If it works as good as the blue one like it they do great.
If it works as good as the blue one like it they do great.
Born to think, destine to succeed.
I just got my stripper yesterday. It works well with a little adjustment. You still have to peel the coating off but it take the aggrevation out of trying to do it with a razor knife. I wish they made a cheap one that took the insulation off too but i'm happy so far with this.
Mike,
What is the purpose for the drill in this setup? Does it grab hold of the while, and run it through the cutting blade automatically as long as it is running?
Nice little setup...how long would you say it took you to go through the wire?
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I had around 50 degaussing cables took about hour and a half while bsing
"Profit begins when you buy NOT when you sell." {quote passed down to me from a wise man}
Now go beat the copper out of something, Miked
There is a shaft that extends through the frame. The stripper comes with a handle that attaches to the shaft providing the rotation that pulls the wire through. The drill takes the place of the handle to power the strpper.
The stripper works quickly. I have found that the larger guage wire is by for more productive. Some of the small guage wire is easy to strip, it depends on the insulation. But it doesn't make sense to strip the small guage unless you don't have anything better to do.
One of my favorite things to strip is coax. If you set the stripper correctly you can cut through to the center conductor in one pass, not difficult to do. Warning on coax all the cable tv and dish coax have copper coated steel wire for the center conductor so best to chech with a magnet from a computer hard drive before wasteing time strpping it. Mike.
I bought one off eBay this past week. The one I got looks just like the one posted but works great with a regular 3/8 drill. I even took out my cheap ryobi drill, set it on the slower speed and it works great. I am glad I didnt buy the half inch drill before it arrived.
My wire stripper is my new favorite tool!
I'm glad so many have found this thread helpful. I just wish I had a whole bunch of number 1 insulated to strip. Next project is the hammermil and seperation table. Mike.
The only thing I have noticed is the little knurls on the v shaped wheels are not grabbing like they first did. The edges seem to of wore down. I've only done around 20lb of wire so far. It sure makes stripping wire mindless. I usually do it for a bout 20 min while i'm trying to figure out something more productive to do.
I just ordered one. Can't wait to get it. Hope it was worth it!
UPDATE: After stripping about 100 lbs of #1, the crank has worn a groove in the shaft, moving the crank inward and making it hit the adjustable knob on top. No amount of wd-40 and a wrench can get it to move. It has an allen screw, but loosening it doesn't make any difference either. Does anyone know if you have to take the shaft out to attach the drill? That would solve everything if that's the case. We haven't used it with the drill yet.
Last edited by LadyScrappers; 05-15-2012 at 05:13 PM.
I never did attach the handle since I knew I wanted to use a drill to power it. I did not remove the shaft that the handle attachs to but just put the drill on and tightened it up. If you are having difficulty removing the handle(if I understand the problem) heat is always a good place to start. It that fails then I would attempt to remove the shaft completely and use an angle grinder to cut the handle off the shaft. Mike.
Heat will expand the aluminum handle allowing it to slip off the steel shaft. Be sure to back out the set screw and line the hole up with the flat part of the shaft before you start.
If it wasn't for the $ in $crap, it would just be.....
Thanks for the heat tip! I put a hairdryer to it with lots of WD-40 and it worked like a charm! Off to more wirestripping...
Hairdryer might work but I would expect you will need to use at least a small propane torch. Concentrate the heat on the handle not on the shaft. The objective is to get the handle to expand there by making the hole larger.
If all else fails you should be able to remove the shaft from the frame with the handle still attached. You could then place the shaft vertically between the jaws of your vice. This would allow the shaft to dangle while the handle rests ontop of the vice jawa. Using a drift you can now push the shaft from the handle. Best of luck and let us know how it works out. Mike.
Yea, I use gloves and guide the wire by "pulling" back. I have already mentioned but the difference is the insulation even more that the size of the wire. On some of the smaller stuff I run it thru and then run it thru a second time cutting on the oposite side. This makes getting the insulation off much easier with some types of wire.
I find I have to re-tighten the chuck of the drill on the shaft. It gets loose easily. I have considered putting a couple of flat spots on the shaft in hopes it would keep the drill tight. Mike
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