Scrapping Monitors & TV's (Plastic & Glass) - Page 2

Oops thanks for telling me that! I will quit breaking them, there is a scrap yard that pays low but they take ANY scrap in their light iron load including glass. I will toss a few here and there in my large light iron loads haha they don't seem to complain and I will try not to break them when doing so hoping they dispose of them properly. The landfill might not be aware its leaded glass as I was not either...also the landfill is technically closed it's a collection center now and is sorted and shipped off in different directions we do not dump into the ground here anymore but rather into dumpsters (including the broken leaded glass).



I will certainly hold onto my LCD screens I do not even think they are glass but I can deff see a potential future market even cracked or broken.

Here is the HD projection TV I tore down today:



The projectors are the only small tubes in these things luckily and can easily go with my light iron, but I did not realize between the tube and lens is filled with what appears to be some sort of odorless clear oil? Maybe mineral oil? I dumped it into the waste oil collector that the guy down the road heats his shop with:



These are the three boards I got out of the TV, appears to be two low grade boards and I think the one on the left is considered a higher grade board?



This is a close up of what I think is a higher grade board then the others is this correct? Same grade as computer motherboards?

Right here is a good reason we tell our newer members to do some reading back thru the older posts, all of your questions so far could have been answered by you.

#1- never a good idea to "sneak" leaded glass into the local scrapyard, at my yard it would get me banned from there.
#2- a few people have posted already about the cooling mineral oil behind the tubes.
#3- if you clean those metal boxes off the green board you will upgrade it to a mid-grade at around 1.50-2.50 a lb. The brown board is .10-.20 a lb. and you can clean the goodies off.
#4- The coils you are unwinding is varnished wire, anything wound is varnished or it would short out.
#5- Next pic I think your looking at the 2 smaller transformers, those go in my motor bucket, but some yards buy them separately.
#6- Last pic. that is a flyback or hi voltage transformer and the copper is sealed inside, my yard buys them but your milage may vary.

here is part of the insides.

I found this daughter board in an old computer with lots of gold including the pins inside the sockets, after I remove all that I might be able to get .10-.20 for the socketless/fingerless board:

Wouldn't you rather have 2.00 - 3.00 a lb. for these style boards, work smart. Check out our buyers. Save them till you get enough to fill some sort of a box.

these small daughter boards are considered mid-grade right? Or high grade?

It depends on the buyer, they grade some boards differently.

Are the high voltage flybacks worth any more then small and medium transformers?

Same price at my yard.

http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/elect...rds-parts.html

There might be something here you might be able to use to help answer some questions;
http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/scrap...t-so-good.html

Nothing of value in those can caps.
here is a posting from some of our members;

I've stripped about 500 computers in the last 4 months and even then it's not worth my time and effort to collect the gold and try to process it myself. Out of all that I have stripped, I would have probably dropped between 1-2 ounces of gold from all the processors, pins, flatpacks, connectors, and finger boards. That would be all great, however to get that gold I would have to handle hazardous materials, deal with deadly gas fumes, and wonder where and how I'm going to dispose of the environmental sludge waste. There is a whole other forum dedicated to doing this type of refining and it's not for everyone. I looked, lurked, read books, and watched videos for 8 months. I finally decided to leave the refining to those that have the ability to do so, and just sell escrap at about 60% of what i would have made refining the gold and other precious metals.

Good luck to you if you decide to refine the scrap on your own (and I'm being serious, not sarcastic).

I live rural making it difficult to obtain great lots of e-scrap. Since i started refining my own I have recovered 3.85 lbs of silver along with 1.5 troy ounces of gold.

It is better to sell your boards, the labor is intensive, the chemicals and acids are expensive then you have the waste to deal with.

I must admit though I have learned a lot about metals I never knew before and find it very interesting that you can take a solid metal into a liquid or powder as a salt then back into a solid or even a gaseous state and back into a solid or liquid.

For this that wish to learn more on refining precious metals there is a good forum for this located here
where you can read what others are doing or ask questions when you run into a problem.

Gold Refining Forum.com • Index page

Regards
Gustavus

http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/elect...y-classes.html

Ok, here is my viewpoint on gold refining. SELL THE BOARDS WHOLE!!!!!!!!! I know, I know, "LOOK IT"S GOLD!!!!! OMG" It's very easy to get gold fever. Just because there is a yellow color on a board does not mean a million bucks. And I it's not as easy as dumping a board into some chemicals and poof, a block of gold comes out. From my understanding, the amount of volume you have to have is enormous. Your not going to make any money on 50 lbs of motherboards. I'm sorry, but that's the truth. As my board buyer told me, the profit margin gets smaller and smaller the farther you get away from the source of the material (Refiner being at the bottom). You will make more money selling them whole than attempting to refine them yourself. I'm not trying to be mean.

The speakers are shred. The capacitors are shred. Please use the search function up top. Most of the things you have asked here have already been answered multiple times.

Ok thanks, and I read only the magnets are worth anything on the speakers they can't be mixed with motors and transformers. The only other thing I think my yard will accept with the motors besides transformers might be magnetrons from microwaves.

I'm sure even selling a jar of strictly gold fingers and pins would yield more money then leaving them on boards and selling the boards at their complete scrap price but if your saying otherwise...there are so many grades of boards it would take me forever to have enough of one kind to cash them in or cash them all as mixed and make way less. That is where I am at now...sell the boards or sell buckets of transformers, IC chips, etc.

Back on the tube subject, every once and a while when a tube does get cracked or knocked over and starts hissing is that releasing gas or vacuum pressure?? Just wondering

there are so many grades of boards it would take me forever to have enough of one kind to cash them in or cash them all as mixed and make way less.

I put together a mixed box with like boards together, ram goes in a sandwich baggie, hard drive boards I use a big rubber band to tie them together, etc. The buyer sorts them out and pays accordingly, they don't pay you one price for all different categories. Unless their a rip-off yard. That's why I stay with our great buyers here.

Originally Posted by PinkFloydEffect

That's pretty good for plastic! High-temp only??

Hey did hi-voltage transformers get the name flyback because you fly back against the wall when you get shocked? lol

If your lucky it'll just fly you, if not it'll kill you. When in doubt, ground it out.
As far as the tube that is vacuum you are hearing.
Couple of pointers here.
http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/scrap...-possible.html

I read through some of it, I understand the grounding but I do not understand what you are touching to drain it. Snip the red wire from the fly-back that goes into the top of the tube and then what touch your screwdriver to the snipped wire coming out of the fly-back??

I use a "jumper wire" with small alligator clips on each end, one end on part of the metal chassis or any metal that will act as a ground.
The other end I clip to the screwdriver and use that to "brush" across the connections of the can caps. on the bottom. Usually if the TV has not been plugged in awhile the "bleed-off resistors" will take care of the stray voltages.