have to 3500 lb. axles but I noticed that the one shown has 7500lb axles. Makes it nice if you have to haul heavy equipment.
Metal Recycling Entrepreneur
Great question! I just recently purchased a used car trailer somewhat like the metal trailer in the pic posted here and it scares me to death. I was told it was a homemade trailer although you cant really tell, dont get me wrong it looks great and all but what scares me is i recently hauled an old chevy impala or caprice i forgot which one it was but anyway i loaded it backwards because that was the easiest way to load it but when i started going down the road i was just about to get into it(go fast) when it started fishtailing real bad(whew! I was scared and im a truckdriver) so i decided to slow down below 45 miles per hour and it was still fishtailing, i was on my way to the junk yard by the way but the swaying got so bad i actually had to pull into a parking lot unload the car and load it back again(nose first) I thought this would fix the problem but it still continued to sway, fishtail whatever you want to call it. Upon reading up on it on the internet i realized that i probably should've had more weight towards the tongue of the trailer, so today i hauled a heavy(maybe 5000lbs) range rover for a lady and i loaded it further towards the tongue of the trailer but not too far or the landing gear would be too close to the ground long story long lol, this time it didn't sway on me not even once but i was still scared from my previous experience.
“If I had eight hours to chop down a tree, I’d spend six sharpening my axe.”
Abraham Lincoln
http://junkcarbuyersraleighnc.com
Yea you want some weight in the front of the trailer...if not...its not pretty.
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That's called "the tail wagging the dog". There is a small anti-sway bar you can buy for your trailer to keep it from doing that. Get them from the camper store.
http://www.autoanything.com/towing/7...6-001b2166becc
Metal Recycling Entrepreneur
Ok thanks, i sure will. By the way...Are they easy to install?
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Just like a Christmas toy, some assembly required.Just attach to your trailer frame and ball mount for a secure ride you can count on. Weld-on tab allows left-hand use or use without weight distribution hitch
http://mrtruck.net/wdh.htm
Here's also one of the safest ways to control your trailer, I used these when I hauled travel trailers for a living. I could haul a 35-37' t.t. with a good 3/4 ton truck with that style of hitch, and would not have any tail wagging even when a semi would pass you. You could steer the truck one-handed.
Last edited by Mechanic688; 11-08-2011 at 09:01 PM.
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That sway happens when there isnt enuff weight on the ball. WHen you load the car backwards with the motor hangind past the rear wheels of the trailer it gives you a light tongue weight on the trailer. This will cause the sway. the setup mechanic is talking about is more then just sway control. It also is load leveling system that transfers some of the weight up and threw the chasis of the tow vehicle. Almost everyone I know who tail drags a camper uses this system and you would be amazed the direfernce it makes on the level of the tow vehicle with and without it on.
I don't know. Did a Google image search till I found one similar. I'd guess that is 16 or 18 feet.
If I remember tomorrow I'll get a picture of the trailer I use and measurements. I recall it being an 18 footer, but I don't know the measurement of the deck and dovetail.
When you buy yours, I would go with 7k axles. I'd rather have too much capacity versus not enough and folding axles like horseshoes. I used to haul a 24k gooseneck. A pair of 12k axles is pretty stout. No matter what I did, I couldn't overload it.
Last edited by IdahoScrapper; 11-09-2011 at 12:59 AM.
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