Yup some valves are stainless, while others have hollow stems filled with sodium the latter generally used on aircraft and industrial engines.
Non stainless could be an exotic alloy worth checking into, these alloys came into use when UN-leaded gasoline came into use. There is a market for this alloy.
The springs as you all know are under tension held in place with that top cover and two keepers. I use a hammer to give the top washer a good rap between the valves the keepers will pop out making removal of the valve a snap.
Never rap the large washer to point towards you, if you do your going to wear a spring on your forehead. Sounds dangerous but in 40 years of practicing this have never worn a spring on my forehead and still -have both eyes.
If there are any studs, smack them sideways they snap off, your allowed a small percentage of steel and still get clean cast iron grade.
Works for aluminum heads as well, the only difference is that the valve seats have an insert that you have to remove.
I do not advocate using an angle grinder for cutting metal but in this instance it works to cut a slot on both the intake and exhaust inserts simultaneously. Once that slot has been cut the inserts virtually fall out.
With aluminum heads you will have to remove the iron studs, if your shy on tools double nutting - pal nut the stud.
Then you can remove the studs, otherwise buy a stud remover. A good vise grip will work but tends to get in the way most of the time.
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