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Man i am telling you just like the other guy something is done wrong to it.I know people with setups like yours and they get 20mpg like it nothing and thats with a automatic so a stick is 2-3 better mpg right anyway.With your mods i am telling you high teens should be no problem and with all of the black smoke and all of that.That equals your money going into the air because black smoke is unburned fuel.If it was tuned just right it wouldn't smoke hardly at all ever.
Thank you..someone who agrees.Quote:
Originally Posted by Focker
thats a really nice truck man. me personally i work out of a soccer mom van lol. with a truck with that much power im not surprised it gets 12 mpg but i guess your making alot of money so it doesnt matter i wouldnt be able to spare that i have 2 other personal cars to pay for.
Having a turned up diesel that will lay down 900-1100 lb ft of torque at the rear wheels is not necessary for pulling a trailer. This is my personal truck too and soiled up diesels is a hobby/side venture of mine. If you can tell me what's "wrong" with it I'll listen. If you all would listen you could learn a thing or to and maybe earn my respect. As I said at least once it only smokes when I rail on it and I'm ok with that. I drive it hundreds of miles a week without any smoke other than an occasional haze pulling a hill or maybe a small puff taking off in 2nd. It doesn't smoke during normal driving. And whoever told you a bigger turbo is better on fuel mileage needs to pass that stuff around! Bigger turbos are slower to spool this you don't get much if any bottom end power from them. Mine doesn't light til about 2100 rpm which is highway cruising rpm for this pig. It's a dog taking off and accelerating until you get in 4th gear and then it's a rocket ship. I don't want it stock, it was stock when I got it and it was a freaking turd. Now it runs really good and I'm happy with it. I've had over a dozen Cummins diesels and for what it does I don't think 12-13 mpg is that bad. Most the other ones of mine only got 14 or so pulling trailer around town and they weighed a lot less than this one and were 3.55 geared single wheel trucks. The one I had before this one was real easy on fuel towing but I didn't like the truck itself.
I'm happy with it and it is paid for and makes me money. That's really all that matters. There's nothing wrong with it that's causing poor fuel mileage I've been through the whole thing. I'm not out to get awesome fuel mileage if I was I'd have a 2wd 5 or 6 speed with 3.55 gears and auxillary overdrive and a $700 set of injectors custom made along with some other mods. But I don't want that.
Paperwork I keep in the file box:
Titles
Bill of sale forms
Receipts from the yards I sell to
Current pricin sheets the yards give me
Flyers I may put up at places
Forms the scrapyard has me fill out for vehicles
Receipts of stuff I buy like tools supplies etc.
All of this stuff I like to keep handy and organized. Just my way of doing things.
Ok if you like burning all of your money in fuel it doesn't matter to me lol.
But you missing the point.
What do diesels love Fuel and air give them both they make a load of power.But give it to them right they make a load of power and get good mpg also.But hey if you happy then be it.Just trying to help you save you some money.
I will be up that way tomorrow.
I understand what you're saying believe me I really do! But I have owned this thing since it was stock. It got the same fuel mileage then as it does now. The only difference is it ran horrible then and runs awesome now. I have changed the timing (which I think was retarded when i got it) now it is advanced 18*. 16* is supposedly peak for best balance of power/economy/reliability on stock headgasket and head bolts. 18* adds a little more power which is more pressure in the combustion chamber but I've put a new head gasket and bolts on it since and they are torqued accordingly. The turbo is upgraded significantly and the exhaust manifold I ported along with the turbo. It has an extremely generous air filter, over twice the surface area of stock and a better filter media. The exhaust is still 3.5" but no muffler or cat, so that is sufficient enough, I'd like 4 or 5" but believe it or not too little backpressure can hurt even a turbo diesel (doesn't matter which side of the fence you stand on that issue, it's proven in the competition industry, call Borg-Warner and ask them). The injectors are stock with 75hp nozzles. Not exactly overkill just a nice upgrade. The injection pump I did open up a lot, however, with as low boost as it normally sees, you will know if it's getting too much fuel as it will smoke. As stated, it does not smoke during normal driving so the air/fuel mixture is fine. Since a diesel throttles by fuel not air, if it was fueling too much it would either smoke (low boost) or it would start building boost and making more power, which it does neither. So that's all I can tell you there. It is just a big heavy somewhat non-aerodynamic vehicle with a lot of rolling resistance and gears that are a too low for good economy on the highway (gear ratio will make almost no difference at all around town, but I do drive some highway usually 10-15 miles at a time).
Call me tomorrow morning, I'd like to meet up with you. My schedule is going to be somewhat open depending what time of the day and I might be down in Seymour at some point as well.
Yall dont need to meet up because you will just argue like you're doing now lol! Hey listen tell me if this is true or not or if you dont know dont answer, but one day i was pumping fuel and me and another guy engaged in a conversation about fuel consumption and he told me that if you use premium fuel and 50 weight oil then you will cut your fuel consumption in half, he told me this about 3 weeks ago right after i got my oil changed lol but tell me is this true? Have anyone ever heard of it?
I've never heard of that exact formula. It's pretty much proven that most all engines run better and more efficiently with premium fuel. Depending on the engine, how old it is and the weather outside I don't know if I'd be putting 50 weight oil in my vehicle or not, but 50 weight would cut back on some friction which would help efficiency also. I wouldn't say that the combined efforts would cut fuel consumption in half, but might make a difference maybe 10-20% difference in fuel mileage (keep in mind the price difference of premium, although its a lot better for the engine and the engine will potentially last longer when ran on premium).
On our circle track race car we ran 5-30. We ran it for 2 1/2 years with no breakdowns. Most car engines now days don't know what to do with premium fuel, Doesn't give you one iota more power, just a bigger hole in your wallet. I think those drag cars are running a 0 grade oil because of the tight tolerances inside the motor. 50 wt. would be like molasses in the winter on a cold motor, twice as hard to turn over till it got warmed up. There's your friction.
Bigblue,
Something I don't quite understand and I want to make sure I do before I make final decision on trailer. You indicated that the pulley in the picture could be put on in seconds with a pin of some kind but in the picture it looks like it is welded on. Also when the pulley is not used or connected what do you use to feed the cable? Hope that makes sense.
Agreed. I can never remember which way it goes which grades are thicker and which are thinner oils LOL But I agree with what you're saying, on all of it. The old vehicles need premium more than newer ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic688
The L shaped frame and pulley (aka my hoist) do pin- on to the trailer. The welds you're seeing are not welding it to the trailer. There's a piece of angle iron (like a foot) welded to the bottom of the rear/vertical section of the hoist frame, that sits down on the trailer deck for stability and positioning. The front end of the hoist pins onto a receiver hitch like piece which is welded to the trailer also. The receiver on the trailer is the "male" part and the hoist is the "female" part so you can't really see the trailer side of this coupler.Quote:
Originally Posted by metaljacket
This hoist is something I built for when I want to cut a catalytic converter off underneath a car I can pin this onto the trailer real quick and use it to route the cable over to lift the car vertically. The hoist normally rides in the bed of the truck and is not used in any way shape or form for loading vehicles. The winch has a roller fairlead (4 rollers arranged in a rectangle to guide the cable onto the winch drum/spool). The line simply goes from the winch, through the roller fairlead and the hook I attach to the vehicle via a set of wrecker hooks, they are like giant fishing hooks, coupled with a tear drop shaped eyelet connected to the hooks with chain. You can use the hooks to grab onto the car's suspension components and they also have little T hooks on the harness to go in frame slots if you prefer. They are a must have unless you like crawling under a car on the ground trying to finaggle a way to attach a chain to a car...
Yes Mine has a lot of turbo lag... diesels make a lot of low end torque with or without a turbo. Changing the fueling and turbo change the power curve dramatically. Mine went from having decent low end power and mediocre middle range and horrible top end power, to now it has decent low end (better than before due to the timing adjustment and some fuel mods), fair middle range and awesome top end. You couldn't dream of passing someone with it before and now it's safe to pass as long as you can cram some RPM and light the turbo real quick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Kringle
Bigblue,
Does the pulley stay attached most of the time. If not do you hook directly to car or machinery being loaded? Looks to me like the pulley would also help keep the cable centered.
No I leave the whole hoist assembly in the truck unless I need to lift a car. The weight and load of a car on the other end of the winch cable would move the cable wherever it wants, unless there was a lot of downward pull on the pulley like when hoisting a car up. Otherwise the cable would barely ride on the pulley and jump off at will when loading a car.
And to all others, FYI, I just checked my fuel mileage yesterday on the truck, it is 12.88 mpg, and due to the larger tires I have to add 9% to that figure to compensate for the odometer being off from the larger tires. So it equals out to 14 mpg. I'm not sure why it's better now than it was, it had been 12-13 corrected, and had seen 14 at times. 14 is nothing to get real excited about but again for the setup and what i'm doing with it, I don't expect any better than 14 and I'm content with that. It's better than 12. Any improvement is welcome. If anyone else has a 1 ton 4wd dually with 4.10's and their truck and trailer tips the scales at almost 12,000 lbs empty like mine, and is getting more than 14 mpg, it would be almost unbelievable. I know theres two things men lie the most about: pecker length and fuel mileage in their diesels. I won't lie about either, have nothing to be ashamed of on either number. You know the fuel mpg and I won't discuss the other on here LOL
Well the mpg is totally bad but does still suck lol.
My truck weighs 6500+